ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

Just got my clutch re-pucked and flywheel surfaced and re-installed and now I'm having a very hard time with my clutch. It was a mild problem before, but now its way worse than its ever been. I can drive around all day normal, but as soon as I start doing any aggressive driving, the clutch becomes a nightmare to deal with. After a WOT pull in any gear, it will either grind going into the next gear, or not go into the gear at all entirely without double or triple clutching. A few times, its even not gone OUT of the gear that I do the WOT pull in until I do a few pumps of the pedal. Before, it would just have the pedal sticking on the floor and sometimes, very slight grinding, but now its just ridiculous.. Oh, its also almost impossible to get it into reverse while the car is running.

My current system is all stock right now except for the clutch disk itself which is a custom 6 puck that is lined with brass. I completely blead the system multiple times using the bleeder on the slave, and I even bought a mityvac (which pulled zero bubbles at 15 inHg) so I'm confident that there is no air in the system. But the master cylinder is stock, and I haven't even performed the drill mod on it either.

Could my problem be the master cylinder/ stock hydraulics, or would the fact that my flywheel was surfaced mean that I'd need to shim? I'd hate to spend $350 on a TICK m/c and that not be my problem.. On the other hand, I'd hate to pull the trans out AGAIN after I JUST got it put back in to find out that shims aren't the solution either. Are there any other possible culprits that it could be? I really hate this crap! Seriously, this is the very last issue I need worked out before I can get the car tuned.

SladeX

I went thru the same dilemma, no air in system, multiple bleeds etc

Pedal would stick to floor after aggressive driving. The tick master solved my problems. The master's seals are probably on their way out and is basically not giving you full release, you put in a thicker clutch which would probably show you are clutch dragging under high rpm.

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

You really think the seals in my stock 57k master are on their way out!?

And as far as the 'thicker' clutch comment goes, I'm not so sure thats a valid point either. I've had that exact same clutch for probably 30k miles and thus far, has held up without this bad of problems... I just figured I'd freshen it up and get new material on it since it was out. The flywheel was surfaced, which makes me think the opposite of you as well, but maybe I'm wrong here. I did want some opinions so thats why I posted.

SladeX

If its not pushing as much fluid as fast, you end up with clutch drag. My new stock master started with these symptoms at around 40k into its life, and I drove it another 20k like that but with no more racing since it'd be stuck to the floor after the 3rd WOT shift. I was hesitant about the tick too considering the cost. Well the car shifted like a dream after the install.

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

Just because your hydro's only have 57K on them...how OLD are they?

BUt either way, the stock MC is a known weak link, and would start there. First, make sure you have the bleeding down to a science. Once you are sure you are bleeding correctly, and you still have problem, would go and change out MC

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

Well, since the car is a 2002, the seals are over 7 years old..

Thanks for the replies guys, I do appreciate them. I guess the general consensus here is a new (and better than stock) MC.?.?.? No one thinks that shims would be beneficial?

1BADAIR

iTrader: (1)

have to measure to see if it needs shimmed

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

No, I didnt measure. I really wish I had now.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

If the flywheel was cut it's possible, if not likely, that your issue is relative to the geometric change associated with the removal of material and its affect on stack height. Do the measurements referenced in the below thread by Tick and let us know what you find. I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks,

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...need-shim.html

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

Thanks man, yea, I was looking at that thread earlier. Unfortunately I found it AFTER I had everything back together. DOH! I'm just trying to figure out if these symptoms I have are distinctly indicative of one particular culprit.. Guess it could be either from the sounds of it. So I suppose I'll just have to take my trans back out even though its the more labor intensive option, its definitely the cheaper too. Sounds like I cant rule it out until I do the actual measurements.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Thats sucks man. I just knew the mityvac would work. It took me forever with the mityvac to get my LS7 clutch to bleed. If you want any help give me a call man