Autocrossing setup?
11-10-2009, 04:12 AM
#1
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Autocrossing setup? Im just curious what you guys would recommend for autocrossing. Been looking first at a strut tower brace for starters but I dont hear much about them. Ideas? Thanks
11-10-2009, 07:33 AM
#3
Hello
What I would recommend for a Auto X set up. Would be a set of rod/rod end adjustable lower control arms and pan hard bar. And a full length adjustable torque arm to help fine tune the pinion angle in the rear and a relocation cross member to get the arm off of the rear of the transmission. And also a set of SFC's to make the car as solid as possible. And a set of sway bars to allow the car to handle better. And as far as a strut tower brace a lot of people have there own opinions about them. What it does is eliminates a lot of roll in the strut towers themselves and ties the top of the vehicle together like the K member ties the bottom together. And seeing how we are on the subject of K Members we are the only manufacture that offers a Road Race version that not only eliminates a lot of weight but also adds extra bracing for extreme performance. Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...v4m2f8utpuns66
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad
What I would recommend for a Auto X set up. Would be a set of rod/rod end adjustable lower control arms and pan hard bar. And a full length adjustable torque arm to help fine tune the pinion angle in the rear and a relocation cross member to get the arm off of the rear of the transmission. And also a set of SFC's to make the car as solid as possible. And a set of sway bars to allow the car to handle better. And as far as a strut tower brace a lot of people have there own opinions about them. What it does is eliminates a lot of roll in the strut towers themselves and ties the top of the vehicle together like the K member ties the bottom together. And seeing how we are on the subject of K Members we are the only manufacture that offers a Road Race version that not only eliminates a lot of weight but also adds extra bracing for extreme performance. Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...v4m2f8utpuns66
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad
11-10-2009, 10:44 AM
#4
I would start off by telling you to talk to Sam Strano. He will sell you the right combo of parts and will not just take your money. the First thing He will ask you is what you want to do with the car? Class rules will effect your parts choices. Also please dont rip Sam off by taking his time and advice and buying parts form another dealer to save a few bucks, his time has value.
The basics for starters are SHOCKS, stockers and most aftermarket shocks suck and suck even more when autoxed. Then its sway bars. dont waste your money on a STB, there is very little stress there and it just adds weight. I have one and the only reason it stays is that My N20 system is mounted to it.
UMI sells good parts, but most of the common upgrades will push you way up in the autoxing class system, and not really help that much. Lastly dont use a 2x rod end LCA on any car you plan on street driving, they are race only parts.
P.S.
Once you learn to drive a bit, the biggest improvement in your times will come from race rubber.
The basics for starters are SHOCKS, stockers and most aftermarket shocks suck and suck even more when autoxed. Then its sway bars. dont waste your money on a STB, there is very little stress there and it just adds weight. I have one and the only reason it stays is that My N20 system is mounted to it.
UMI sells good parts, but most of the common upgrades will push you way up in the autoxing class system, and not really help that much. Lastly dont use a 2x rod end LCA on any car you plan on street driving, they are race only parts.
P.S.
Once you learn to drive a bit, the biggest improvement in your times will come from race rubber.
11-10-2009, 11:07 AM
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Where are you auto crossing in Alaska? On the airfield? Lol-anyway-Yes speak with Sam Strano. His advice comes from lots of experiance with autocrossing and proven setups for many different classes. He will not steer you wrong putting you and your car thru the corners.
11-10-2009, 01:36 PM
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Thanks for the help guys, Im going to check the SCCA rules and see what class I am and what im limited to. Then Ill give Sam a call/email. Thanks!
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11-10-2009, 08:43 PM
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Hello
What I would recommend for a Auto X set up. Would be a set of rod/rod end adjustable lower control arms and pan hard bar. And a full length adjustable torque arm to help fine tune the pinion angle in the rear and a relocation cross member to get the arm off of the rear of the transmission. And also a set of SFC's to make the car as solid as possible. And a set of sway bars to allow the car to handle better. And as far as a strut tower brace a lot of people have there own opinions about them. What it does is eliminates a lot of roll in the strut towers themselves and ties the top of the vehicle together like the K member ties the bottom together. And seeing how we are on the subject of K Members we are the only manufacture that offers a Road Race version that not only eliminates a lot of weight but also adds extra bracing for extreme performance. Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...v4m2f8utpuns66
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad
What I would recommend for a Auto X set up. Would be a set of rod/rod end adjustable lower control arms and pan hard bar. And a full length adjustable torque arm to help fine tune the pinion angle in the rear and a relocation cross member to get the arm off of the rear of the transmission. And also a set of SFC's to make the car as solid as possible. And a set of sway bars to allow the car to handle better. And as far as a strut tower brace a lot of people have there own opinions about them. What it does is eliminates a lot of roll in the strut towers themselves and ties the top of the vehicle together like the K member ties the bottom together. And seeing how we are on the subject of K Members we are the only manufacture that offers a Road Race version that not only eliminates a lot of weight but also adds extra bracing for extreme performance. Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...v4m2f8utpuns66
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad
Sorry Brad, but I'm going to have to completely disagree with you on that. Those things will bump him right up into street modified. And even if he doesn't care about about classing, there's much more important things to tackle first.
Lots of us like to mention the importance of shocks as the #1 thing to tackle on this car. Shocks are REEEEEEEAAAAAAAAALLY important in autox.
I would recommend to the OP to just race the car as is. After a year or a few events, identify what class you want to modify your car under. Once you have that "plan" established, begin modifying by parts and fix certain characteristics you don't like. If you just throw parts at the car, you will get frustrated and you will still be slow. I would search on F-stock setups or e street prepared setups. Also go on scca's website and read the classification rules.
11-10-2009, 11:44 PM
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Well the deal is Im going to be turboed come this summer so Im stuck in Street Modified anyway. I think Ill start with some shocks, then get sway bars and strut tower brace. Then maybe some subframe connectors.
11-11-2009, 07:02 AM
#10
Sorry Brad, but I'm going to have to completely disagree with you on that. Those things will bump him right up into street modified. And even if he doesn't care about about classing, there's much more important things to tackle first.
Lots of us like to mention the importance of shocks as the #1 thing to tackle on this car. Shocks are REEEEEEEAAAAAAAAALLY important in autox.
I would recommend to the OP to just race the car as is. After a year or a few events, identify what class you want to modify your car under. Once you have that "plan" established, begin modifying by parts and fix certain characteristics you don't like. If you just throw parts at the car, you will get frustrated and you will still be slow. I would search on F-stock setups or e street prepared setups. Also go on scca's website and read the classification rules.
Thanks Again
Brad
This is just a suggestion for you...I would look into making the SFC's one of the very first mods that you do. Just to make sure the car stays solid and also keeps the dimples out of the quarter panels.
Take it easy
Brad
11-11-2009, 01:27 PM
#11
I'll keep this really simple... and really just posting this so you can read my signature, which I think says it all...
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18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
11-11-2009, 02:42 PM
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I would seriously start out with what you have. Feel what the car is like when the roll control and handling sucks. Then get some shocks and feel what its like with better roll control.
The strut tower doesn't really do anything for handling. It braces the chassis, and it's arguable if the chassis even has enough flex to matter between those two points. I think the STB can wait and def isn't needed. SFC's I personally like for jack points. Don't worry about torque arms or LCA's at this point. If you lower the car, consider a PHB. Consider 17x11's all around.. only needs slight modification and I think Nitto NT-05 comes in 315 sizes now
A turbo car would be pretty sick with a good suspension, like koni SA shocks, Strano springs, and Strano swaybars.
11-11-2009, 04:15 PM
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Yea I has said that about the airfield because My first tour of duty was at Ft. Wainwright(Faibanks) and we used to drag race on the Airfield-that was back in 1994, So I didnt think much changed.
