Offset upper control arm bushings: The last run
10-22-2009, 05:11 PM
#1
Offset upper control arm bushings: The last run I had one last run of Offset Upper Control Arm bushings made. I've got about 7 sets--and when they are gone, they are gone. It's time for them to leave my shelf. As such I'm dropping the price by 20% to $127.20 a set. And for that price, I'll ship them as well.
For those that don't know about these, here is what they are about:
You get a complete set of 4 upper contorl arm bushings machined from Delrin. The come with machined internal sleeves to insure proper fit in the mounting bracket. The hole is offset the maximum amount possible in order to gain negative camber, or if you have a car that has too much (like a lowered street car) allows you to remove some and get the alignment back to more normal settings.
Instructions are included, and the perk of running these is that they are completely legal for SCCA autocross. There are those that it doesn't matter to, but running GM arms with Offset bushings results in less weight than aftermarket adjustable arms, and the GM arms fit around the shock tower properly at full suspension compression. I haven't seen an aftermarket arm that does that, which usually results in a bent ball joint mounting plate.
If you have a car that has cronic issue with too much negative camber, or you are a corner-carver who is looking for more front grip in the corners--these bushings will help both of you.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=18&ModelID=7
For those that don't know about these, here is what they are about:
You get a complete set of 4 upper contorl arm bushings machined from Delrin. The come with machined internal sleeves to insure proper fit in the mounting bracket. The hole is offset the maximum amount possible in order to gain negative camber, or if you have a car that has too much (like a lowered street car) allows you to remove some and get the alignment back to more normal settings.
Instructions are included, and the perk of running these is that they are completely legal for SCCA autocross. There are those that it doesn't matter to, but running GM arms with Offset bushings results in less weight than aftermarket adjustable arms, and the GM arms fit around the shock tower properly at full suspension compression. I haven't seen an aftermarket arm that does that, which usually results in a bent ball joint mounting plate.
If you have a car that has cronic issue with too much negative camber, or you are a corner-carver who is looking for more front grip in the corners--these bushings will help both of you.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=18&ModelID=7
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10-26-2009, 11:23 AM
#2
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I have a set of these on my car. Before install we could only get -1.1 maximum camber out of the front and caster was limited to roughly 6.5
After install I saw the alignment machine read -2.6 degrees of camber! Of course I didnt want that much, I stick to around -1.8 but it goes to show you how much more adjustment they will allow. Even with -1.8 camber my caster was still able to reach 7.0-7.5 degrees.
These impressed me more than when i installed both sway bars combined. The car always gripped before but usually with a lot of tire squeal, now there is a good deal more grip and the tires rarely make any noise.
These are a must have for anyone who is serious about cornering, or like Sam said, anyone who is interested in getting proper geometry for normal driving after modifications to other suspension pieces.
After install I saw the alignment machine read -2.6 degrees of camber! Of course I didnt want that much, I stick to around -1.8 but it goes to show you how much more adjustment they will allow. Even with -1.8 camber my caster was still able to reach 7.0-7.5 degrees.
These impressed me more than when i installed both sway bars combined. The car always gripped before but usually with a lot of tire squeal, now there is a good deal more grip and the tires rarely make any noise.
These are a must have for anyone who is serious about cornering, or like Sam said, anyone who is interested in getting proper geometry for normal driving after modifications to other suspension pieces.
10-27-2009, 11:14 AM
#6
We've had them for years!!! 
Been mentioned many times before! I got your order and I'll get them out tomorrow.
Been mentioned many times before! I got your order and I'll get them out tomorrow.
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10-27-2009, 11:17 AM
#7
Ooohhh, I don't know. I'm down to 4 sets left after Andros's are accounted for.
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Last edited by Sam Strano; 10-27-2009 at 11:22 AM.
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10-29-2009, 10:57 AM
#9
Nope have a few left.....
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10-30-2009, 11:11 AM
#11
All the sets I had are gone.
Anyone who might still want a set is encouraged to place an order, because if/when I get 5 orders I will make another run of these. There has to be enough demand to warrant it though. There would be no charge on backordered sets, but I would need a credit card number on the order to count it--and because they would be a special run we can't cancel any orders that are placed for these. They would become special order parts.
Anyone who might still want a set is encouraged to place an order, because if/when I get 5 orders I will make another run of these. There has to be enough demand to warrant it though. There would be no charge on backordered sets, but I would need a credit card number on the order to count it--and because they would be a special run we can't cancel any orders that are placed for these. They would become special order parts.
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10-30-2009, 03:02 PM
#13
Basically these do what camber bolts do for strut cars, they allow you more adjustment range either to the positive or negative side.
They were build to allow for increased negative camber on competition cars. But we also recognized that those who could not get their camber back to factory spec for a lot of highway use could benefit as well.
More negative camber equals more front end grip in the corners, and better wear if you tend to beat up the outside shoulder of your tires. But you also get more tire wear on the inside if you drive a lot of highway.
Are they helpful? Like most parts, yes--as long as you need the job done that they do.
They were build to allow for increased negative camber on competition cars. But we also recognized that those who could not get their camber back to factory spec for a lot of highway use could benefit as well.
More negative camber equals more front end grip in the corners, and better wear if you tend to beat up the outside shoulder of your tires. But you also get more tire wear on the inside if you drive a lot of highway.
Are they helpful? Like most parts, yes--as long as you need the job done that they do.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
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10-31-2009, 07:27 AM
#14
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Thanks.
10-31-2009, 09:15 AM
#15
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Thanks Sam for advise. I will be in contact again later for sway bars and the Fays 2 set up. Sorry about cutting phone call short but was being hurries by a grumpy old companyman. BTW Pa was friggin awsome compared to west texas. cept your roads. But the way they wind thru the hills and towns. Aint no way I would ever have a drag setup for the streets there. And as for sway bars-I had alsways thought the hollow bars had a better memory than solid-plus lighter weight. But want to run that adj rear 21mm? bar. I apreciate all the help and parts. Look foward to future purchases from your shop.
10-31-2009, 09:57 AM
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Basically these do what camber bolts do for strut cars, they allow you more adjustment range either to the positive or negative side.
They were build to allow for increased negative camber on competition cars. But we also recognized that those who could not get their camber back to factory spec for a lot of highway use could benefit as well.
More negative camber equals more front end grip in the corners, and better wear if you tend to beat up the outside shoulder of your tires. But you also get more tire wear on the inside if you drive a lot of highway.
Are they helpful? Like most parts, yes--as long as you need the job done that they do.
They were build to allow for increased negative camber on competition cars. But we also recognized that those who could not get their camber back to factory spec for a lot of highway use could benefit as well.
More negative camber equals more front end grip in the corners, and better wear if you tend to beat up the outside shoulder of your tires. But you also get more tire wear on the inside if you drive a lot of highway.
Are they helpful? Like most parts, yes--as long as you need the job done that they do.
Main reason for the original question is sometimes when I've seen lowered cars or trucks they have a lot of negative camber because the drop is so low and was wondering if this is the case with the koni/strano package or is there enough adj. left in the stock adj. to get the tire back square after settling.
11-02-2009, 11:39 AM
#17
Thanks Sam for advise. I will be in contact again later for sway bars and the Fays 2 set up. Sorry about cutting phone call short but was being hurries by a grumpy old companyman. BTW Pa was friggin awsome compared to west texas. cept your roads. But the way they wind thru the hills and towns. Aint no way I would ever have a drag setup for the streets there. And as for sway bars-I had alsways thought the hollow bars had a better memory than solid-plus lighter weight. But want to run that adj rear 21mm? bar. I apreciate all the help and parts. Look foward to future purchases from your shop.
There is no memory issue with the hollow bars vs. solids. That's got to do with the quality and treatment of the metal. The metal we use is an ST52.2 alloy that has a tensile strength of 85,000 psi and a yield of of 75,000 psi.
I've got my standard hollow 22mm rear bar that works with a Watts link, and we have an adjustable 22mm (also hollow) that is a special order part, also works with a Watts link, but gives 3 position adjustment as well). It's $245 vs. the standard bar @ $199.
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11-02-2009, 11:41 AM
#18
Thanks for the reply, I guess the 100k question for me is, Is this something I can adjust before hitting the track/twisties or I have to take it in for an alignment shop to do. Reading previous posts it seems like it's a shop adjustment but just wanted to make sure.
Main reason for the original question is sometimes when I've seen lowered cars or trucks they have a lot of negative camber because the drop is so low and was wondering if this is the case with the koni/strano package or is there enough adj. left in the stock adj. to get the tire back square after settling.
Main reason for the original question is sometimes when I've seen lowered cars or trucks they have a lot of negative camber because the drop is so low and was wondering if this is the case with the koni/strano package or is there enough adj. left in the stock adj. to get the tire back square after settling.
They are not adjustable. They go in to add to extend the end of the range of adjustment. Then you align the car with the lower control arm adjustment (you just now can get more camber than stock).
Alignments are always shop adjustments. Cars vary, lowering the car will gain you negative camber. Some cars can get back in spec, some cannot.
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11-02-2009, 04:16 PM
#19
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They are not adjustable. They go in to add to extend the end of the range of adjustment. Then you align the car with the lower control arm adjustment (you just now can get more camber than stock).
Alignments are always shop adjustments. Cars vary, lowering the car will gain you negative camber. Some cars can get back in spec, some cannot.
Alignments are always shop adjustments. Cars vary, lowering the car will gain you negative camber. Some cars can get back in spec, some cannot.
Waiting for a check to come so I can spend it on suspension parts.lol. Ordered your springs just waiting on the check to order up the Koni's figured while I was in there might as well do it right. After it settles a bit I'll see what I'm left with and if it's necessary.
11-02-2009, 06:43 PM
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DAMN!! thats about as strong as QT 1000. Thats the same streanth levels I use in coil tubing. And I saw that you have a package with the adj rear bar. Is it adj by different bolt locations? or by adjustable links?