Pseudonym

iTrader: (3)

How do you guys bleed your brakes? I have abs and tcs if that makes a difference. I've bled brakes on a bunch of other cars, but this 99 trans am must be different somehow. I tried using a vaccuum pump that was set up for bleeding brakes, and it didn't work, neither did gravity bleeding. Shouuld I try pumping the brakes while loosening the bleeder? Or do I have to have the car up on stands, and have the car in drive to activate abs?

Sorry if this is a dumb question (I feel like it is) but I am at a loss. Everything is installed correctly and the master cylinder is full.

sman

iTrader: (4)

I just replaced a few callipers and am having a difficult time as well, I got them working just fine IMHO, until I drove a buddys fbody, mine are TERRIBLE. I was a little frightened actually.

Pseudonym

iTrader: (3)

Also my master cylinder was dry, and there is air in the abs module. Is there any way to bleed the brakes without using the scan tool and vaccuum?

DRGnFLYZ28

+1

I'd like to know as well

cajunss

iTrader: (10)

I used a Motive Products Power Bleeder worked great. But then again my master cylinder was not dry.

Pseudonym

iTrader: (3)

Thanks cajunss.

stepuptata

iTrader: (11)

I need help with this also. Master was out and brake calipers removed. Now having a hard time get a normal pedal feel. I blead at the master and at the calipers still no luck. Car has a hard pedal until I start the car then goes too floor....help please.Thanks/

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

Guys, I let my master cylinder go completely dry last when I sent my calipers out for powdercoating. There was tons of air in the system. The only thing that saved me was the Motive Power Bleeder. That bleeder is a beast. What you need to do is after you bleed the brake system, take take the car out for a ride on a side road and activate your abs and traction control. Bring the car back and re bleed again.

stepuptata

iTrader: (11)

My made my own Motive bleeder. I bought another Master cylinder cap and tap with air fittinr. I put 16-18 psi to it and let the compressor do the work. Seems too work great. I now have pedal. A ton of air came out of both front calipers. My next step is to place on Jack stands and run car apply brakes on and off then re-bleeding. I think I should be good afterwards

MrEddie

I use a motive power bleeder as well - makes it quick and a one-man job. For those removing their calipers, what did you do to limit the brake fluid from draining? I saw one guy crimp the brake line with vice grips - ouch. Someone said to push the seat forward and wedge a 2X4 between the seat and brake pedal to close the master - does this work?

Giddswat

iTrader: (13)

I went to Home Depot and bought 4 bolts w/nuts (3/8'' X 1''), I removed the banjo bolt from the line were it enters the caliper and replaced with the above bolts, make sure you use the copper crush washers that are on the banjo bolt, this will keep you from losing any brake fluid.

MrEddie

Great - thanks for the tip! The haynes manual states the calipers cannot be removed on TCS cars due to the need to bleed the ABS with a techII. However, the factory manual doesn't mention this. I'm going to be painting my calipers and was making sure there are not gotchas along the way.

Darth Cypher

I'm going to be doing my entire brake system sometime this year (pads, calipers, rotors and lines). I have ABS so I will need to get one of these Motive Bleeders you all talked about. Which one did you get? I searched and found several types. I haven't torn into my brakes yet so I don't know what set up/fitting/whatever I need. Thanks.

Edit: Nevermind, just found the Application Guide on their site.

jrob56

iTrader: (39)

how much do dealers want to just bleed the system?

im gonna be pulling my calipers for powdercoating, new rotors and pads as well.

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

If the master cylinder goes dry, you have to bench bleed it. If you don't, you'll never get all the air out.

If you have traction control and air gets in it or the ABS, you will need a Tech 2 to cycle the ABS motors to get all the air out.

That sounds like a good idea. The less fluid you lose, the easier it will be to bleed later.

Darth Cypher

Is there a work around to going to the dealership to bleed out the ABS?

Giddswat

iTrader: (13)

Im not sure what a dealership will charge you, but I bet you could buy a brand new Motive Power Bleeder (Approx. $60.00) for the same cost or cheaper and you would have a nice tool to use in the future.
If you get a price from a dealership and you don`t mind , could you post up what they are charging, just curious.

jrob56

iTrader: (39)

ya ill get a quote and post it up. i dont have the calipers yet thought so itll be a bit proly. 60 doesnt sound that bad though for the bleeder.

need4fun2469

you don't need a techII tool.
take your car out,activate the abs system a couple of times,bleed your brakes a again.
techII is a rip off.

BRD-PREY

iTrader: (5)

I installed stainless lines when I redid my brakes and calipers.
PER SERVICE manual with ABS/TCS bleed the left rear /front right then right rear/front left. Now I could have the order left/right messed up as it was over a year ago.
If you still need it PM me and I will send you that page out of the manual.
I put those speed bleeder bleed valves with check valves. I then took some clear tycon (plastic tubing and ran it up first then down into the bottle. This keeps fluid at the bleeder so if the hose sucks a little it pulls in fluid iinstead of air. Mine pumped right up and I got the air out pretty fast. I was surprised as I've had fits in the past getting all the air out. I bleed them by myself.

The reason to do it yourself and not at the dealer is you can put a good quality brake fluid like Strano sells.
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