Fred99LS1

Guys I'm installing a new Zo6 clutch over my x-mas vacation and I'm curious what you all think I should do next to improve ET/mph alike. My current mods include Moser 12 Bolt-3.73 gears, Metco lower control arms, Hal QA1 rear shocks, poly bushings on suspension, Fan switch, 3" cutout, 3" y-pipe, Flow Master cat back, SLP Air Lid, Free mods, Granatelli Maf & BFG Drag Rad's. This was my time slip from the last time at the track 15-Nov-03 Atco N.J.;
60' 1.860
330' 5.415
1/8 8.289
mph 85.16
990' 10.692
1/4 12.826
mph 109.77

Thx, Fred

quickWS6

28" slicks and 4.56 gears, not sure how that Z06 clutch will like it though. Besides that, time for going into the motor or spray/turbo/blower.

Edit: Saw your Next Mods list: Go ahead and do all of those before the above, IMO.

Bob2of3

iTrader: (11)

How about some front Hals/QA1 shocks, UD pulley, LT headers, Larger rear sway bar

That should keep you busy for a while

LAter

Fred99LS1

How does a larger rear sway bar help straight line performance? I'm curious? I'm not at all saying your wrong, but please explain, Fred

Fred99LS1

4.56 gears would tach what on the street with BFG's P215/16/50's in 6th gear at 70 mph? I don't have to drive the car every day and quite honestly could care less about gas mileage. I want to eventually put heads and a cam on this sucker too. This project car is literally 1 year from completion. I will one day be a 11 second driver as well,lol.

99-LS1-SS

I wondered the same thing. Read this thread and it should help you understand how it helps.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/117016-what-best-upgrade-reduce-wheel-spin.html

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

the larger rear sway bar helps keep your rear evenly planted. The rotation of the motor and torque tend to make the right rear of the side plant harder than the left, in other words when the car does the twist. This will help even that out and make you launch straighter.

99-LS1-SS

Not that it really matters but, you have it backwards. The left (drivers side) tire plants harder which takes pressure off of the right (passenger) tire. That is why cars that have opened rear ends spin the right rear tire. The open rear end sends the power to the tire with the least resistance.

big dave

I think the passenger side rear tire plants harder. Thus the reason why the drivers side front tire comes up first. I could be wrong though...I usually am

02redSS

yeah, you have it backwards

weight will go to the passenger rear...thats why you put an airbag on that side also

SilverGhost

iTrader: (53)

I say do some free stuff to help the car out,too.

Weight reduction, and put the battery in back to help weight transfer, etc.

don't always have to spend money to go a bit faster

Malicious

iTrader: (1)

long tubes, pulley, maybe some LCA's, rearend(especially since its an M6 and you plan on going 11's some day, least with a 9" or 12 bolt you wouldn't ahve to worry about 6000 RPM clutch side steps )

Ackattack1

iTrader: (7)

If you're wanting an 11 sec. car, I'd skp the z06 clutch and go with something a little more sturdy that will stand up to the power you will have. No since of gettting another clutch in less than a year.

With the 3.73 gears, I'd only go with 26" tires. 28" will be too tall. Other than your planned mods, might also think about some hals up front.

Fred99LS1

Guys thanks for all the replies. I do currently have Metco LCA's and a Moser 12 Bolt. As far as not getting the Zo6 clutch setup it's too late. I just recieved the flywheel, pressure plate and clutch disc today. I couldn't pass it up for $285 delivered. GM High Tech said the ASP Pulley showed 0 gain on dyno. I've heard people from the track say it'sw good for a tenth??
Fred

Squintz Palladoris

iTrader: (1)

That clutch may seem to good to pass up untill you got to the track with it. The Z06 is not much better than the stock POS. If you still had the 10 bolt I would be more likely to recommend that clutch to save your rear end. With the 12bolt you will be MUCH happier with something along the lines of a SPEC stg III!

As for the argument of which tire gets driven down: If you are looking at a car that is launching from the rear think about this, The driveshaft is turning counter clockwise(looking from the rear) and the motor tries to twist the other direction. The rear end twists counter clockwise and actually tries to lift the passenger tire while driving the drivers side into the ground. Meanwhile, back at the ranch, the body is twisting with the motor( thats clockwise ) hence the reason for placeing an air bag on the pass side coilspring. As the body rolls or twists clockwise the airbag helps to push down on the pass rear tire (which is trying to lift off the ground). This is also the reason that when you relocate your battery to the rear 9 out of 10 drag racers will agree it goes on the passenger side. A thicker rear sway bar helps this as well.

As for mods I think someone already mentioned some long tubes<==Well worth the money spent. And chassis and suspention mods are definately worth the money now AND down the road when you are makin more power.

Damn! Couple o beers and I'm ramblin. Sorry so long winded.

Brad

Bob2of3

iTrader: (11)

Yes the pulley doesn't show much at all on the dyno but the track is where it shines. A tenth is about what the majority gains

LAter