COPO9560

Looking at buying a 9 inch for my 99 Z28, should I budget for a new drive shaft as well? I know a new one is needed for S60, not sure about 9 inch.

Also, what is rwhp limit for factory shaft? Plan to build from back end to front and want a reliable set-up.

Any input would be appreciated, Car is stock now with M6.

DAVESS02

iTrader: (30)

Yea, you need a longer DS or you'll deal with vibration and tailshaft bushing wear. After I bought one from Bob at EPP, the vibration went away.

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

i am useing stock driveshaft with stock u-joint with a 1330 yoke.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

if you had an A4 id say the stock shaft would be ok for a while... being you have a M6 car though if you have the need for a stronger rearend you will need a driveshaft for sure. the cost of repair from the damage of a broken driveshaft will cost more than the new driveshaft... then you still need a better one when you get it all fixed up!!! Strange and PST make great driveshafts for a respectable price.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

Thanks for the order, I appreciate it!

http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=541
Link to the PST Driveshaft with 12 bolt and 9 inch length option. Bob

formula98ws6

I had a stock length strange cm shaft with spicer 1350 slip yoke and twisted the splines on the yoke and the main shaft of trans [m6]. This was with a stock ls1 with just long tubes,lid,tuning and a very stout 9-inch with spool and 4.30 gears full susp. just one good 6000 rpm clutch dump and a dead hook and everything was trashed. If I would of have had the longer driveshaft it may of been ok.

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

The length of the drive shaft is going to be determined by the type of pinion yoke on the 9". I've got a billet 1350 yoke from moser and I needed a 1" longer shaft. If you use a stock style pinion yoke (which are longer), you can get away with a stock length shaft.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

I have never noticed a difference in the yoke lengths myself, as even the stock style will be too short. I'll have to look into it. Bob

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

My buddy used a junkyard 3rd member and the moser housing/axle package and has no problem with the stock drive shaft. I measured everything on both of our cars and that's where the difference was.....the moser yoke is almost an entire inch shorter (ie, further away from the trans) than the stock ford yoke. This is why it's important to measure for drive shaft length and not assume it'll work based on someone else's setup!!!!


Here's the stock style ford 9" yoke:


Here's an aftermarket billet 9" yoke:


You can clearly see how much taller the stock one is, allowing you to use a shorter drive shaft without a problem. I imagine there's even significant measurement differences between aftermarket (moser, strange, MW etc) yokes.

hlaalu

iTrader: (3)

damn i was wondering this too. so if i want to upgrade to a 9" i'm looking to spend around $3k between the rear, driveshaft and misc?

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

OEM Ford had about 4 different yokes... either the long one(pic above) or short, and a couple different u-joint sizes for each. almost all the aftermarket yokes(Strange, Moser, Mark Williams, etc) will be the shorter length though.

as far as costs go, a standard 9 inch with an iron center and a driveshaft can be had for about 2500.00 depending on how you need to outfit it. you get into some options like powdercoating, abs/tcs, aluminum centers, Wavetrac diffs, then it will go over 3k in a hurry. My basic fabricated 9 inch package with a chromemoly adjustable torque arm and applicable crossmember, and a new chromemoly driveshaft is 3K shipped. pm me for a quote.

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

The longer one is usally a 1330 yoke. which fits the stock driveshaft and u-joint. i didnt change u-joints and it been working properly for me. the slip joint is in the same distance as the 10 bolt was.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

We always use the Moser 9 inch rears, which come with the 1350 yoke. With this yoke the driveshaft should be one inch longer for the length to be correct. Many have gotten by with their stock driveshaft being one inch too short, few have ended up with a vibration as a result of the shaft being too short. For me, the added cost of a better and stronger driveshaft is well worth it.
The stock driveshaft is known to be weak, and will turn into a pretzel fairly easily. When this happens the driveshaft will often take out the exhaust system with it, and can put punctures in the floor of your car. Years ago I had an aftermarket (not PST) alum driveshaft, which used a 1330/1350 conversion u joint. At 515 rwhp on M/T ET Streets I snapped the U Joint in two at the starting line, the car never tripped the lights. There went my Hooker cat back and the punctures in the floor... The driveshaft was trashed as it also broke off the end off it. It was at this time that I decided to try a PST driveshaft. Bob

IWGF

iTrader: (6)

Somewhere in that range, I spend a little more on my MWC rear, but it's pretty well optioned out, should be pretty bulletproof.

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

the reason i have a stock driveshaft. is i build my own 3rd member with the 1330 yoke, but will be switch to the longer driveshaft and 1350 yoke.

Camaros-n-Chevelles

iTrader: (3)

Very interesting thread with a lot of great information.

I am now replacing the stock aluminum driveshaft. I installed a 9" along with a RPM 4L60 to handle the 408. This will save me trouble down the road.

Thank You again for all of the information.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

http://shop.brutespeed.com/Driveshafts_c1090.htm

Here is a link to the PST driveshafts that I carry. Thanks. Bob