k5383

iTrader: (10)

Intermittent starting problem is the topic.

Yesterday:
Drove my car from school to work last night, went to leave work at it took me 15 minutes to get it started. I kept thinking it was VATS. So I kept swapping between my 2 keys. Got it started and was planning on putting resistors in to eliminate that ****. didn't get around to it....

Today:
Was at work, drove to gas station on break for food. I always leave my car running but today for some reason I turned it off...

When I came out, it would not start. Figured it was VATS again, after 15 minutes with NO avail I had one of the mechanics bring my the Modus....Ran the codes and it pulled up code p0704 ( I think) but it told me Clutch input switch circuit problem.

So, I started to take apart the underdash to get the the NSS switch, got it and pulled it apart, everything looked correct. It was set up that when the push rod was "free" both switches were closed, and when it was pushed up both switches were closed. Dunno if thats correct.


Anyways, that's all the information I have for you guys.

Any suggestions? I'm going to have my friends dad bring it home this evening on a wrecker so I can dick around with it all day tomorrow.

BTW: the VATS is messed up IF the security light stays ON? after like 2 seconds with the key in run it turns off.

Just wanted to confirm that, and that I'm not chasing the wrong stuff.

Sorry for the long post....I'm REALLY frustrated, and trying to give you as much background as I can.

Chris

JDMC5

iTrader: (3)

I'm just wondering why you would be having issues with the VATS in the first place. Plus, you need to be more specific by what you mean by "tried to start it for 15 mins" did it crank or what?

k5383

iTrader: (10)

Okay.

Maybe a month ago the VATS was acting up. (Security light STAYING on would not crank)

Swapped key and problem went away.

I spent 15 minutes trying to get the car to crank, lock/unlock/key to start nothing. Repeat etc etc etc....

During this fifteen minutes the car was NOT cranking, or making any noises like it was. everything else worked.

nikon1999

iTrader: (22)

sounds like a ground issue... or loose posts at the battery

k5383

iTrader: (10)

True, but my thought was that would affect more than just the starter...everything else works, stereo, lights, sub/amp,etc.

Thing to check though, thanks.

k5383

iTrader: (10)

update:

Went there after class, me and my friend were able to push start it....Kind of embarassed I did not think of that earlier...

So, that means it's just the cranking circuit that was my problem. Once I got it home, it started up/cranked several times with-out hesitation.

When I was at the gas station, I swapped the relay from the starter and Ign. Meaning the relays are good.

When I hit the starter it made no noise, which would lead me to think that the starter is good. Otherwise, if the starter was bad it would atleast click or attempt to start.

Basically, I'm going to replace the NSS tomorrow.

lt1pwr1

iTrader: (1)

Have you checked for power at the starter when you have someone try to start the car? If there is no power then work your way to the NSS like you said. If you don't have power there, suspect ignition switch problem.

synner

Check all grounds I am a diesel mechanic and alot of no starts i see is due to bad framerail grounds. the lights and radio will sometimes work just fine. just my .02

k5383

iTrader: (10)

I'll definetly check into that then.

I ended up replacing the NSS, once I got it push-started and drove it home I have had NO hiccups since?

Guess time will tell if that was the problem. I took the switch apart and it looked worn/corroded. So we shall see.

SuperC1

iTrader: (4)

Any updates on this?..