Anyone have any first hand experience with the new R series Hals?
#1
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Anyone have any first hand experience with the new R series Hals?
I was looking through the sponsors sites and ran into these new R series shock and the Hals is what everyone here seems to be recommending. So...I was wondering if anyone here is using them? What are your thoughts on them? Lastly, how come they dont make some for the rears? Will there be in the near future? Are the necessary for the rear since the R series are different from the regular fronts? Thanks
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I heard that you dont nee the rears, just get an air bag. Ive been wondering about the fronts too, from what ive heard they should be really sweet. what sponsor sells them?
#3
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Are you saying that rear Hals all together arent necessary or the R series that dont exist. Reason I ask, is because I was going to get the regular rears upon ordering the front R series. I never looked into an airbag, but for now, I just want to stick with the shocks. I think most of the sponsors sell them, but I dont think all of them have them up on their site...but Im sure any of them can get them. Hals is what everyone seems to be recommending me, but I havent seen any talk about the new R series. I wonder if I should go with those or just the regular fronts. Thanks
#4
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The R series are not recommended for street use, but I know people who run them without problems. I have the regular QA1's on mine. The difference is in the compression/rebound ratio. The R's are 90/10, the regular are 50/50. At the track you want the nose to come up fast and soft, then come down slow. If you set the regular QA1 soft it pops up real fast, but then drops back down just as fast. QA1 is supposed to be coming up with a dual adjustable shock by spring, it will be the hot ticket when it hits! I am happy with the regular QA1s, I still cut 1.6x short times all day long...
Ed
Ed
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I have had the R's on mine for about 500 miles now. Drivability is good. If you set the dampening up somewhat they seem to ride like my factory. I don't however Auto Cross or do any type hard handling. Only drag racing. At launch I do bounce a little much on number 1 setting. The car comes off the ground then when it comes down bounces back up a bit. A slightly higher setting should fix this.
I have the QA1 springs verses using my factory springs. I seem to get a little more noise over bumps. I think it's because the QA1s don't use a damper under the bottom portion of the spring. The factory springs would probably be a better choice for street although they have a slightly high rate and some possible loss of launch capability. As far as ride with the springs I can tell no difference. I have them set where the set load is identical to my factory springs.
You don't need the torsen bearing if you go with the QA1 springs. You do need the spanner wrench. If you use anti-seize lube on the lower washer/ring the adjustment ring turns easily. I failed to get the spanner wrench and bought one locally from an industrial supply house. I paid more than the $17 bucks but mine did work great and is probably of higher quality.
Weight savings is 4 1/2 pounds. Some have posted 7 pounds. Not sure how they arrived at that. Savings using the factory springs would be almost identical. The factory springs are 3/4 pounds lighter than the QA1 but you do have to used the factory perch. It also has to be machined to fit over the adjusting seat ring. I had mine professionally machined so I can go back to my factory springs should I determine the need.
I have the QA1 springs verses using my factory springs. I seem to get a little more noise over bumps. I think it's because the QA1s don't use a damper under the bottom portion of the spring. The factory springs would probably be a better choice for street although they have a slightly high rate and some possible loss of launch capability. As far as ride with the springs I can tell no difference. I have them set where the set load is identical to my factory springs.
You don't need the torsen bearing if you go with the QA1 springs. You do need the spanner wrench. If you use anti-seize lube on the lower washer/ring the adjustment ring turns easily. I failed to get the spanner wrench and bought one locally from an industrial supply house. I paid more than the $17 bucks but mine did work great and is probably of higher quality.
Weight savings is 4 1/2 pounds. Some have posted 7 pounds. Not sure how they arrived at that. Savings using the factory springs would be almost identical. The factory springs are 3/4 pounds lighter than the QA1 but you do have to used the factory perch. It also has to be machined to fit over the adjusting seat ring. I had mine professionally machined so I can go back to my factory springs should I determine the need.
#6
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I've got some Rs on the way from Summit now, I'll post results. Setting the Rs to 1 at the track would seem to be defeating the purpose. It'll be fun to try.