4l60e removal questions
#1
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4l60e removal questions
Ok so I am new to the f body scene. I bought a '00 z28 without 3rd and 4th gear for $3000. I have a buddy that does transmissions at the chevy house. He can't help remove it because he is getting married and is doing the planning thing. He can work on it in his down time at the shop but i have to get the tranny to his bench at work. I know my way around cars ok but all i have experience with is old chevy trucks. What is the bolt pattern on the bellhousing? I'm not at all used to it being this tight and when I put my K5 blazer on jack stands i can almost walk under it. Need a little help.
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Ok...perfect. I looked for a couple of pics on other websites but none quite that good. Guess I will be buying another long extension (or borrowing my buddy's 3 foot). After the old lady gets through school and actually contributing financially I can actually spend some money to do some upgrades. But at least it is faster than a mustang. Appreciate the help.
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Thanks for the help man. Normally I can get my buddy to help me with doing some of this stiff for the first time then i am good. This time however hes busy planning a wedding and he wants me to be in it! At least when I ask for a favor there aren't any penguin suits involved. I will definitely give you a shout when i can afford to get a built tranny like i want
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The only way to get to the bolts is pull the tranny crossmember to let the rear of the trans hang down and go after the bolts from the tailshaft area with your extensions. After the trans is out, with a hammer, tap some areas of the tunnel where the clearance is tight and then you will have more room during the install.
Last edited by 01ssreda4; 09-18-2009 at 03:11 PM.
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I already have the tranny completely hanging by the bellhousing and I can't even see the top two bolts. Any great ideas on something else I can do to get the tranny to hang lower? It makes it kinda hard to get to bolts you can't even see.
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You can get it out. You have to squeeze in towards the back to see them. Then go in with your extensions at a diagonal angle. So if the bolt is on the pass side, put your ratchet in from the drivers side to achieve a crossing angle. Put enough extensions on it till you can turn the ratchet without hitting anything. Also run a short socket, then swivel u joint, then extensions. You need the flexibility of the knuckle immediately after the socket. Also, turn it with one hand and stabilize the long shaft of extensions with your other hand or the socket will likely fall off
Last edited by 01ssreda4; 09-18-2009 at 03:11 PM.
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You have to position yourself to see them. You have to move around and find that sweet spot where you can see them
Last edited by 01ssreda4; 09-18-2009 at 03:13 PM.
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If your motor mounts are in good condition, the tranny may not move too much. I had to wedge a piece of wood between the floorpan and the tranny to get it to move far enough down so I could get access to the top one.
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ok now that is the kind of inspiration i was needing. I have a very small bottle jack that I can just stick on top of the tail section and jack up gently on the body (or down on the tranny). Hopefully all without tearing up motor mounts. Thanks guys.
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Be gentle though...Don't wanna go bending sheet metal or anything. From what I've heard, mine was pretty tight, usual play is about 6 inches, but mine didn't move at all.
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also helps if you stack a bunch of 3 inch extensions, they stay pretty strait unlike a swivel. but having a bunch of em stacked like that will let it wobble around quite a bit. the 12 o'clock bolt took me a solid 8 hours to get out, it DID NOT get put back in lol. i had to r&r the trans again a few weeks ago and i took my sweet time, pulled it in 3 1/2 hours by myself in a 1 car garage and didnt even get my clothes dirty.
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the first time you do it sucks bad and you will wish you paid someone to do it. after you figure it out and use a lift not so bad i think some people have even cried removing the 12 oclock bolt.