My 10 bolt is leaking.. have some questions
09-26-2009, 07:29 PM
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My 10 bolt is leaking.. have some questions I don't drive my SS very much. Its only moved maybe 40 miles in the last month. It sat in the garage the past 2 weeks. I backed it out this morning to go for a nice cruise and I noticed a wet spot on the floor of my garage. I got under the car to find the bottom of my 10 bolt wet with a really slow leak. The leak is from the rear end housing.
My question is, what would be the easiest way of fixing it? I probably can't do it myself. I'm a full time student and don't have any tools with me. Also, I know the 10 bolt is a POS and not worth putting any money into. I just don't really drive the car enough to throw something like a 9" in there right now. Is there an easy way to check if it's just in need of a new seal?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated fellas!
My question is, what would be the easiest way of fixing it? I probably can't do it myself. I'm a full time student and don't have any tools with me. Also, I know the 10 bolt is a POS and not worth putting any money into. I just don't really drive the car enough to throw something like a 9" in there right now. Is there an easy way to check if it's just in need of a new seal?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated fellas!
Last edited by 35thLE02; 09-26-2009 at 08:44 PM. Reason: Clarifying my OP
09-27-2009, 01:06 AM
#5
So from the cover or from the front where the driveshaft connects to the yoke? These cars are known to leak from the pinion seal behind that yoke. If it is just damp I wouldn't worry about it. If it is dripping alot then I'd fix it. I actually just did my pinion seal last week.
09-27-2009, 03:36 AM
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So from the cover or from the front where the driveshaft connects to the yoke? These cars are known to leak from the pinion seal behind that yoke. If it is just damp I wouldn't worry about it. If it is dripping alot then I'd fix it. I actually just did my pinion seal last week.
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09-27-2009, 11:57 AM
#10
The pinion nut is a 1.25" socket. I just did mine last week and I have NEVER messed with a rear end before. It is beyond easy I thought, probably one of the easiest things I have done on my car! And if you wanna get specific I didn't even mark the nut or anything because my pinion nut had backed out so much I took it off with my fingers!!! Yea not good! Also I wouldn't worry so much about the crish sleeve because it takes alot of torque to crush it anymore than it already is. I mean I am 250lbs and I was literally hanging on the ratchet when I tightened it back up and I have no problems. So no I did not replace the crush sleeve. I didn't follow a write up, I pretty much looked at it and just went for it. It is way easier than you think.
1.Drain your gear oil out because it will leak when you pull the pinion seal
2.Get the rear of the car as high as you can to prevent tranny fluid from dripping out when you pull the driveshaft. I put the jackstands on the frame and let the rear hang just because it is easier to get at the seal this way.(You could leave the DS in the tranny but it is just in the way IMO)
3.Use an 11mm socket to take off bolts on rear of driveshaft.
4.Drop rear of driveshaft down and pull it out towards the back. (Thats the only way I could get mine out because the 3' Magnaflow was in the way up by the transmission)
5.Mark the nut and yoke with a punch or even paint so you know where it was tightened to. Also mark the orientation of the yoke so you can line everything up when you put it back together.
6.Use 1.25" socket to take off pinion nut.
7.Pull yoke off pinion.
8.Use seal puller to pop out old seal. I tried prying mine out with a screwdriver for 30min and didn't succeed. Seal puller popped it out in 2sec.
9.Clean EVERYTHING as good as you can! I used brake cleaner sprayed on a rag and wiped everything I could...housing for seal, pinion, nut, washer.
10.Here I used Permatex #2 non hardening sealant and smeared it around the seal where it met the housing.
11.Lube rubber on new seal with gear oil and tap it in as evenly as you can with a hammer and piece of wood. Or heck if you have something the same diameter as the seal and that would keep it even too as long as it goes in straight and even.
12.Here I also smeared Permatex on the splines on the pinion and pressed the yoke on with my hands.
13.With the yoke on I also put sealant on the washer and blue loctite on the nut and tightened everything up. MAKE SURE YOU LINE UP YOUR MARKS!!!
14.Refill with gear oil and posi additive and throw driveshaft back on and thats it, your done! You might possibly want to let it sit a few hours for the sealant to cure.
1.Drain your gear oil out because it will leak when you pull the pinion seal
2.Get the rear of the car as high as you can to prevent tranny fluid from dripping out when you pull the driveshaft. I put the jackstands on the frame and let the rear hang just because it is easier to get at the seal this way.(You could leave the DS in the tranny but it is just in the way IMO)
3.Use an 11mm socket to take off bolts on rear of driveshaft.
4.Drop rear of driveshaft down and pull it out towards the back. (Thats the only way I could get mine out because the 3' Magnaflow was in the way up by the transmission)
5.Mark the nut and yoke with a punch or even paint so you know where it was tightened to. Also mark the orientation of the yoke so you can line everything up when you put it back together.
6.Use 1.25" socket to take off pinion nut.
7.Pull yoke off pinion.
8.Use seal puller to pop out old seal. I tried prying mine out with a screwdriver for 30min and didn't succeed. Seal puller popped it out in 2sec.
9.Clean EVERYTHING as good as you can! I used brake cleaner sprayed on a rag and wiped everything I could...housing for seal, pinion, nut, washer.
10.Here I used Permatex #2 non hardening sealant and smeared it around the seal where it met the housing.
11.Lube rubber on new seal with gear oil and tap it in as evenly as you can with a hammer and piece of wood. Or heck if you have something the same diameter as the seal and that would keep it even too as long as it goes in straight and even.
12.Here I also smeared Permatex on the splines on the pinion and pressed the yoke on with my hands.
13.With the yoke on I also put sealant on the washer and blue loctite on the nut and tightened everything up. MAKE SURE YOU LINE UP YOUR MARKS!!!
14.Refill with gear oil and posi additive and throw driveshaft back on and thats it, your done! You might possibly want to let it sit a few hours for the sealant to cure.
09-27-2009, 12:28 PM
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The pinion nut is a 1.25" socket. I just did mine last week and I have NEVER messed with a rear end before. It is beyond easy I thought, probably one of the easiest things I have done on my car! And if you wanna get specific I didn't even mark the nut or anything because my pinion nut had backed out so much I took it off with my fingers!!! Yea not good! Also I wouldn't worry so much about the crish sleeve because it takes alot of torque to crush it anymore than it already is. I mean I am 250lbs and I was literally hanging on the ratchet when I tightened it back up and I have no problems. So no I did not replace the crush sleeve. I didn't follow a write up, I pretty much looked at it and just went for it. It is way easier than you think.
1.Drain your gear oil out because it will leak when you pull the pinion seal
2.Get the rear of the car as high as you can to prevent tranny fluid from dripping out when you pull the driveshaft. I put the jackstands on the frame and let the rear hang just because it is easier to get at the seal this way.(You could leave the DS in the tranny but it is just in the way IMO)
3.Use an 11mm socket to take off bolts on rear of driveshaft.
4.Drop rear of driveshaft down and pull it out towards the back. (Thats the only way I could get mine out because the 3' Magnaflow was in the way up by the transmission)
5.Mark the nut and yoke with a punch or even paint so you know where it was tightened to. Also mark the orientation of the yoke so you can line everything up when you put it back together.
6.Use 1.25" socket to take off pinion nut.
7.Pull yoke off pinion.
8.Use seal puller to pop out old seal. I tried prying mine out with a screwdriver for 30min and didn't succeed. Seal puller popped it out in 2sec.
9.Clean EVERYTHING as good as you can! I used brake cleaner sprayed on a rag and wiped everything I could...housing for seal, pinion, nut, washer.
10.Here I used Permatex #2 non hardening sealant and smeared it around the seal where it met the housing.
11.Lube rubber on new seal with gear oil and tap it in as evenly as you can with a hammer and piece of wood. Or heck if you have something the same diameter as the seal and that would keep it even too as long as it goes in straight and even.
12.Here I also smeared Permatex on the splines on the pinion and pressed the yoke on with my hands.
13.With the yoke on I also put sealant on the washer and blue loctite on the nut and tightened everything up. MAKE SURE YOU LINE UP YOUR MARKS!!!
14.Refill with gear oil and posi additive and throw driveshaft back on and thats it, your done! You might possibly want to let it sit a few hours for the sealant to cure.
1.Drain your gear oil out because it will leak when you pull the pinion seal
2.Get the rear of the car as high as you can to prevent tranny fluid from dripping out when you pull the driveshaft. I put the jackstands on the frame and let the rear hang just because it is easier to get at the seal this way.(You could leave the DS in the tranny but it is just in the way IMO)
3.Use an 11mm socket to take off bolts on rear of driveshaft.
4.Drop rear of driveshaft down and pull it out towards the back. (Thats the only way I could get mine out because the 3' Magnaflow was in the way up by the transmission)
5.Mark the nut and yoke with a punch or even paint so you know where it was tightened to. Also mark the orientation of the yoke so you can line everything up when you put it back together.
6.Use 1.25" socket to take off pinion nut.
7.Pull yoke off pinion.
8.Use seal puller to pop out old seal. I tried prying mine out with a screwdriver for 30min and didn't succeed. Seal puller popped it out in 2sec.
9.Clean EVERYTHING as good as you can! I used brake cleaner sprayed on a rag and wiped everything I could...housing for seal, pinion, nut, washer.
10.Here I used Permatex #2 non hardening sealant and smeared it around the seal where it met the housing.
11.Lube rubber on new seal with gear oil and tap it in as evenly as you can with a hammer and piece of wood. Or heck if you have something the same diameter as the seal and that would keep it even too as long as it goes in straight and even.
12.Here I also smeared Permatex on the splines on the pinion and pressed the yoke on with my hands.
13.With the yoke on I also put sealant on the washer and blue loctite on the nut and tightened everything up. MAKE SURE YOU LINE UP YOUR MARKS!!!
14.Refill with gear oil and posi additive and throw driveshaft back on and thats it, your done! You might possibly want to let it sit a few hours for the sealant to cure.
09-27-2009, 02:08 PM
#13
Well if you don't take the rear totally apart with only the pinion in there so you can get a rotational torque reading... which is basically your preload on the bearing... You may smoke it or have more issues. A guy at work had a yo-yo shop do his and they just torqued the nut on with and impact. He had to have it flat-bedded shortly after and bought a spare kit I had to do it over again by someone who knew how to do it right. It's a gamble doing it with everything in.
