3.23's to 342/373 and possible rebuild
#1
3.23's to 342/373 and possible rebuild
so this winter im looking for some small projects to squeeze some more ET/mph out of my car...i have a backup 3.42 m6 rear end but i want to possibly do a full rebuild (possibly this http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=2319) and a gear swap...i have a solid converter and i cut 1.70 60's but im doing some suspension work and am looking to possibly swap in 3.42's (cheap option) or some 3.73's...but do i really need them? or should i just leave the rear alone? it is dead silent and solid as can be right now and im afraid if i dick with it i could loose that...what are your opinions on this? i know 3.42's wont make much of a difference but i wouldnt mind also keeping my rpm's reasonable for highway driving while adding a little more oompfh down low (i want my 60's in the 1.6x's) and i also plan to spray it with 1st gear locked out next year...thanks!
#3
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Let me tell you one thing I have learned while rebuilding a handful of 10 bolts. No ten bolt is solid after its accumulated some miles. I have seen pretty low mileage, dead silent 10 bolts that had more slack in them then I care for. The ten bolt is underbuilt or overpowered, however you want to look at it. Me and a couple of guys that I know commited to rebuilding our ten bolts every 10 or 20K. I figure if they have fresh, tight bearings, it gives them a fighting chance of surviving hard launches. I dont however think the wheel bearings are as crucial, so during the initial rebuild I would replace them but in subsequent rebuilds I wouldnt worry about it. My main concern is the pinion and carrier bearings as these see the highest load and are responsible for keeping everything in alignment. I would also look into a solid pinion spacer, as I believe the crush sleeve is a weak point in the ten bolt's design. When labor is free, rebuilding 10 bolts is a pretty decent way to go for bolt on/cam only cars, especially autos.
#4
yeah i think the rebuild will definitely be on the list, but what do you guys think about picking up a set of 3.42's for next to nothing vs. just getting 3.73's....im also concerned about loosing some of my ability to launch decent on the street with the 3.73, i think they might be a bit much for the street even with dr's...
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what gears do you currently have? 2.73s then yes change to something, even 3.23s or 3.42s. If you already have 3.23s then the swap to 3.42s isnt gonna be much different at all.
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#9
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I have 2.73s and my wife used to have a 2001 Z28 with 3.23s. I really couldn't feel much of a seat of the pants difference between them, except maybe a little when first taking off. And that car wasn't any faster than her other 2001 Z28 with 2.73s. I'm possibly getting a 3.42 rear swapped in tomorrow; if so then I'll report back with my SOTP impressions and then maybe timeslips later this month.
#10
that would be awesome! im likely just going to put 3.42's in though for the hell of it, i can prolly get a set for $15 and i wanna rebuilt the rear anyway, so why not....and it wont really affect my street launch or gas mileage much and will likely help my bottom end a bit.
#11
As far as 3.23s vs 2.73s. My buddie had a Z with 2.73s and My Z had 3.23s. I walked his *** over and over again until finally he swapped in some 3.73s and didnt tell me. Like always we stopped on the way out to his house and raced one night. Well he did me like i had been doing him for months and that is fucked me up outta the hole lol. I switched to 3.73s and yes i spin maybe a little more on street tires when im on assfault. I do fine when im on drag radials and motor. Long story short. Theres a good SOTP difference. My opinion its well worth it. Switched mine out in 3 hours with it in the car. I say throw some 3.73s in and maybe the sus. work your doing will even it out and you wont lose any traction.
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As far as 3.23s vs 2.73s. My buddie had a Z with 2.73s and My Z had 3.23s. I walked his *** over and over again until finally he swapped in some 3.73s and didnt tell me. Like always we stopped on the way out to his house and raced one night. Well he did me like i had been doing him for months and that is fucked me up outta the hole lol. I switched to 3.73s and yes i spin maybe a little more on street tires when im on assfault. I do fine when im on drag radials and motor. Long story short. Theres a good SOTP difference. My opinion its well worth it. Switched mine out in 3 hours with it in the car. I say throw some 3.73s in and maybe the sus. work your doing will even it out and you wont lose any traction.
#14
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3.42 rear is in and it definitely revs faster and pulls harder. Not like a totally different car or anything, put it's an increase of only .69 so it's about what I expected. Highway RPM isn't too high.
However, the rear I happened to get is howling pretty badly (with a low grinding when getting on the gas and then again when letting off, bearing noise?) so if we can't figure out how to fix it then my original 2.73 rear is going back in
However, the rear I happened to get is howling pretty badly (with a low grinding when getting on the gas and then again when letting off, bearing noise?) so if we can't figure out how to fix it then my original 2.73 rear is going back in
#17
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No I'm sorry, that was confusing the way I wrote it. I mean that the gear ratio is only .69 of a point higher, which is about a 25% increase going from 2.73 to 3.42. I haven't taken it to the track yet. The concensus seems to be that an increase of gear ratio like that might be worth abut 2 tenths in the 1/4.
#18
No I'm sorry, that was confusing the way I wrote it. I mean that the gear ratio is only .69 of a point higher, which is about a 25% increase going from 2.73 to 3.42. I haven't taken it to the track yet. The concensus seems to be that an increase of gear ratio like that might be worth abut 2 tenths in the 1/4.