TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

next year I want to build a new engine and probably put it in my iroc. I have a f1 procharger on my current gen 1 sbc with 15psi, if I transfer this unit to a gen 3 engine, would an aluminum block suffice, or should I stick with a iron block?

+badss+

iTrader: (12)

how much boost you going with

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

i plan to stay on my current pulley and maintain around the same 15psi..
my current 383 has a 236/248 duration cam on a 113. i think i wanna take a step down on a cam on a gen 3 engine. like a 230/236 or something similiar.
this might increase psi a little.

MelScrilla

iTrader: (2)

Fireball just pushed a stock aluminum block to 1700rwhp before the stock lining cracked. So I would say that you should be alright aluminum. Just make sure you have a good tuner.

LS1Silverado05

iTrader: (41)

As stated above guys have taken the aluminum blocks really far. In my mind though, if you can afford the added weight, I like the idea of an iron block.

In the end, they both will probably get the job done...

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like a 4"bore aluminum block should work just fine then.
lighter is better!

on a side note, I was thinking gen 3 block with l92 heads. edelbrocks 28455 manifold
stroker crank (4" stroke) . I already have an intake elbow and 90mm Throttle body.
then I just need ecm/wire harness. and procharger bracket and ls1 bracketry.(is that a word?) oh and sbc>ls1 mounts.

180ls1

iTrader: (4)

i dont believe l92's are going to hold 15psi, you are better off listing a power goal the a psi that you plan to run because that will change with the setup and heads that you decide to run.

180ls1

iTrader: (4)

i dont believe l92's are going to hold 15psi, you are better off listing a power goal the a psi that you plan to run because that will change with the setup and heads that you decide to run.

+badss+

iTrader: (12)

for 15 psi id go aluminum and save weight but if you plan on upping the boost ever go with iron to be on safe side im planning on boosting a 366-370 aluminum with 10-16psi so it all depends on if you want the extra weight or not and yes the tune goes for iron and aluminum find a good tuner and your fine either way

BLNLS1/RX7

iTrader: (2)

I ran an aluminum block on Boost for 4 years with no problems which also had stock bottom end.I switched out to a 408 iron block with all forged parts just for peace of mind.The aluminum block will take a lot of abuse.The iron block I believe is bullit proof.

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

why wont l92 heads hold up?

dimetweaker

iTrader: (1)

thin deck, no meat on 'em means more likely to lift from what ive read/ been told ( but im still gonna give it a shot )

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

Well FIRST of all, your procharger won't work on a gen3 engine because the LS engines use a reverse rotation unit. Secondly, I'd go iron. Everyone says aluminum can last a long time, but I had bad luck with mine with my F1 and 15psi. Not that that had anything to do with how mine cracked cuz it probably would have cracked under a regular N/A application judging on where it cracked

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

what factory heads would be recommended for a boost application? and secondly, why wont my f1 work on a setup like this?

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

Ahh, alright, yea, if that bracketry will fit under the hood of your third gen, then thats awesome! I wish my procharger was up top like that!

For heads, go with AFR or trickflow, basically anything with a thicker deck will take you a lot further

NemeSS

iTrader: (127)

stock 317 have been proven to support up to 800hp
the lowest priced aftermarket castings would prolly be the dart heads,
and they have thicker than stock deck

cablebandit

iTrader: (37)

the best combo to go with would be ls2/lq4/lq9 block....etp/all pro heads. Forget psi and tell us how much hp you want. I would not use a ls1/ls6 block but thats me.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Whatcha doing with the car?

Drag racing for fun?
Drag racing for competition?
Roll racing?
Just a badass street car?
Road racing?

Unless you're doing competitive racing and every .10 of a second counts.....go with the iron block. It'll be the last block you ever buy. The ~114 is meaningless for a street car or a street/strip weekend warrior. Whats the general rule of thumb....100 pounds extra weight is about .10 second in the quarter mile??? You can make up for that little bit of weight 10-fold by the amount of power you can throw at it and it'll laugh at 25psi. Why have an aluminum block that is WAY WAY weaker than an iron block. Makes no sense unless you're competing or if you just want 600-700 hp.

.

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

good point. lq9's are cheaper.
I do want to stay with a 4"+ bore block, so no ls1/6 for me as cablebandit said. 800hp is a sound goal ive had. right now my sbc 383 with my f1 is stupid fast, its only at 7psi now, I still need to swap pulleys. my current bracket looks like the one I posted above and it all clears my hood with about an inch to spare.

LS6427, I am drag racing for fun / serious street car. I run 17" zr1s with 315 in back for nice tread contact. I really never wanna go over a pump gas psi. I do have a meth kit in the works for maintaining detonation. no intercooler on my current 7psi setup, and if meth will support my 13-15psi goal, then I will probably avoid a intercooler and the messy piping that it comes with. but lets save that discussion for later..

I think I will go research 317 heads.. I understand thats a stock lq9/lq4 head?

I dont mind using a big port stock head, and in my mind that 800hp goal can be done with on plenty of stock head options. as long as they can hold the pressure, I dont see why not, my sbc does, but it also has many more head bolts


..and for fun.. my current setup..

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

My opinion than, since that extra weight of the iron block will be 100% meaningless to you....get one. It'll last forever and you can build a 2,000+ hp set-up later on with it if you choose to.
Also, I think you can get a lightweight front sway bar to make that weight increase around 80 pounds net, IIRC.

.