What's wrong? just snapped my 4th clutch disc...
11-27-2009, 01:00 AM
#1
What's wrong? just snapped my 4th clutch disc... I just snapped my 4th clutch disk in less than a year. The first two were stock clutch discs. The third and fourth one were Zoom kevlar clutch kits. Each time it's only the clutch disk that breaks (cracks at the center all around the toothed hole that the input shaft goes through), the pp and flywheel are fine. Each time I have been torquing everything to spec, resurfacing/replacing the flywheel, and installing a new pilot bearing/bushing. The last time I removed the clutch the pilot bearing was excessively worn out, in only a matter of months. Trans shifts perfectly. Is my transmission to blame (someone mentioned excessive free-play in the input shaft)?
Your help is greatly appreciated, thanks.
Your help is greatly appreciated, thanks.
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11-29-2009, 02:38 AM
#10
No dyno numbers, but I should be ~350 rwhp. I daily drive the car and I beat on it regularly. I do put the car through some abuse, but I don't think that should be breaking a new clutch kit in less than a month. I've had the car for 6 years now and it has 179,xxx miles. My driving habits haven't changed since I bought the car, and although I've only had my new cammed/bolt-on engine recently, it's not a radical set up and I don't think it could solely be responsible for my current issues.
11-29-2009, 07:29 PM
#11
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I would have the tranny checked out for excessive play in the input shaft, then replace the clutch and try again. Might look at the Monster clutch line. They rock!
11-30-2009, 02:06 AM
#12
Well I just removed the clutch and it wasn't snapped like I though. Instead there was some grinding marks all around the outside of the pressure plate. 
I don't know what caused that.
One thing I did notice was that the shifter fork bolt was loose, not a lot, but it was loose. I removed it and locktited it and torqued it down. I installed a new stock clutch kit with pressure plate. Reinstalled everything and now the car is running again. I hope this clutch lasts a while.
I don't know what caused that. One thing I did notice was that the shifter fork bolt was loose, not a lot, but it was loose. I removed it and locktited it and torqued it down. I installed a new stock clutch kit with pressure plate. Reinstalled everything and now the car is running again. I hope this clutch lasts a while.
11-30-2009, 08:39 AM
#14
I assume that since you are referencing a Fork and pivot-ball that you have an LT-1based car. Is this correct?
If so, upon originally reading your post I felt that this could be an issue relative to input-shaft play or a problem with a pilot bearing that is allowing the shaft to move more than normal. This would explain the previous broken discs.
But now you have witness marks on the outside of the plate and this would evidence something contacting the plate during rotation. You reference that the fork was lose...are there any marks on the fork? If the fork was actuating more that it should it could contact the shoulder of the plate which would certainly leave marks marks on the cover. Also, if the fork were bent it could do this as well.
You seem to have already buttoned things back up. If the lose pivot ball was the issue then tightening it up could solve this part of your problem. If you continue to have issues though just let me know and I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks!
If so, upon originally reading your post I felt that this could be an issue relative to input-shaft play or a problem with a pilot bearing that is allowing the shaft to move more than normal. This would explain the previous broken discs.
But now you have witness marks on the outside of the plate and this would evidence something contacting the plate during rotation. You reference that the fork was lose...are there any marks on the fork? If the fork was actuating more that it should it could contact the shoulder of the plate which would certainly leave marks marks on the cover. Also, if the fork were bent it could do this as well.
You seem to have already buttoned things back up. If the lose pivot ball was the issue then tightening it up could solve this part of your problem. If you continue to have issues though just let me know and I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks!
11-30-2009, 10:12 AM
#15
I assume that since you are referencing a Fork and pivot-ball that you have an LT-1based car. Is this correct?
If so, upon originally reading your post I felt that this could be an issue relative to input-shaft play or a problem with a pilot bearing that is allowing the shaft to move more than normal. This would explain the previous broken discs.
But now you have witness marks on the outside of the plate and this would evidence something contacting the plate during rotation. You reference that the fork was lose...are there any marks on the fork? If the fork was actuating more that it should it could contact the shoulder of the plate which would certainly leave marks marks on the cover. Also, if the fork were bent it could do this as well.
You seem to have already buttoned things back up. If the lose pivot ball was the issue then tightening it up could solve this part of your problem. If you continue to have issues though just let me know and I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks!
If so, upon originally reading your post I felt that this could be an issue relative to input-shaft play or a problem with a pilot bearing that is allowing the shaft to move more than normal. This would explain the previous broken discs.
But now you have witness marks on the outside of the plate and this would evidence something contacting the plate during rotation. You reference that the fork was lose...are there any marks on the fork? If the fork was actuating more that it should it could contact the shoulder of the plate which would certainly leave marks marks on the cover. Also, if the fork were bent it could do this as well.
You seem to have already buttoned things back up. If the lose pivot ball was the issue then tightening it up could solve this part of your problem. If you continue to have issues though just let me know and I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks!
11-30-2009, 01:36 PM
#16
That bolt being loose could even be enough to let the fork touch the pressure plate...thats a pretty close fit without anything being loose.
Also, if you're using any sort of shim or anything between the crank and flywheel, that can cause fork contact problems as well.
Another place for you to look, is your transmission and engine mounts. I know it sounds hard to believe, but if the transmission or engine mounts are putting and side load on the tailshaft of the transmission (pulling it to the left or right) that can sometimes cause problems with cluthc discs, input shafts, and/or pilot bearings/bushings too.
Has your engine ever been rebuilt? I've seen a few rare cases where when a rebuilt block was line bored/honed a LOT, the crank is too high relative to the transmission dowel pins, which caused all sorts of issues for the clutch, pilot, input shaft and input shaft support.
Also, if you're using any sort of shim or anything between the crank and flywheel, that can cause fork contact problems as well.
Another place for you to look, is your transmission and engine mounts. I know it sounds hard to believe, but if the transmission or engine mounts are putting and side load on the tailshaft of the transmission (pulling it to the left or right) that can sometimes cause problems with cluthc discs, input shafts, and/or pilot bearings/bushings too.
Has your engine ever been rebuilt? I've seen a few rare cases where when a rebuilt block was line bored/honed a LOT, the crank is too high relative to the transmission dowel pins, which caused all sorts of issues for the clutch, pilot, input shaft and input shaft support.
11-30-2009, 01:44 PM
#17
That bolt being loose could even be enough to let the fork touch the pressure plate...thats a pretty close fit without anything being loose.
Also, if you're using any sort of shim or anything between the crank and flywheel, that can cause fork contact problems as well.
Another place for you to look, is your transmission and engine mounts. I know it sounds hard to believe, but if the transmission or engine mounts are putting and side load on the tailshaft of the transmission (pulling it to the left or right) that can sometimes cause problems with cluthc discs, input shafts, and/or pilot bearings/bushings too.
Has your engine ever been rebuilt? I've seen a few rare cases where when a rebuilt block was line bored/honed a LOT, the crank is too high relative to the transmission dowel pins, which caused all sorts of issues for the clutch, pilot, input shaft and input shaft support.
Also, if you're using any sort of shim or anything between the crank and flywheel, that can cause fork contact problems as well.
Another place for you to look, is your transmission and engine mounts. I know it sounds hard to believe, but if the transmission or engine mounts are putting and side load on the tailshaft of the transmission (pulling it to the left or right) that can sometimes cause problems with cluthc discs, input shafts, and/or pilot bearings/bushings too.
Has your engine ever been rebuilt? I've seen a few rare cases where when a rebuilt block was line bored/honed a LOT, the crank is too high relative to the transmission dowel pins, which caused all sorts of issues for the clutch, pilot, input shaft and input shaft support.
12-01-2009, 04:43 AM
#20
But it still doesn't explain why you keep breaking clutches. Did you use a pilot bushing or bearing this time?
And did you have any issues with those past clutches before they broke?