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Question: Are Callies Cranks non-twisted???

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Old 09-25-2009, 05:02 AM
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Default Question: Are Callies Cranks non-twisted???

Hey all Ive been looking for the answer for hours and I cant find it anywhere. There site has nothing about their forgin process. Im not talkin about Compstar by the way just the dragonslayer, magnum series cranks. I would like to use Lunati but so freaking expensive but the non twist is absolutly essential. Thanks!
Old 09-25-2009, 05:39 AM
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Call Callies!
What are you doing that makes this "absolutly essential"?
Old 09-25-2009, 06:58 AM
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....thats classified....
No jus kidding but it is an extreme duty LS engine with high Low end torque and power but also high endurence. So Im not really looking for crazy HP at a million rpms but to have an engine that can take hours and hours of punishment without even stressing it. Other than that I will have to say its
G-14 Classified
Old 09-25-2009, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by cobrala
Hey all Ive been looking for the answer for hours and I cant find it anywhere. There site has nothing about their forgin process. Im not talkin about Compstar by the way just the dragonslayer, magnum series cranks. I would like to use Lunati but so freaking expensive but the non twist is absolutly essential. Thanks!
Originally Posted by cobrala
....thats classified....
No jus kidding but it is an extreme duty LS engine with high Low end torque and power but also high endurence. So Im not really looking for crazy HP at a million rpms but to have an engine that can take hours and hours of punishment without even stressing it. Other than that I will have to say its
G-14 Classified
You wont break a DragonSlayer or Magnum.
And on your first quote u said in bold, if you are really building an engine to do what you said in the second quote then your limiting your budget too much.
Old 09-26-2009, 01:21 AM
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So If money were no object then you would say the Lunati is the way to go for this type of setup if Im hearing you right. Im just trying to keep the engine below 10K. A Lunati rotating assem. is 4K right there. I feel very comfortable with Lunati but I just want to make sure I get my money's worth and Im not paying for the brand
Old 09-26-2009, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by cobrala
So If money were no object then you would say the Lunati is the way to go for this type of setup if Im hearing you right. Im just trying to keep the engine below 10K. A Lunati rotating assem. is 4K right there. I feel very comfortable with Lunati but I just want to make sure I get my money's worth and Im not paying for the brand
A long block under 10k...
We need more info. Lets start with how many cubic inches?
Lets take a 427 for an example, if you wanna spin that to the moon and make great power thats going to cost more than 10k for a longblock.
I am building my 440, and just for the longblock (no oil pump, cam, lifters) just the compleat heads w/o rockers and a bottom rotating assembly and block i am a little over the 10k mark.

What you are trying to do a long block under 10k might be possible...
More information please...
Old 09-26-2009, 07:24 PM
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Yeah I guess Im being a little secretive but the engine is meant for endurance and strength even if that reduces the overall HP. This is what Im lookin at

LS1 383 (I dont want to grind on the block much)
Forged Crank, rods, pistions
Cam designed for high narrow torque band in the 3000-4500 range
High strength lifters, pushrods
spring upgrade for strength
Titanium retainers
Roller rockers (I havent decided on whether to go with shaft yet)
probably replacing the bronze valveguides with AFR metal ones
stainless valves
Fast intake 90mm maybe Im worried about losing torque at the low end

I may have forgotten something but the goal is to have a bullet proof engine and I want to keep the stock bore. The engine will run at mid RPM's but for hours...hours..hours. I have no desire for high rpms or high rpm power and torque. Like the tortoise and the hare Im building the slow consistent tortoise that can run forever....well almost
Old 09-27-2009, 04:58 AM
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Is this going in a boat? High rpm is what will destroy a crank, turning 3000-4500 all day can be done with a stock crank.
Old 09-27-2009, 05:37 AM
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Cool

Originally Posted by cobrala
Yeah I guess Im being a little secretive but the engine is meant for endurance and strength even if that reduces the overall HP. This is what Im lookin at

LS1 383 (I dont want to grind on the block much)
Forged Crank, rods, pistions
Cam designed for high narrow torque band in the 3000-4500 range
High strength lifters, pushrods
spring upgrade for strength
Titanium retainers
Roller rockers (I havent decided on whether to go with shaft yet)
probably replacing the bronze valveguides with AFR metal ones
stainless valves
Fast intake 90mm maybe Im worried about losing torque at the low end

I may have forgotten something but the goal is to have a bullet proof engine and I want to keep the stock bore. The engine will run at mid RPM's but for hours...hours..hours. I have no desire for high rpms or high rpm power and torque. Like the tortoise and the hare Im building the slow consistent tortoise that can run forever....well almost
endurance engine............

step up to a killer howards or Oliver rod and a magnum or magnum xl crank- even though a dragon slayer will get the job done




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