223HAWK

iTrader: (11)

Im not to happy with my 60 fts when I went to the track this past weekend. I was really hoping for better times and the car didnt want to hook up. Most of it could be the track is a shitty track now..but heres a video of the car leaving. Its not a fast car but should be faster than what it is

Could my pinion angle be off causing the car to spin and no squat hard. Im not Dumping the clutch at 5000 rpms Im trying to slip it around 2500 or so. Spins all of Second gear. Yea Im only on a 275/40 DR but dang..I tryed everything from heating the hell out of them, just turing them over, no air lots of air, dumping, sliping the clutch and it is just a turd..

No Front Sway Bar
Iv got the UMI short adj T/A
Adj Panhard Bar
and LCRs with Relo brackets..
Stock Shocks
I dont have a angle finder so I have no idea what its set at..

This is not a race car so I dont realy want to go adding QA1s but I would like to see a bit better times..maybe 11.9s..I know it has it in it..but second gear spins too much.

My dad raced me on one pass and he said 3rd gear he seen the car spin and try to move sideways like it does in second.

Should I try seting it and geting some 15 in wheels and bigger sidewalls so I can leave at 4000+ Rpms to stay in the power band..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YRDtKSQ6b6c

NSTIGATR

iTrader: (4)

first thing you need to do is go to advance auto or napa and get a pinion angle finder. set it to -2* also try switching to slicks. DRs arent as friendly on manuals because of the greater shock over an automatic. when they start to spin, they spin where as a slick can take the shock better on a 6spd car and they can still spin but will bite more than the DR. first thing get that pinion set.

Carter01

iTrader: (11)

Agree^^^ You car isn't transfering the weight at all, it basically lifts then falls immediately. Get the pinion angle at about neg 2 degrees then go back. If that doesn't help enough then go with some ET Streets or Slicks.

As far as the 11 sec pass is concerned you definitely have the capability with your current set up. I was running almost exactly what you are now before I got a good rearend. I had to launch it very soft and could only get 12.36 @115, then I put in a Moser 9 and left harder and went straight to 11.92 at 117. I plan on going 11.6s this winter with a few new tricks and weight reduction. You will hit 11s, it's just a matter of time, suspension work and maybe better tires. GL

Mikey 97Z M6

iTrader: (37)

I concur what these guys have said about the DR's and being a 6sp. They just don't work well together. Get a bias ply slick or cheater slick under there and you'll get a high 11 second pass. The slick will allow you leave at a much higher rpm, netting better 60's and lower et's.

What kind of rearend and gears do you have?

Mike

223HAWK

iTrader: (11)

Thanks guys. I had my pinion angle way off. It was +1 I think. We set it at -3 and seems a lot better even on street tires....well kinda lol.

Im still on the old junk 10 bolt. Its got good axles and such, 4:10 Gear, axle brace kit but I know its one hook away from taking a crap lol. Iv already got a Fabed 9in picked out, I really like the weight savings with them and they say they are really quiet. Thats what Im after is something under 500 lbs lol and not nosiey like a 12 bolt ends up after time. Im just waiting for this one to go. I was hoping it would last till winter so I could do it over the crappy months.

I was thinking of a 4:30 gear over the 4:10s..Its not drivin much just around town to car shows, 6th gear at 75-80 Im turing about 2000 rpms.

Whats a good size slick to go with. I think Im ganna buy a set of 15 in wheels..but I dont want a really big tire..then it will turn into a race car I feel!!

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Pinion angle does not effect traction.

You want the driveline angle at zero under acceleration, thats why you put it at a neg number sitting still. How far neg depends on what bushings you have, rubber or heim ends.

Mikey 97Z M6

iTrader: (37)

Stock or aftermarket cam? Shift rpm?

Well, 6sp cars tend to like alot of sidewall, and you will want to pick your tire size before selecting a gear ratio. I think a 26" tall tire would be too short, so a 27/10.50/15 on a 8" wide wheel would be fine for your power level (and more power later) and would work ok with the 4.11 gears.

Mike

223HAWK

iTrader: (11)

Its heads/ cam car, Makes 400+ rwhp, 370+ tq. Shiftin around 65,6600 rpms

as far as the ends on the torque arm, they are hemi ends

Wnts2Go10O

iTrader: (12)

weird.. your car launches like it has lift bars on it

Carter01

iTrader: (11)

Well one way to get the driveline angle to zero is by adjusting the Pinion Angle, hence the Pinion Angle does effect traction. There are many many variables that make up the total lack of traction and since the OP stated he didn't know what angle he was running it was a good place to start and learn about suspension. I'm not looking to argue nor will I but a blanket statement to someone that does not know much about suspension like "Pinion angle does not effect traction" is a little misleading. I know it is not the 100% answer to the problem but it is a place to start and it does effect traction.

Bitemark46

The only thing the PA has an affect (indirectly) on traction is the amount of hp an extreme PA angle takes away. The downforce on the tires, front/rear suspension, and type of tires do not care if your PA is 0* or -3* under WOT.

I think the OP needs to find where his IC and CG is. The IC is probably a good 2-3 feet infront of the car.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

AGAIN, pinion angle does not affect traction.


You need to look at suspension angles. Specifically the lower control arm angle in relation to the ground.

Carter01

iTrader: (11)

OP, what hole do you have your lower control arms bolted in the relo bracket (top, middle or bottom)? The LCA when starting from the relo bracket should run uphill toward the car. Not sure if there is a specific angle to look for but they should run uphill, remember if you do change the hole you have it bolted in to get a better lca angle then recheck your pinion angle again before going back to the track for it will change. If we can't help you there's plenty of sponsors on here that can for free and a few that charge a one time fee for over the phone setup specs. Madman helped me set up mine and he is a great sponsor to deal with.

Bitemark46

The flatter the LCA relative to the ground the more it will want to push the car forward. You change the instant center with adjustments to the UCA's. Fastfatboy is correct. The rear suspenion geometry needs to be addressed.

-Mark

223HAWK

iTrader: (11)

My LCRs are in the lowest hole...Does that need to move up a hole?

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Move them up one hole and try it like that... at the end of the day a full slick is going to make a wonderous difference.

If you are swapping to a 4.30 gear the 28 inch tall slick is absolutely the way to go. if your track's prep is iffy, the bigger tire will make a world fo difference to you.

If you don't want to have to trim anything, get a set fo 28x9 et drag's, they're a little narrow, and abotu a 27 inch tire, but work really good from my exp with cars at your power level, 12 lbs of air cold and you'll be amazed at the traction. They work'd out better on 2 cars I've worked on that tried the 26 inch slicks, several brands and whatnot.

That little bit of added sidewall really helped. a 27x11.5 hoosier qtp, if you don't want to cut also is a decent tire, I've used those and had decent luck with them as well. They're a little wide for an 8 inch rim, really need to be on a 10 inch rim. They make a 10.5 width of the same tire, never used those but they should be close if not the same.

Bitemark46

IIRC putting it in the lowest hole hits the tires the hardest but on the flip side also unloads on the tire the quickest. You want instant pressure for the initial hit but you also want to carry that pressure through the first 60'. I would take a measurement from the rear bolt hole on the LCA to the ground then do it from the front LCA bolt to the ground. They should be within 3/8" to 1.5" of each other. Of course this is a ball park estimate but should point you in the right direction.

With a DR I would think that you don't want to hit the tire too hard on the initial hit only because the sidewall isn't as forgiving like a slick is. So as JL ws6 said move it up one bolt hole and try it.

-Mark