My V finally Feels like a " SPORTS " sedan
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My V finally Feels like a " SPORTS " sedan
I just installed :
- stage 3+spec clutch kit with steel fly and the spec slave
- Creative steel motor mounts
- UUC Diff bushing
- Filled the stock trans mount with 80a urathane
My car feels solid. Feels like a totaly diffrent car, between shifts you can just feel the power .. I love it..
The down side is there is slightly more small drivetrain noises/vibration but no more major clunk ..
The clutch
- feels good, Grabby but pedal feels good. It has no chatter but does have a slight bounce/jerk if you let the pedal off to fast. and no more second gear starts...I used the spec salve that was 200$. I tried to first use a F-body slave but the fitings were totaly diffrent. The Spec slave is identical to stock, even has the same part number stamps . The only down side is the Tick bleeder Did not fit. Total for clutch and slave was $950 and the $80 harbor fright jack made it a one man job (but it wasnt easy)
The motor mounts
-Look good, my stock ones were shot. I even have a video of how bad they were. No more rattle during shutdown so im happy. I also wrapped them with exhaust wrap because they are very close to the headers. It will prevent the polly from melting... The downside was I had to remove the Kooks to get them off. Inspector gadget would not be able to get to the bolts on the mounts...
The Diff bushing
-Looks much better then stock, my stock one was shot.
The trans mount , used the 50$ can of 80a urathane (the might mouse way)
The stock one is very soft and flimsy
Cant wait till the spec breaks in so I can realy open the Ls6 up
Now pics and i have a video of the stock fly and motor mount.
Enjoy and feel free to ask questions.
The clutch
Fbody slave next to the cts-v slave
Mounts
Mount before wrapped it.
- stage 3+spec clutch kit with steel fly and the spec slave
- Creative steel motor mounts
- UUC Diff bushing
- Filled the stock trans mount with 80a urathane
My car feels solid. Feels like a totaly diffrent car, between shifts you can just feel the power .. I love it..
The down side is there is slightly more small drivetrain noises/vibration but no more major clunk ..
The clutch
- feels good, Grabby but pedal feels good. It has no chatter but does have a slight bounce/jerk if you let the pedal off to fast. and no more second gear starts...I used the spec salve that was 200$. I tried to first use a F-body slave but the fitings were totaly diffrent. The Spec slave is identical to stock, even has the same part number stamps . The only down side is the Tick bleeder Did not fit. Total for clutch and slave was $950 and the $80 harbor fright jack made it a one man job (but it wasnt easy)
The motor mounts
-Look good, my stock ones were shot. I even have a video of how bad they were. No more rattle during shutdown so im happy. I also wrapped them with exhaust wrap because they are very close to the headers. It will prevent the polly from melting... The downside was I had to remove the Kooks to get them off. Inspector gadget would not be able to get to the bolts on the mounts...
The Diff bushing
-Looks much better then stock, my stock one was shot.
The trans mount , used the 50$ can of 80a urathane (the might mouse way)
The stock one is very soft and flimsy
Cant wait till the spec breaks in so I can realy open the Ls6 up
Now pics and i have a video of the stock fly and motor mount.
Enjoy and feel free to ask questions.
The clutch
Fbody slave next to the cts-v slave
Mounts
Mount before wrapped it.
Last edited by maxspeed96ct; 11-08-2009 at 09:20 AM.
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stock Motor mount
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdHv5RGakgo
Stock flywheel
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zF5JeNENMUU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdHv5RGakgo
Stock flywheel
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zF5JeNENMUU
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And with the Kooks, they had to be removed to get to the engine mounts.
With the stock headers I hear its doable without removal.
Last edited by maxspeed96ct; 11-08-2009 at 09:30 AM.
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The rubber inside part of the sleeve poped right out . Then I made two very carefull cuts using a saw-zaw in the sleeve about 1/4 away from each other. ( you dont even have to go all the way through )
Then take a flat head screw driver and a hammer and tap the part you just cut.. Few light hits and it will fold right over .
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ya the guys at creative said with long tubes it doesnt get as hot and would be ok without a heat shield ...
But I still didnt like how close the mount was..
The header wrap was only 20$ at napa and it cant hurt.
Better to be safe then sorry
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