I think I've made the decision to convert to M6
09-16-2009, 04:49 PM
#1
I think I've made the decision to convert to M6 Like the title says, I am ready to make the plunge. Please don't post the following.
"Should have bought a M6"
"It's cheaper to buy a M6"
"Auto's are more consistent at the track"
I have religiously looked through the A4-->M6 thread. I am fully aware of what needs to be done, and how to do it. I just want to verify a few things. Please tell me if I am right on these things.
1. M6 PCM: it's not required, because my current 2001 A4 PCM can be reprogrammed.
2. M6 Wiring harness will make the following options work. Cruise, Reverse-Light, Reverse lock-out, and CAGS (Will be disabled quickly) without pigtails.
3. Once you cut the Unibody, and included mounting bolts locations, you would not be able to convert it back to a Auto easily.
4. I have LS1 Edit (purchased in 2002), and would be able to change it from A4, M6 ECM wise.
And of course, if anyone could help push me to the darside of the fence by saying something like "I'm glad I did it" or "Never looked back when it was done"
Thanks,
Chris
"Should have bought a M6"
"It's cheaper to buy a M6"
"Auto's are more consistent at the track"
I have religiously looked through the A4-->M6 thread. I am fully aware of what needs to be done, and how to do it. I just want to verify a few things. Please tell me if I am right on these things.
1. M6 PCM: it's not required, because my current 2001 A4 PCM can be reprogrammed.
2. M6 Wiring harness will make the following options work. Cruise, Reverse-Light, Reverse lock-out, and CAGS (Will be disabled quickly) without pigtails.
3. Once you cut the Unibody, and included mounting bolts locations, you would not be able to convert it back to a Auto easily.
4. I have LS1 Edit (purchased in 2002), and would be able to change it from A4, M6 ECM wise.
And of course, if anyone could help push me to the darside of the fence by saying something like "I'm glad I did it" or "Never looked back when it was done"
Thanks,
Chris
09-16-2009, 04:53 PM
#2
FormerVendor
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Well, not sure why you think need to cut the unibody for teh swap, as you don't need to.
If looking for support...you came to teh right place...we are all about manual's in here...
09-17-2009, 07:44 AM
#7
Not all of them would work. You need to re-wire the Reverse Lights in the Car to make them work, the stock Wiring at the moment comes from the Connector on the Auto Shifter. That and you need to put the Cruise Disengage Switch on the Clutch Petal.
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09-17-2009, 01:36 PM
#13
If i had the space and the time to spare i would have done mine so that being said, i paid someone to do it. All I needed to do is buy the parts: low mileage T56 with the sensors, shifter and the mount, LS7 clutch assembly, M6 pedals/pig tails to swap it from A4, M6 console, new pilot bearing, new master cylinder, new hydraulic cylinder, remote bleeder, drill mod, rear main seal and hptuners for my M6 tune.
Total cost was 3.5K dollars including labor but I recouped some of that from selling my A4 stuff. This was all done within three days.
Best mod evar IMO.
Total cost was 3.5K dollars including labor but I recouped some of that from selling my A4 stuff. This was all done within three days.
Best mod evar IMO.
09-17-2009, 01:51 PM
#15
Hey man, I did the swap myself and I do love banging gears. Sure it's not going to perform as well at the track bc of the rear end, but I still love it when rolling down the highway.
Don't buy an M6 harness, just use yours. All you have to do is cut the neutral safety switch wires (there are 6 of them). These are all the wires you need for it to run. Also you need a stock M6 trans cross-member.
The hardest part is getting the master cylinder in the right spot and lined up. I had to remove mine prob 10 times before it go to the point where I felt good with it.
I didn't hook up my skip shift, reverse lock-out or cruise. Only thing I think I will hook back up is the cruise.
Don't buy an M6 harness, just use yours. All you have to do is cut the neutral safety switch wires (there are 6 of them). These are all the wires you need for it to run. Also you need a stock M6 trans cross-member.
The hardest part is getting the master cylinder in the right spot and lined up. I had to remove mine prob 10 times before it go to the point where I felt good with it.
I didn't hook up my skip shift, reverse lock-out or cruise. Only thing I think I will hook back up is the cruise.
09-17-2009, 03:54 PM
#16
If i had the space and the time to spare i would have done mine so that being said, i paid someone to do it. All I needed to do is buy the parts: low mileage T56 with the sensors, shifter and the mount, LS7 clutch assembly, M6 pedals/pig tails to swap it from A4, M6 console, new pilot bearing, new master cylinder, new hydraulic cylinder, remote bleeder, drill mod, rear main seal and hptuners for my M6 tune.
Total cost was 3.5K dollars including labor but I recouped some of that from selling my A4 stuff. This was all done within three days.
Best mod evar IMO.
Total cost was 3.5K dollars including labor but I recouped some of that from selling my A4 stuff. This was all done within three days.
Best mod evar IMO.
