TS6

iTrader: (41)

The only weight I can find to remove on my car is over the rear end, and I'm leary of doing it since I'm concerned about traction loss. I have about 50 lbs I can remove. Should I be concerned? Am I better off spending the $$$ elsewhere? I have done pretty much everything else.

custm2500

iTrader: (11)

More info. What is the weight you are looking to take out. Shouldn't cost you money unless you are changing the hatch or something. Also why can't you take weight elsewhere? I am guessing you are un-willing. you have all the seats, carpet, dash pieces, plenty or other things but if you still DD the car you probably don't want to do them. Also 5 lbs isn't going to make a difference. General rule is .01 for 100 lbs so 50 lbs will make no difference because at best it will be .005 so don't worry about 50 lbs anyway.

Top Fuel

iTrader: (8)

its roughly .1 reduction for 100 lbs

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

You can take weight out of the back, but before you do, I would scale the car and get your front to rear bias and corner weights, and be ready to rescale the car once you have the weight out, and you may need to change some other things suspension wise to get it working.

2008 when I stood my car up, over the offseason I had taken about 200 lbs out of the car, 150 of which came out from the firewall forward. The battery, also made it's way into the trunk (went back to a full sized one)

Didn't seem like a big deal right? guess what, car went right up on the bumper first time I bumped the nitrous from a 100 to 150 hit. That was all it took (power wise) to get it to happen...


So, you can, remove weight from any part of a car, you will just have to readjust for it.

Rogue86

iTrader: (14)

Ditch any weight you can. Put a good shock under the car and you'll be fine.

Dave J

iTrader: (2)

take the weight out and if you have a problem put some balast in
again I am not sure if you are talking 5lbs or 150 lbs

TS6

iTrader: (41)

As I posted, I can remove about 50 lbs. This will be via a speedglass rear window and some metal removal.

I have already done pretty much everything else, I assure you.

Dave J

iTrader: (2)

I now see you put that I guess I should read the post better next time

I cant really see 50 lbs making a big differance in traction its not like its a 8 second car or anything

custm2500

iTrader: (11)

Sorry brain fart! I knew this but I am pretty confident that it isn't terribly accurate. I took 260 lbs out and was slower. It was cooler air and still had plenty of traction. My point is I didn't gain anything with a decent amount of weight out. Anyhow 50 lbs isn't going to let you see anything in my opinion.

promod1955

iTrader: (44)

whats your car weigh?

Tommyv8

iTrader: (8)

With all else being equal a lighter car should go faster; it's simple physics. Your car should have seen a significant increase in acceleration with 260 lbs removed.

custm2500

iTrader: (11)

I know loss of weight makes you faster but I don't think it is as effective as many people think it is. Maybe it is just my single experience but like I said I dropped 260 lbs all from the seats forward, didn't spin at all, and wile on two different nights was .2 slower on my best run. Conditions on the night with the lower weight were better because air was cooler and humidity was either same or lower.

Dropping weight will help. 50 pounds won't. Actual weight to et gains who knows.

My 260 was also on a 4000+ lb truck. I started at 4540 and dropped to 4280, so that is .5%, the same weight loss on a 3000 is lb car would be .8% so would make a bit more of a difference.

mrdragster1970

.

Trial and error. I busted my *** and spent big money to get my car down to 2800 lbs.
As I got faster, I ended up putting 200 lbs back to get it down the track.
It was part track and part my car, but at RT 66 I could take it out and run fine.
At another, crap hole track, I had to have it or it was a waste of time.

As mentioned, check the car before and after. It's always better to have weight you can move when needed.

.

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

bingo! some tracks require a greater rear percentage because they are **** holes... i'm glad some one else races at the same **** holes.... lol

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Everyone used to tell me LVD in NY was bad..... but the sig pic somewhat proves that to be

JREX

What shocks are you guys using? I have a 94' Camaro also with a 383 Stroker and I've done everything as far as LCA, Adj Torque Arm and my pinion angle is about a Neg 3, but car doesn't seem to transfer weight and squat. Abt the only thing I can think of preventing better traction are shocks. Thanks for any input. - Jim

Dave J

iTrader: (2)

I keep forgetting you guys alot of those hick 1/8th mile tracks in the states

they prolly dump coke on the track to tack it up instead of vht

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

You dont' want the car squatting if you can avoid it... the car should drive the rear tires into the ground and accellerate.

If you don't hve adjustable shocks, get some. That and a heavy rear swaybar, so the car will leave level and you can adjust the weight jack in the car.

Pinion angle is only really needed to keep the driveline in line when the suspension had deflection due to ploy or rubber bushings and whatnot... if you have rod ended everything in the car -1 degree is probably enough.

Bitemark46

IMO, I would take weight out elsewhere. To me even though its only 50lbs or so by removing it from the rear you are moving your CG forward and most likely you raising your IC and bringing it farther back so it'll hit the tires harder but also unload quicker. But then again its only 50lbs so it might affect the geometry very little.

my $.02

-Mark

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

that would probably be an improvement for some tracks that i race at... lol