sspower23

After My searches I discovered that Redline, Dino?, GM, Royal purple, Mobil 1 etc are some of the best rearend fluids, would you agree?

For a 2001 camaro SS, 6 spd, 4.10 gears. Whats the best Rearend fluid and additive and weight of the fluid? People say 75W 90 or 80W 140 so Im have no idea.
Car is My daily driver and once a week at the track so which brand of Gear lube and what weight would be the BEST??

Thanks

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

amsoil fan here, become a perfered customer, and save $. on weight just use factory recommended weight,

DutchmanZ

iTrader: (6)

I have always used what the General said use. Of course that may come from having been a GM Tech for over 15 years. I remember the SS using a "special" lube. The bottle had GM and Castrol writen all over it. Seems like it was SynTorq.

silverz28camaro

iTrader: (20)

The best oil is clean oil. When you break in a new rearend you get a ton of metal shavings in the oil and that is what causes oil seal to leak. just keep it clean. And if you are worried about the rearend going out then geat a 12 bolt. put some miles on it and change the fluid twice over a 5,000 mile period.

SSsoSIK

iTrader: (1)

What is the additive that has to be added to the rear end when the oil is changed and where can you buy it..

1BADAIR

iTrader: (1)

i use val 75/140 conventional.
I feel the thicker oil softens the hit to the gears.

Ohh, and dong get a 12 bolt with a 6 speed

01 ss vert

iTrader: (1)

read this, and then buy what you want. I say AMSoil as well.

http://www.amsoil.com/products/gearl...hitePaper.aspx

I, too, am a preferred customer and use it in both my vehicles.

silverz28camaro

iTrader: (20)

you should be able to get posi additive at any auto parts store, or some oils come with it, I.E. royal purple, just read the lable or ask one of the ******** across the counter.

willfully armed

+1 for AMSOIL, make sure you use the GM additive.

02CamaroSSLE

iTrader: (5)

yeah i would use the GM additive... but wheni rebuilt my rear end in my truck i put a auburn limited slip and put the right amount of additive in with the right gear oil but still got chattered... asked around and a guy told me to buy fords additive he said somthing about it makes it work better... well anyways bought it just added like 1/3 of the bottle and chatter went away... so if you get some chatter from back there i would use that for sure!

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

i agreed with the ford additive,

slowbird6.0

Why not 12 bolt with 6 spd?

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

no.

the oem GM sucks because it's $20+ a quart.

all the boutique synthetics like redline, royal purple, amsoil, provide no real benefit at over $10-15 a quart. the pinion seal on the 10-bolt axle is notorious for leaking and seeping, and using a synthetic is likely to make that worse. the only reason you would need a synthetic oil is if the axle will see excessive heat for long durations. yours won't, certainly not at the track for the 20 seconds or less that it's under load.

the only reason you need limited-slip additive in the gear oil, also known as friction modifier, is when you have a differential that uses clutches under spring pressure. the additive allows the clutches to slip smoothly with no chatter. too much additive in the gear oil can degrade it and cause increased gear tooth wear. only 1998 cars had the auburn clutch differential as standard, after that the auburn was an option and the standard differential was the torsen which is clutchless and does not require friction modifier- if anything friction modifier reduces the torsen's ability to lock both wheels.

the standard gear oil viscosity is 90 weight, such as 75w-90 or 80w-90.
you choose oil viscosity based on the operating temperature it's going to be working at. the only time you need a 140 weight gear oil is if the axle will be heavily loaded as in a towing situation or run for long duration highway trips in hot climates. otherwise the gear oil in the axle is never getting over ~150° and the viscosity difference between a 90 vs 140 gear oil is negligible at or below that temperature.
so for your question what is the best, you didn't define what best means and if it includes price of the oil. but for nearly everybody they will see no benefit choosing a synthetic oil vs the cheap conventional brand that's less than $10/qt. from the store. the only thing that really matters is that the oil is GL-5 rated.

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

the fact you had 4.10 gears installed in your 10-bolt axle,
history has shown they will start whining and howling because you're going to the track and also daily driving the car.
history has also shown 10 bolts routinely break when taken to the track.
whatever gear oil you choose will not prevent any of that.

however i would love to see you use redline, royal purple, or amsoil,
then put in a claim to them when your ring & pinion eventually gets enough gear tooth wear and starts howling and see if they honor their oil claims and guarantees.

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

I use regular 80w90 in mine with a bottle of gm additive because I have an Auburn posi.

Hardtop

iTrader: (3)

I run 80/90 with the Ford additive. Many people recommend the Ford additive over th GM product. It reduced the chatter from my rear when making a sharp turn when moving from a stop sign or light.

cgormanZ28

Use the GM friction modifier. You have to put the right amount in. Its precise. We use ACDelco diff fluid here at Porsche. Royal purple has f/m already in it. Shouldn't have to add more. Do some tight figure 8s after the change.