ls1rulesĦĦĦ

i want to change my diff. oil so i went to autozone and ask to the mannager whats the best diff
oil do yuo have for my Z28 and he tell me get the ac delco diff oil , its true??? im running my stock diff w/o posi. whats your recomendation i dont want a noise in my diff.

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

http://www.amsoil.com/products/gearl...hitePaper.aspx

Amsoil or Mobil 1, I use Mobil 1 75W90 myself, plus the GM LSD additive.

RapidRick

iTrader: (11)

I replaced my Factory Torsen unit that went bad with an Eaton Brand Carbon Fiber Clutch type.(Not the GM Gov-Lok Eaton type).

I just went round and round with this last month. Owner's manual on my '01 F-Body says: Use Synthetic along with Additive. After reading that "white paper" Fluid comparisons, also.

Btw, the EATON instructions do not support synthetic fluid's, but I called Eaton's Techline because they don't promote any synthetics.

In chatting with tech support, I feel it's due to just there being too many with Synthetic offerings with different ingredients and usefulness. But I understood the guy very well when I asked about AMSOIL and the AMSOIL "Slip Lock" additive.
He said, "put it in the rear,and if you have any chatter take it out".

I also got word from a 20 year Driveline Tech who has been using AMSOIL for 4+ years now without issue.
If you're using anything that the factory offered such as the Torsen or Auburn, Gov-Lok, you're good. You also can check your owner's manual to see the same as I did if you still have it.(To use GM Synthetic/GM additive).

It's in now for a about 250 miles and "it's all good". Quiet & smooth including a trip to the Dragstrip.

Bottom Line is that you're non posi, so go less expensive if there is a big difference.

Best regards!

ls1rulesĦĦĦ

thank for the articles guys it help me alot

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Open diff doesn't need anything fancy.

If I'm not mistaken, the Auburn LSD didn't like the synthetic too much (too slippery for the clutches) and needed the friction modifier additive. The Torsen unit is fine with synthetic and doesn't need the friction modifier additive since it is gear-driven, not clutch-based, so the friction modifier wouldn't be any good there.

Correct me if I'm wrong. I just got a torsen rear end, and have some basic Valvoline 80W-90 non-synthetic gear oil with no additive. Seems to be working just fine.

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

I just changed my fluid in March.

Here is what i used:

Valvoline no syn 85w90 - 2 qts
GM LSD Fluid - 4oz
FelPro rear diff gasket
small bead of black RTV silicone

Break all the 10 bolts loose, then pull the bottom 3 out and the oil will start to drain. Once drained out take all the bolts out, clean the inside with brake cleaner. Make sure to get it all out.

When you go to fill it back up, you will need a 3/8" ratchet ONLY. there is a little bolt you need to break loose. It is on the passanger side.

Very easy job to do

black00ssFL

iTrader: (24)

I don't have any input for you for what oil to use, but do want to give you some advice. NEVER TAKE ADVICE FROM AN PARTS PUSHER. They have no knowledge most of the time. They just use a computer that is idiot proof (almost) to find parts and such. Most of them are not car knowledgeable and just push parts/products that they are told because they will get a bonus if they sell the most of that part/product. Very few know what they are doing or talking about.

99WS7

iTrader: (13)

^ agreed....I cant stand when they try tell me something they know nothing about. Some are cool but wow are there a lot of morons at auto parts stores.

to the OP...just regular stinky non syn gear oil like 80w-90 is all you need.

382ssz28

iTrader: (24)

YOU CAN NOT USE SYNTHETIC LUBE WITH CARBON FIBER CLUTCHES!! The recommended lube is 80/90-145 HD lube. Additives are for the STOCK clutch style limited slips diffs. Open or non posi carriers can use any diff oil from 80/90 to synthetic. The Zexel-Torsen-Tru-Trac all can use Synthetic lubes.

Hope this helps.

cabotgsxr

iTrader: (2)

It is true that some auto parts store's hire idot's. I am a manager of a auto parts store and by no means am I stupid. At least my ASE cetification doesnt think i am.

black00ssFL

iTrader: (24)

Some? There are maybe one or two guys in one of those stores that knows anything about cars....and they are usually in the commercial department so you never see them as a regular customer. Do you think you are the norm? Probably not. The majority are idiots and rely on the computer for everything.

RapidRick

iTrader: (11)

YOU CAN USE IT, is what I found. JMO.
Having originally seen that the Owners manual from my car says to use Synthetic & Additive to the rearend diff. (GM of course, I guess since it's a GM sponsered booklet). I went and investigated further, due to my replacing my original "clunking" bad TORSEN unit with an EATON carbon clutch type unit.

Then knowing some F-Bodies came with the lesser GM "GOV-LOK" clutch type Eaton units as I mentioned in an earlier post, I researched, including with two longtime builder's happily using AMSOIL for years in these units. (This even tho the EATON units instructions warn against this.

Now I was still confused so lastly, I then called EATON from one of their website listed phone numbers. I called it and was given another phone # for their Tech-Line.

Basically what I got from my inquiry with Tech Support Rep regarding EATON not reccomending Synthetic Fluid was:
"There's too many synthetics out there, and so due to inconsistancy of result EATON does not recco any.
When I mentioned I wanted to use AMSOIL & the AMSOIL Additive based on a couple of Drivetrain Longtime rebuilder's who have successfully combined Amsoil with their Carbon & Clutch type Posi's I was told:
"Well if you're using Amsoil, take it out if you encounter any problems. Chatter, etc."

I've since had it in my car with no issues, noise or problems even at the track so far, and I race this car in a Challenge Series at our local strip that averages one date per month. Just sharing what I went thru to understand why synthetic was frowned upon by EATON for my situation.

omcar

iTrader: (10)

Hey Rapid Rick- Good Info!
I have a brand new in sealed box Eaton Posi unit #19599-010 for sale-$399.
Let me know if someone down in your parts wants it.
Jay

cabotgsxr

iTrader: (2)

Oh I do agree alot of the people in my profession do just point and click at the screen, and for the most part an idot could do that. But the thing that sets real parts people apart from the avarage guy is the years of experience. As well as people that have chose auto parts as a career and not just a job to get by on. The one's who can do their job without the computers, those are the real parts people.

fleetmgr

Oh so true. The problem is you rarely see those years of experience at the front counter anymore, mostly it's high school kids. The one exception is NAPA, at least in my experience.

An interesting annecdote:
I was tuning up my old John Deere gas tractor, and in the process my old dwell/tach took a dump. Off I go to AZ to see if they have one. The young man behind the counter had this deer in the headlights look at the mention of 'dwell'. He thought I just wanted a tachometer. Amazingly, they did have a dwell tach, and the plastic clamshell packaging was so old that it had turned yellow from age. Worked ok, though.