Changed rear end, sits like a 4x4 now
10-11-2009, 08:03 PM
#1
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Changed rear end, sits like a 4x4 now OK guys, I need some help. I just put a Moser 12 bolt with 4.10s in my '99 convertible. Hope this hasn't been asked a hundred times before, I tried searching for it.
My car was no low rider before, but now that the swap is done it's sitting at least an inch higher, maybe more. I realize that the axle tubes are larger on the Moser than stock, but is that the only thing causing this? Clearence from top of the tire to the fender is 4.5".
In addition to the rear end I put in Spohn LCAs (non-adj), LCA relocation brackets, Spohn adj PHB, Edlebrock torque arm, Spohn 25mm sway bar w/ Moser relocation brackets, Bilstein shocks, and stock springs.
Not sure what else in the setup might be causing it to sit higher. I know I can just throw in some lowering springs, but I'd like to figure this out. Also running 17x11 ZR1s on it, so I have to be careful how low I go. Any help appreciated!
My car was no low rider before, but now that the swap is done it's sitting at least an inch higher, maybe more. I realize that the axle tubes are larger on the Moser than stock, but is that the only thing causing this? Clearence from top of the tire to the fender is 4.5".
In addition to the rear end I put in Spohn LCAs (non-adj), LCA relocation brackets, Spohn adj PHB, Edlebrock torque arm, Spohn 25mm sway bar w/ Moser relocation brackets, Bilstein shocks, and stock springs.
Not sure what else in the setup might be causing it to sit higher. I know I can just throw in some lowering springs, but I'd like to figure this out. Also running 17x11 ZR1s on it, so I have to be careful how low I go. Any help appreciated!
10-12-2009, 10:37 AM
#3
Its totally the axle. moser uses a larger tube and welds the spring perch higher on the tube than the stocker. so the car is about .75 in higher in the rear. Thats the least of the mosler issues, make sure you check both the TA bolts and the axle retaining bolts very often. They use a **** poor design on the TA and they sent me retaining bolts that did not self lock and they backed off in about 1200 miles almost killing me when the axle/brakes/ wheel/tire decided to leave the car. I replaced them with proper locking fastners and locktite. There is not much you can to for the TA bolts except a spot weld or very frequent retightening. Locktite does crap to keep them tight and if they back off just a little you can easily rip your TA
10-12-2009, 02:50 PM
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Thanks guys. I'll try yanking the isolators and seeing what that does. Anyone notice a huge difference in interior noise or other issues with the isolators out?
Any advice of lowering a convertible with 17x11 ZR1s? I know there are a thousand links on here about lowering, but I'm just cutting to the chase.
Any advice of lowering a convertible with 17x11 ZR1s? I know there are a thousand links on here about lowering, but I'm just cutting to the chase.
10-12-2009, 04:03 PM
#6
Make sure you cover the body end of the spring with heater hose or it will eat thru the sheetmetal, and sound like crap.
I run 17x11's with no issues on the street. I did have to bang in the inner fenders a bit for autoxing. I ground down the edges of the bumpstops, but it really did not make a difference. But My car is a hardtop, no idea about differences on the vert
I run 17x11's with no issues on the street. I did have to bang in the inner fenders a bit for autoxing. I ground down the edges of the bumpstops, but it really did not make a difference. But My car is a hardtop, no idea about differences on the vert