WANT TO STRETCH MY 245's TO 275!!!!
#3
what the widest rims i can fit on the back wit a wide body and what kinda offset is need for a deep dish rim. i plan on staggered wheels and a widebody. anyone got pics of a cadillac with a m5 wheel style, with the stagger and deep dishes. i plan on dropin 6500 on a rim and tire package.
#4
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ADaniel,
If you're talking about widening your rear rims.... http://www.weldcraftwheels.com/
You'll also need 5mm spacers in the rear.... http://www.wheeladapter.com/
I don't know about the fronts.
If you're talking about widening your rear rims.... http://www.weldcraftwheels.com/
You'll also need 5mm spacers in the rear.... http://www.wheeladapter.com/
I don't know about the fronts.
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what the widest rims i can fit on the back wit a wide body and what kinda offset is need for a deep dish rim. i plan on staggered wheels and a widebody. anyone got pics of a cadillac with a m5 wheel style, with the stagger and deep dishes. i plan on dropin 6500 on a rim and tire package.
Their are not very many wheel options available to V owners because of the 6 lug bolt pattern and the factory off-set. The biggest dish you are going to get will be approx. 2" in the rear, unless you want to run some big spacers.
Why would you want to spend so much on wheels/tires? Go to CCW's website and find some of their sweet forged aluminum wheels for half the price and spend the rest on go-fast mods.
See the pix below for what I am running. From what I have seen, my tire/wheel setup is about as aggressive as you can run and still not have rubbing issues. I am lowered a bit too.
#7
295 is the widest that will fit, even with the fender flares that Specter Werkes makes (BTW - their is no true widebody kit available), I believe.
Their are not very many wheel options available to V owners because of the 6 lug bolt pattern and the factory off-set. The biggest dish you are going to get will be approx. 2" in the rear, unless you want to run some big spacers.
Why would you want to spend so much on wheels/tires? Go to CCW's website and find some of their sweet forged aluminum wheels for half the price and spend the rest on go-fast mods.
See the pix below for what I am running. From what I have seen, my tire/wheel setup is about as aggressive as you can run and still not have rubbing issues. I am lowered a bit too.
Their are not very many wheel options available to V owners because of the 6 lug bolt pattern and the factory off-set. The biggest dish you are going to get will be approx. 2" in the rear, unless you want to run some big spacers.
Why would you want to spend so much on wheels/tires? Go to CCW's website and find some of their sweet forged aluminum wheels for half the price and spend the rest on go-fast mods.
See the pix below for what I am running. From what I have seen, my tire/wheel setup is about as aggressive as you can run and still not have rubbing issues. I am lowered a bit too.
i see nothing wrong in spending a good buck on wheels if it gives you the stance you want.
mine is a bit more aggressive than yours when it comes to the wheel/suspension combo and also sits lower without rubbing issues. those 295s look great from that rear shot!
i've posted many pictures from my photoshoot, but here's a quick snap i took the other day from my phone. car is ridiculously dirty.
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#8
^^^ i love being that low but i tear the **** outta my front because when hitting the smallest bump when turning, the front tire un rolls the fender and cuts my tires!! in the back i have no issues but am only running a 255 tire..
#9
i'm running a 245/30/20 in the front. 360 degree u-turn and no rubbing. one time i heard something as i pulled in to a gas station, but nothing to show for it really. just in case though i pulled the front fenders out a wee bit.
rears are 285/25/20, all 4 nitto invos
i've had 5 people in my car before
rears are 285/25/20, all 4 nitto invos
i've had 5 people in my car before
Last edited by tony tone; 11-16-2009 at 03:49 PM.
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295 is the widest that will fit, even with the fender flares that Specter Werkes makes (BTW - their is no true widebody kit available), I believe.
Their are not very many wheel options available to V owners because of the 6 lug bolt pattern and the factory off-set. The biggest dish you are going to get will be approx. 2" in the rear, unless you want to run some big spacers.
Why would you want to spend so much on wheels/tires? Go to CCW's website and find some of their sweet forged aluminum wheels for half the price and spend the rest on go-fast mods.
See the pix below for what I am running. From what I have seen, my tire/wheel setup is about as aggressive as you can run and still not have rubbing issues. I am lowered a bit too.
Their are not very many wheel options available to V owners because of the 6 lug bolt pattern and the factory off-set. The biggest dish you are going to get will be approx. 2" in the rear, unless you want to run some big spacers.
Why would you want to spend so much on wheels/tires? Go to CCW's website and find some of their sweet forged aluminum wheels for half the price and spend the rest on go-fast mods.
See the pix below for what I am running. From what I have seen, my tire/wheel setup is about as aggressive as you can run and still not have rubbing issues. I am lowered a bit too.
#11
what rotors are those tweeter? out of everything in your sig i don't see that, lol. my brakes are starting to squeek and i've been meaning to change out all the rotors, pads, and lines. also looking for a nice look behind the sexy wheels.
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The brakes are OC Autosport (or Trinet - same company I hear) cross-drilled and slotted for under $400 for all 4 rotors. Then I run Hawk HP pads in rear and HP+ in the front (and they squeal like banshees since I beat the hell out of my car on a full lapping track day a few months ago). If you don't track the car (which based on your set-up you probably don't) I would definitely stick with Hawk HPs all around or just go with the Ferodo stock pads again.
#14
As far as a super low V, you take the cake. That looks very good but I rub on some driveways and approaches as it is (although I have 19s with 30 and 35 series tires, so my overall diameter is something crazy like 25.96" in the rear and 25.47" in the front which makes the car body really low to the pavement). I may try and lowering the car another 0.5"-0.75" in front and 1" in the rear just to see how it sits, but I don't foresee being able to run it like that all the time.
The brakes are OC Autosport (or Trinet - same company I hear) cross-drilled and slotted for under $400 for all 4 rotors. Then I run Hawk HP pads in rear and HP+ in the front (and they squeal like banshees since I beat the hell out of my car on a full lapping track day a few months ago). If you don't track the car (which based on your set-up you probably don't) I would definitely stick with Hawk HPs all around or just go with the Ferodo stock pads again.
The brakes are OC Autosport (or Trinet - same company I hear) cross-drilled and slotted for under $400 for all 4 rotors. Then I run Hawk HP pads in rear and HP+ in the front (and they squeal like banshees since I beat the hell out of my car on a full lapping track day a few months ago). If you don't track the car (which based on your set-up you probably don't) I would definitely stick with Hawk HPs all around or just go with the Ferodo stock pads again.
i know the feeling. there are times when i'm going over speed bumps that i feel them hit the shifter. i'll have my hand on the shift **** and feel it bump up when it hits. that little front lip/debri stopper or whatever it is under the front bumper basically hits everything, but i'm not too worried about that.
and no, i don't track my car
an occasional street race, ah, well maybe.
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i have the same rear wheel size as yours 10x19 285/35/19" tires is 295 the largest size that will fit this rim? i have wondering this myself because i want the widest possible! so i'm thinking of going 1" rear spacers (this is a big step up for me in size there not even on yet my wheels and tires in mail now, car in shop). you know a before and after wheel spacer wedsites
#16
Wouldn't a wheel spacer jeapordize you being able to run a wider tire? I mean, it would be bringing it closer to the fender causing issues with rubbing.
I don't know really, being i'm no expert, but it's just something I would consider.
I don't know really, being i'm no expert, but it's just something I would consider.
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i have the same rear wheel size as yours 10x19 285/35/19" tires is 295 the largest size that will fit this rim? i have wondering this myself because i want the widest possible! so i'm thinking of going 1" rear spacers (this is a big step up for me in size there not even on yet my wheels and tires in mail now, car in shop). you know a before and after wheel spacer wedsites
#18
badcad, any pics of your wheel setup? rear shots? i'm looking to get the B&B exhaust so i'm trying to see as many examples as possible.
do you know how much power you ganied from the B&B setup incl headers?
do you know how much power you ganied from the B&B setup incl headers?
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Here is the rear shot with the 295s:
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...cad/CTS-V4.jpg
Side shot:
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...ad/car1321.jpg
Sorry I can only post links, as for some damn reason Photobucket will not let me post direct pics, and the manage attachments is not working on my computer.
Regarding the gains from a full B&B exhaust, I did not dyno after installs of each, only after I put Maggie on. Most will say that the X-pipe and exhaust may get you 5RWHP max, do it for the sound as that is my reason. Regarding the headers, look for at least 15RWHP, not sure if B&B now has 1 7/8", if not consider Kooks, mating them should be easy for a good shop. My B&B are Gen I, but was only option in late 2004. Went with Kooks on my C6, as I have no doubt they are every bit as good, and I got a deal at like $500 off list. Look into coating the headers, seems to be an obvious inclusion for most.
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...cad/CTS-V4.jpg
Side shot:
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...ad/car1321.jpg
Sorry I can only post links, as for some damn reason Photobucket will not let me post direct pics, and the manage attachments is not working on my computer.
Regarding the gains from a full B&B exhaust, I did not dyno after installs of each, only after I put Maggie on. Most will say that the X-pipe and exhaust may get you 5RWHP max, do it for the sound as that is my reason. Regarding the headers, look for at least 15RWHP, not sure if B&B now has 1 7/8", if not consider Kooks, mating them should be easy for a good shop. My B&B are Gen I, but was only option in late 2004. Went with Kooks on my C6, as I have no doubt they are every bit as good, and I got a deal at like $500 off list. Look into coating the headers, seems to be an obvious inclusion for most.
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I have 275/40s Nitto NT05s on all 4 corners with the GC kit... Have some negative camber in it too, so that helps keep the tires tucked... Before the GC I had a 1/4 spacer on the fronts, now its gone. I have 500/550 springs in it and the front is "full up" ride height adjustment (did this when corner weighing it)
I've autocrossed it all year like that (well the last half only with the GC kit), it does rub sometimes over large bumps in interstate concrete sections, but its just rubbing the plastic inner fender liner.
I've autocrossed it all year like that (well the last half only with the GC kit), it does rub sometimes over large bumps in interstate concrete sections, but its just rubbing the plastic inner fender liner.