Brand new clutch slipping... help
09-14-2009, 05:16 PM
#1
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Brand new clutch slipping... help Just installed a Zoom dual kevlar clutch and spec flywheel and now it slips under a load... just wondering if theres any possibility this would happen just in break in or what went wrong in the install. thanks
09-14-2009, 07:14 PM
#3
a new clutch should never slip. its possible you needed to install a shim behind the slave or you didnt use a big enough shim. are you didnt install the clutch disc backwards?
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09-14-2009, 09:56 PM
#8
off coarse i am assuming he is talking about an lt1 because of his sig and SN
for normal fork style clutches they make an adjustable pivot ball. not sure for those applications though. is the fork hitting the slave hard(like its hold the clutch even at a static position?
for normal fork style clutches they make an adjustable pivot ball. not sure for those applications though. is the fork hitting the slave hard(like its hold the clutch even at a static position?
09-14-2009, 11:44 PM
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Yea its a lt1 and i dunno i had a buddy help and he has put in many clutches.. but the fork we actually had to unbolt and bolt back up. do you guys think that if its loose it would cause this?
09-15-2009, 12:39 AM
#11
if the flywheel is thicker than what is normally used with that clutch then the PP fingers would be on the bearing/fork holding the clutch open. I would unbolt the slave and see if its bottomed and holding the clutch
as the clutch breaks-in or wears the PP finger will actaully move out and closer to the bearing which will cause slipping if there is no free space also
as the clutch breaks-in or wears the PP finger will actaully move out and closer to the bearing which will cause slipping if there is no free space also
09-15-2009, 08:33 AM
#12
Guys, there are no shims used behind the bearing in an LS1 and there is no need for this. You can buy an adjustable pivot but since the OP didn't reference this I would says use of one is doubtful. That being said, our flywheels are built to OE specification and thus I am very doubtful that this is relative to an issue with the flywheel. I have a few questions to help us all better understand the situation:
What is the clutch rated to handle relative to torque output?
What kind of torque is your car making?
Are you certain that there is no contamination on the disc (oil, hydraulic fluid, grease)?
Where is your engagement point relative to pedal travel?
Let me know these answers and I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks!
What is the clutch rated to handle relative to torque output?
What kind of torque is your car making?
Are you certain that there is no contamination on the disc (oil, hydraulic fluid, grease)?
Where is your engagement point relative to pedal travel?
Let me know these answers and I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks!
09-15-2009, 03:28 PM
#18
Well, as I remember it, the stock assembly didn't use an adjustable pivot ball. You can check this to see if your car's pivot has been upgraded or not. As for the slave there is no real way to "check" it without replacing it. The point is that you should insure that there is no pressure being kept on the diaphragm fingers when the clutch pedal is released. If there is then it is effectively reducing the clamp-load of the clutch kit which is allowing it to slip.
If you can check the stack height of the assembly (measured from the mounting surface on the back of the crank to the diaphragm finger peak) I will be happy to let you know if it has the correct geometry.
If you can check the stack height of the assembly (measured from the mounting surface on the back of the crank to the diaphragm finger peak) I will be happy to let you know if it has the correct geometry.
09-15-2009, 10:49 PM
#19
why don't you losen the slave cylinder from the bellhousing, then make sure that you can push it all the way back down to the surface it bolts to by hand. Don't pull it down with the nuts, just take the nuts off and push it all the way down by hand.
If it pushes all the way down to the surface it mounts against by hand that will tell you if the piston in the slave is returning all the way and the fork is installed correctly. I've had a few LT1 cars give me a fit trying to get the fork postioned correctly into the throw out bearing. Looking from the side of the bellhousing the fork should be just about be flush with the slaves mounting surface also. If its positioned incorrectly, it will be sticking out past that surface which could cause the pp to be dissengaged a bit when the slave is bolted down...but you would have to pull it down with the nuts to accomplish that.
I don't do a lot of lt1 stuff these days, but atleast thats something easy to look at and try without pulling the tranny.
Also, you did use the bolts supplied with the spec flywheel, correct? If you try to use GM bolts with that spec flywheel they will torque against the shoulder before they actually clamp the pp completly to the flywheel. Its so close its hard to notice when you're doing it, but if it doesn't pull that pp all the way down you won't have some or your clamping load as well...don't ask me how I learned that lesson lol
If it pushes all the way down to the surface it mounts against by hand that will tell you if the piston in the slave is returning all the way and the fork is installed correctly. I've had a few LT1 cars give me a fit trying to get the fork postioned correctly into the throw out bearing. Looking from the side of the bellhousing the fork should be just about be flush with the slaves mounting surface also. If its positioned incorrectly, it will be sticking out past that surface which could cause the pp to be dissengaged a bit when the slave is bolted down...but you would have to pull it down with the nuts to accomplish that.
I don't do a lot of lt1 stuff these days, but atleast thats something easy to look at and try without pulling the tranny.
Also, you did use the bolts supplied with the spec flywheel, correct? If you try to use GM bolts with that spec flywheel they will torque against the shoulder before they actually clamp the pp completly to the flywheel. Its so close its hard to notice when you're doing it, but if it doesn't pull that pp all the way down you won't have some or your clamping load as well...don't ask me how I learned that lesson lol
Last edited by Jonathan@Tick; 09-15-2009 at 10:55 PM.