01ws666

So I did a first to 2nd gear break stand then rolled out WOT to about 130ish today and as I was slowing down to pull in my drive way felt a little jerking bind. So I pull back out to see whats up and 1st gear is fine but when it shifts to 2nd it was like hitting the breaks with loud clunking/banging from the trans. from a stop starting in manual 2nd it wont go anywhere just binds up What could be broke here guys since all the transmission shops are closed for the weekend? Thanks in advance

FLT

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you might have a damaged low roller.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

I would concur on the low roller.

01ws666

Thanks for the replies guys. It was the low roller that broke also took out my rear 5 pinion planet. I have the broken parts to add to my growing collection lol. but not sure what the low roller is exactly I have the big piece that sits on the planet and holds the clutches it looks like then theres a thick ring that sits in that that was broke into 4 pieces is the low roller the big piece or the ring that sits in the middle?

01ws666

Got the car back low roller and rear planet replaced, my builder said almost every check ball in the valve body was stuck with metal pieces I guess there was alot of metal in the pan too, well now a few days after getting it back I'm having a few issues.

first I noticed that my converter wasn't locking solidly like it did before, it used to feel like a 5th gear shift and was instant but that went away, it was locking still for 1 day but I couldn't feel it at all, the rpm's would just slip down slowly... then the next day it stopped locking up completely.
And the last issue is now it sometimes bucks a little coming to a stop and is draging my rpm's down to 400ish when stopping quickly almost feels like its about to stall, kinda feels like bucking and stalling you get with an aftermarket cam but I still have the stock cam in it and never had these issues before this low roller breakage.
Does this sound like valve body issues to you guys or improper install maybe? nothing was done to the tune so dont know what would make my converter stop locking completely besides a problem in the valve body? converter is a yank PT3800 and was not cut and cleaned for some reason despite how much metal was found in the valve body and pan

01ws666

bump for new question?

01ws666

all right took the car back, they pulled the pan and didnt find any metal blocking anything in the valvebody they changed out the soilanoid that controls converter lockup I guess and that didnt fix anything... The pwm managment "i think its called" is disabled according to my builder so what could be causing no converter lock up what so ever?

silverz28camaro

iTrader: (20)

If all that metal went through the tranny, then your converter is contaminated, Its very hard to flush it out. Maybe see if your converter company offers free re-stalls, or cheap re-builds. My converter lockup is sluggish now after 1.5 years of torture, and I had to replace a few parts that send metal through the tranny. My company(vig.) offers a 2 year warranty, so I'm sending the converter back, and rebuilding the tranny at the same time to re-fresh all.

Most any shops will tell ya that re-building a trans without converter is bad news, even if the converter worked fine before. Ther prolly is a bunch of that same metal in the converter if its the same one.

01ws666

yea same converter its a yank pt3800 I'm pretty sure yank offers a free re-stall just didnt want the car down that long...
Anyone know how long it takes yank to re-stall a verter from the time you send it out till you get it back?
Or any other opinions or possibilities that may cause no lock-up?

silverz28camaro

iTrader: (20)

did you make sure to put a new o-ring on the input shaft?

01ws666

I didnt do the rebuild or the install so i have no idea but I can ask my builder... Is not replacing the o-ring something that would cause non lock-up?