dmh low profile cutouts + custom 3" Y on 99 SS
09-27-2009, 06:29 PM
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dmh low profile cutouts + custom 3" Y on 99 SS I have no time to know who is and is not vendors here anymore but Dave at DMH is one of the nicest "car" guys you can have the opportunity to deal with. He bailed me out of a bad situation with an unnamed vendor on here that took my money and was giving me the run around, nothing enough to make me want to bad mouth them but they were going to make me wait an additional couple weeks after a 2 month saga trying to gather parts for a build in early summer. I called Dave just to see if I could speed things up and get the cutouts from him directly and he wanted to know what I was doing and convinced me I wanted his new oval cutouts. Well he was right, they are not just for vetts, they save you needing a "T" which is usually not stainless and reduce the amount that hangs down by a couple or three inches. Now not everyone is going to want to pay for a custom Y but they will work with pre-made Y's as well.
Why a custom Y, because this is a daily driver, not a track car even though I take it to track for "Street night". I did not want to smell gas so I wanted cats, right after the beautiful American Racing Jet Coated Headers and before the cutouts and I wanted a full 3' merge pipe and only after that hook into the stock pipe back to the mufflers. I added an extreme cam (.614/.607 lift) to my recent build but had it cut to my specs from comp so it had exactly 0* overlap and when running thru the mufflers it is very hard to pick up that my car is cammed at all, that was on purpose. I own another "street" car a 600hp Cobra that brought too much attention to me, so this one was set up for stealth.
I missed the first opportunity to take pictures when I first picked up the car, I was so blown away I lost my mind even though I had a camera in my pocket. My SS is on a trailer now (destroyed the 10 bolt on the first pass with more HP) waiting on a new trick 9" Moser/Detroit Locker/4.11/35 spline/4 channel abs/ LCA lowered rearend from Driveline Soultions so I sucked it up and crawled under there to take some pictures for Dave's website and here they are. Keep in mind the last couple that give you the view from the side, because my car is on a trailer, you would have to be laying on the ground and looking under the car from a height of about 2", you can NOT see these things even when you lean over trying to see what is going on, the only thing that is visible is the coupling from my LS1 which is only zip tied until I finish tuning at the track and then I plug the headers until I do my next upgrade!
Why a custom Y, because this is a daily driver, not a track car even though I take it to track for "Street night". I did not want to smell gas so I wanted cats, right after the beautiful American Racing Jet Coated Headers and before the cutouts and I wanted a full 3' merge pipe and only after that hook into the stock pipe back to the mufflers. I added an extreme cam (.614/.607 lift) to my recent build but had it cut to my specs from comp so it had exactly 0* overlap and when running thru the mufflers it is very hard to pick up that my car is cammed at all, that was on purpose. I own another "street" car a 600hp Cobra that brought too much attention to me, so this one was set up for stealth.
I missed the first opportunity to take pictures when I first picked up the car, I was so blown away I lost my mind even though I had a camera in my pocket. My SS is on a trailer now (destroyed the 10 bolt on the first pass with more HP) waiting on a new trick 9" Moser/Detroit Locker/4.11/35 spline/4 channel abs/ LCA lowered rearend from Driveline Soultions so I sucked it up and crawled under there to take some pictures for Dave's website and here they are. Keep in mind the last couple that give you the view from the side, because my car is on a trailer, you would have to be laying on the ground and looking under the car from a height of about 2", you can NOT see these things even when you lean over trying to see what is going on, the only thing that is visible is the coupling from my LS1 which is only zip tied until I finish tuning at the track and then I plug the headers until I do my next upgrade!
Last edited by 04snake; 10-07-2009 at 09:08 PM.
09-28-2009, 07:11 AM
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call Dave, the owner, I don't know what the ovals are going for officially, I paid the same that another vendor was reselling his dual round setup but that was back in July during a big commotion, check with him to be sure. I can't get into my Credit Union to see what is was exactly right now, sorry
http://www.dmhperformance.com/
http://www.dmhperformance.com/
09-28-2009, 06:34 PM
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Here is a look at the switch setup that controls them The SS was still on the trailer to haul it over to get the 9" installed Weds or Thurs, it is raining and is under a cover because I had to leave the wounded warrior outside so I got lazy and didn't add pictures of the switch setup but it is worth a look at my stealth install in the ashtray.
Here you go, the car is right from blowing the 10 bolt at the track! Notice the winch cable is still attached
Can you spot the LM-1 sitting on the floor for data-logging?
Switch on the left controls the line lock as shown the line lock is off, rocker back, the switch on the right controls both cutouts and was supplied with the dual control DMH setup.
Now the line lock is on, rocker forward, light on. That lighted switch I supplied, it is not what came with the line lock kit I got from Thunder but one of a few I had that matched the size of the quality one supplied by DMH. I have purchased dozens of switches, all shapes and sizes and most I wouldn't use. I did that and wasted 10 or 20 dollars to find exactly what I wanted for a custom 4 way switch plate I have on the Cobra for I/C recirculation pump, nitrous arming, bottle heater and to activate my cruise control switch so it becomes a line lock I can launch off the line with my left thumb. I have seen just about every type rocker switch available, Dave uses a very HD dual rocker rest at center type with a smooth feel and is all you need.
What do you think? Bye the way the DHM's cycle from full closed to full open and back again happens in less than 2 secs, I timed it. They are a work of art, call Dave, you won't be disappointed. The reason I wanted DMH is from what everyone here was saying when I was shopping for a cutout setup in May, after dealing with him in a pinch and then after installing the duals, I'm not sure why you would want anything else but everybody has their favorites I guess.
Here you go, the car is right from blowing the 10 bolt at the track! Notice the winch cable is still attached
Can you spot the LM-1 sitting on the floor for data-logging?
Switch on the left controls the line lock as shown the line lock is off, rocker back, the switch on the right controls both cutouts and was supplied with the dual control DMH setup.
Now the line lock is on, rocker forward, light on. That lighted switch I supplied, it is not what came with the line lock kit I got from Thunder but one of a few I had that matched the size of the quality one supplied by DMH. I have purchased dozens of switches, all shapes and sizes and most I wouldn't use. I did that and wasted 10 or 20 dollars to find exactly what I wanted for a custom 4 way switch plate I have on the Cobra for I/C recirculation pump, nitrous arming, bottle heater and to activate my cruise control switch so it becomes a line lock I can launch off the line with my left thumb. I have seen just about every type rocker switch available, Dave uses a very HD dual rocker rest at center type with a smooth feel and is all you need.
What do you think? Bye the way the DHM's cycle from full closed to full open and back again happens in less than 2 secs, I timed it. They are a work of art, call Dave, you won't be disappointed. The reason I wanted DMH is from what everyone here was saying when I was shopping for a cutout setup in May, after dealing with him in a pinch and then after installing the duals, I'm not sure why you would want anything else but everybody has their favorites I guess.
Last edited by 04snake; 10-07-2009 at 09:10 PM.
09-28-2009, 06:53 PM
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i remember my first day welding 
Sweet looking exhaust though, nicely put together. Glad to hear they've got good service, i thought about running their cut-outs on my SS.
Sweet looking exhaust though, nicely put together. Glad to hear they've got good service, i thought about running their cut-outs on my SS.
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09-28-2009, 07:24 PM
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I have them as well. Nice pieces. Only problem I had is I think my switch was bad. They opened fine and them I closed them. Well a few minutes later my ash tray where the switch was located started smoking. The wires melted between the switch and the pigtail connector. I think the switch got stuck.. Keep an eye on yours and see if the wires get warm when you open and close the cutouts...
09-28-2009, 07:47 PM
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I have them as well. Nice pieces. Only problem I had is I think my switch was bad. They opened fine and them I closed them. Well a few minutes later my ash tray where the switch was located started smoking. The wires melted between the switch and the pigtail connector. I think the switch got stuck.. Keep an eye on yours and see if the wires get warm when you open and close the cutouts...
as far as the welding crack this was done by a father and son team. The father welds tube chassis that get certs to 6.0 sec, the son is 22. I gave the son permission to weld some of the pipes. If you look at where the cutouts are on the elbows Frank did that, FJ some of the mid pipe work but his father inspected it all for strength, nice crack though. You got any stainless work you have done you want to share, not as easy as mild steel but seeing as you are an experienced welder I wouldn't have to tell you that
09-29-2009, 10:04 PM
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Can't say I looked at the wiring directions either, just in a habit of using relays, in line fuses, soldering all connections and using shrink tubing over all soldered connections. I also use rubber grommets if going thru a frame or metal opening I made and immobilize with ties and loam everything at the very end. It is a hassle and adds time, a few bucks but I have had good luck doing it that way, just the way I was shown how to do it. From what you describe it sounds like you got a short, if you got the same switch I did unless you recessed the switch so it could remain depressed under a lip it sits at rest in the off position, but it could have been bad as well.
09-30-2009, 08:46 AM
#14
cutout Can't say I looked at the wiring directions either, just in a habit of using relays, in line fuses, soldering all connections and using shrink tubing over all soldered connections. I also use rubber grommets if going thru a frame or metal opening I made and immobilize with ties and loam everything at the very end. It is a hassle and adds time, a few bucks but I have had good luck doing it that way, just the way I was shown how to do it. From what you describe it sounds like you got a short, if you got the same switch I did unless you recessed the switch so it could remain depressed under a lip it sits at rest in the off position, but it could have been bad as well.
? did DMH supply the oval pipe that's welded to the Y-pipe? I'm thinking the muffler man only has round tubing.
I bet this is twice as loud as having the cutout back on the I-pipe?
also I read you did reseacrh on switchs did you research a rotory type ***?
waiting on a sound clip.
09-30-2009, 03:56 PM
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cool you have both dual and a y pipe.
? did DMH supply the oval pipe that's welded to the Y-pipe? I'm thinking the muffler man only has round tubing.
I bet this is twice as loud as having the cutout back on the I-pipe?
also I read you did reseacrh on switchs did you research a rotory type ***?
waiting on a sound clip.
? did DMH supply the oval pipe that's welded to the Y-pipe? I'm thinking the muffler man only has round tubing.
I bet this is twice as loud as having the cutout back on the I-pipe?
also I read you did reseacrh on switchs did you research a rotory type ***?
waiting on a sound clip.
You have seen the beauty of this set up IMHO. It is both dual exhaust when they are open because it is almost a direct straight shot out from the headers and also really gets hospital zone quite when I force it through the Y and the crappy Chokemaster that that the prior owner installed after he chucked the better performing SLP muffler. All those times I cussed him out for that and now I like it because that chambered crappy muffler really makes it hard to pick up on the big cam.
Sorry I didn't need a rotary switch for on/off NOS arm, heater, CControl arm, I/C pump so I was just interested in high amp, lighted HD switches without having something you would see in a Tractor Trailer (metal), so never tried anything like that but you can still partially open the cutouts with this switch. The rotary would tell you more about % open, so that would be interesting but I drive around on the street with them closed and only blast ricers to scare them off from bugging me and then close them again. Track full open.
When I get to the track (again) I will have movies and you can hear what it sounds like at WOT in all 4 gears. I had the cameras rolling when I side stepped the clutch at the track and spun the teeth off the pinion gear but you will have to wait until I get down the track, won't be long the 9" is on it's way from Michigan now and the track has a couple of Saturdays left before it closes.
American Racing, the Y is was custom made for me
Last edited by 04snake; 09-30-2009 at 04:03 PM.
10-07-2009, 02:20 PM
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SICK, Sick, sick. the IRS>>9" was a big highlight to the Cobra build up and it did not dissapoint on my SS. This one doesn't have gun drilled axles, lightened gear set, or the 4 bolt thru quick change race center section but there is no way I am going to be able to break this like I exploded the Eaton posi in the 10 bolt.
I have to get under there to investigate a wheel sensor not reporting so I will get some pics and grab a video you can watch them in action so you and others can listen to the snap on [BOOM], snap off [put.put.put]
