which clutch for me?
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which clutch for me?
Hey guys my clutch has officially went out. My car is a 99 trans am with only headers/ exhaust, lid and drag radials. I drive quite a bit, about 20k+ a year, 75% being highway. I make about 10 passes a month at the track. I want a clutch that will LAST for a lot of miles while still holding up fine at the track.
Also i know cheap and dependable dont usually go together, but i would like the best deal. I guess i will also need a master and slave right? anything else i would also need? thanks!
Also i know cheap and dependable dont usually go together, but i would like the best deal. I guess i will also need a master and slave right? anything else i would also need? thanks!
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Go with a MONSTER! Check out MORRISMOTORSPORTS.NET
Give Derrick a call and he will hook you up! Great clutch, and it comes with a one year warranty.
Give Derrick a call and he will hook you up! Great clutch, and it comes with a one year warranty.
#6
I daily drove my LS7 for 2 years, hit 60k miles, did 200 track passes and the obligatory roll races and dig races on the street over that time. I could have driven the LS7 for at least another 100k as it still had machine marks on the flywheel and pp and the clutch was at least as thick as the 3.5 that went in.
It was just my master failing on me and my driving of another year on that failed piece that caused me to swap it out. If you want a clutch to last, don't let hydraulic issues go unchecked. I went with a bandaid fix of swapping fluids and mityvac for a year.
It was just my master failing on me and my driving of another year on that failed piece that caused me to swap it out. If you want a clutch to last, don't let hydraulic issues go unchecked. I went with a bandaid fix of swapping fluids and mityvac for a year.
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Thanks for the input, as of right now a ls7 clutch is what I am getting ! From what I have read some people have had some bad luck with specs going out with about 5000 miles or else I may have already ordered one yesterday.
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does anyone know the part number for the master cylinder? I am trying to order the ls7 clutch and slave off of kyspeed, but the only master they have is a tick and its way out of my budget, thanks
#9
Just get the tick and don't look back. The master in mine started the sticky pedal syndrome within a year, drill modded no less. I was pretty good on fluid maintenance, every month or so after track abuse and DD I swapped out fluid. It drove fine, but come the next spring, cleared out fluid, went to track and found after a 3-4 WOT shift it got stuck bad. It worked ok over a year, DD was fine, but track use, wot shifts more than 3 times and highway roll races were out of the question. I prolonged its life with a mityvac and 2 week intervals on fluid changes. Swapped out to a DOT 5.1 fluid and it managed 3 -4 weeks worth before getting dirty.
The stock piece works great when it works, but once it starts having issues, you are hurting the clutch. you can swap out master's again, but you are at the cost of 1 tick master now, and the time of 2 master swaps.
The stock piece works great when it works, but once it starts having issues, you are hurting the clutch. you can swap out master's again, but you are at the cost of 1 tick master now, and the time of 2 master swaps.
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I would, but i really cant afford it at this moment, but need my car back on the road ASAP. Is this the part number for the 01+ slave that I should get. 15046288. Also should I be fine with a LUK master cylinder? I have read mostly good things about them. Sorry for all the questions but my car is stuck in my driveway and i need it to be in the shop this week. Thanks yall.
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A stock MC from your local parts store will be just fine my man. Go to Advance Auto and pick one up, and yo wil be fine.
If still in need of a clutch, let me know, and I can get you hooked up with a Monster.
If still in need of a clutch, let me know, and I can get you hooked up with a Monster.
#13
Trey, remember clutch life is related to a number of factors. Just because someone posts that their "clutch went out" (no matter what the brand) this doesn't just happen on its own without cause. That being said make sure that you use your new assembly with a new or at the very least properly resurfaced flywheel. Make sure that yoiu follow the suggested break-in procedure and that get a clutch that is rated to handle your power. If you have any further questions feel free to ask and I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks,