Generation IV Internal Engine - what kind of oil 402

Had a 402 built,they said that they build them on the loose side, shop told me that my ls1 oil pump ported and shimed would be fine. what grade of oil should i run. 10w40, 20w50 or ???, what brand do you's use. i was using 5w30 mobile synth. i only run the car in summer.

I would break it in on 10w 30 conventional and you can run a 20w50 for some added oil pressure. Valvoline VR1 is a great race oil that you can run more than 500 mile with.

thats what i had in mind, should i see a little more pressure with the 20w50, has anybody seen the difference?

i run 20w 50w in my 408 that G Engines built. it has a high volume oil pump. i am thinking to switching to 10w 40.

I use 15-40 and thats all we use in my shop.

I have been running Rotella T 15w40 in my 416 since day one with no issues at all. Now at 4k miles I'm thinking of going with a synthetic, not sure which one yet. All of the good quality diesel engine oils have a high ZDDP content which is very good for engine break-in. Alot of hi-po engine builders recommend this oil for break-in.

Jimbo

is it ok to keep using that deisel oil 15/40 even after brake in periode?

jmdgto why are you considering going to 10/40?

The 15-40 oils do not have zync in it any more. The epa pulled their crap and with the 07 enission standards on new trucks you cant have zync oils. The cat wont tollerate it. But not to worry 15-40 is fine because our engines have roller cams. Basically zync is meant for high friction areas like cam to lifter contact on flat tappet cams. You can buy EOS supplament from your chevy store or buy ZDDP on line. Never run a 10-40 oil in anything. Rule of thumb is the broader the numbers the less oil the oil has. example 10-30 is a higher oil content to chemical viscosity modifiers. 10-40 has more chemical modifiers then oil. We do run synthetics but got away from it because of the wild cams and profiles we run.

I switched from 10w30 vr1 to 20w50 vr1 and have over 15psi better at hot idle. Motor was set up a little loose. I like the vr1 stuff because of the zddp. (off road use only)

i was looking at castrol synth 20/50 after the engine is broken in.

The 15-40 oils do not have zync in it any more. The epa pulled their crap and with the 07 enission standards on new trucks you cant have zync oils. The cat wont tollerate it. But not to worry 15-40 is fine because our engines have roller cams. Basically zync is meant for high friction areas like cam to lifter contact on flat tappet cams. You can buy EOS supplament from your chevy store or buy ZDDP on line. Never run a 10-40 oil in anything. Rule of thumb is the broader the numbers the less oil the oil has. example 10-30 is a higher oil content to chemical viscosity modifiers. 10-40 has more chemical modifiers then oil. We do run synthetics but got away from it because of the wild cams and profiles we run.

Never run 10-40?? Are you crazy?? You got to come with something different than that for a excuse for not running 10-40. I've ran 10-40 royal purple for the last 6 years with no problems. There is not to much difference between 10-30 and 10-40 anyways. Not enough to make a statement about.

i ran 10w-40 royal purple in only 2 motors both went through rod bearings with in 5 months i hate royal purple and will never use it, i had both motors for 3 years same setup as soon as i use royal purple they had problems and thats the only time ive had problems, that oil is junk and a waste ive heard countless bad things about royal purple have gone thru 2 motors thanx to royal purple, i use ams oil , full synth race oil and never had a problem.

Never run 10-40?? Are you crazy?? You got to come with something different than that for a excuse for not running 10-40. I've ran 10-40 royal purple for the last 6 years with no problems. There is not to much difference between 10-30 and 10-40 anyways. Not enough to make a statement about.

Ok a fiew years ago GM sent out a service bullitin about using 10-40. Once again an oil cant conform to a flow rating of a broad viscosity without VM modifiers. The broader the number 10-40 10-50 the more VM modifiers. And less oil. In the summer I run straight 30 in my engine. 10-40 is a very poor choice for a high performance engine. Tom
.

yea same here ether 10w30 for winter and 15w-40 summer or straight 30 depending on the brand, use to use vr1 sraight 30 but im liking the ams oil and 15w-40

Go with something the EPA doesnt regulate like it does shelf oil. I was told by my builder to use redline or amsoil.

yea same here ether 10w30 for winter and 15w-40 summer or straight 30 depending on the brand, use to use vr1 sraight 30 but im liking the ams oil and 15w-40

I was told you shouldn't be switching back and forth from heavier to thin motor oil. I was told it was very bad for the piston ring wear.

i ran 10w-40 royal purple in only 2 motors both went through rod bearings with in 5 months i hate royal purple and will never use it, i had both motors for 3 years same setup as soon as i use royal purple they had problems and thats the only time ive had problems, that oil is junk and a waste ive heard countless bad things about royal purple have gone thru 2 motors thanx to royal purple, i use ams oil , full synth race oil and never had a problem.

My guess is you had maintenance issues with your ride, because I never had a problem out of Royal purple. Specialy being the fact you went through 2 rod bearings in 5 months. No doubt Amsoil is great but I love royal purple. The only oil that ever gave me any problems was redline.

I was told you shouldn't be switching back and forth from heavier to thin motor oil. I was told it was very bad for the piston ring wear.

So then why do people run multi vis oils??????

There seems to be a lot of mistery about oils. First the W rating on any oil represents a winter oil. An SAE rating is a summer oil and is recommended for temps higher than 45* The service manual explains that. Most engines manuals will not recommend W oils in higher temps with sustained speeds. Changing viscosity will not hurt your engine. But running a multi vis oil in high ambient temps at sustained speeds is a NO NO. For a 4 cylinder grocery getter is fine. But not on a high output engine with high HP. Just my $.02

I find it strange to run multi viscosity oils for break in. I have always used straight weight oil for break in 30w. Once you get some time on the engine, do a leakdown on all of the cylinders to make sure everything has been seated in.
Only after everything looks good on the gages, that is when I switch over to synthetic.
Just my .02¢

I used Rotella t to break in my 402.

I find it strange to run multi viscosity oils for break in. I have always used straight weight oil for break in 30w. Once you get some time on the engine, do a leakdown on all of the cylinders to make sure everything has been seated in.
Only after everything looks good on the gages, that is when I switch over to synthetic.
Just my .02¢

Totally CORRECT never break in a motor with synthetics. Or multi VIS. We always use conventional oil for this. We used to use a lot of synthetics years ago. But lately we have had trouble with radical cam profiles with it. Has any one else experiance this ????

tom falco-sent you a pm. thanks!

I have been running Rotella T 15w40 in my 416 since day one with no issues at all. Now at 4k miles I'm thinking of going with a synthetic, not sure which one yet. All of the good quality diesel engine oils have a high ZDDP content which is very good for engine break-in. Alot of hi-po engine builders recommend this oil for break-in.

Jimbo


That is not entirely true. While they USED to have an abnormally high amount of ZDDP, this year, they had to change because the us govt passed emissions regulations on diesels as well. SO, due to that fact, the diesel oil will have about the same amount that VR1 oil does, which is not very much either thanks to the same problems. For break in, i would recommend at least some good break in additive like GM EOS or a really good break in oil like Joe Gibbs Driven break in oil. it comes in 5-30 or 15-50. you can run it after that, but the additive packages in it are not very agreeable with catalytic converters if ran for a very extended amount of time. they make normal oil after that for reg use, but after that i would switch to a really good dino oil or something of a higher quality in synthetic like syntec or something comparable.

Remember, just because it is more money or works well in a diesel, doesnt always mean it is the best for you.

When my 402 was built, we ran it for 15 min on the initial 10-30, changed it, put 10-30 back in, ran it for another 20 min with a couple light dyno runs @ part throttle, then changed it again, and I've run nothing but 20w50 regular castrol in it since day one. it's had over 60 psi of oil pressure from the start and still does. I change it every track trip, wether I make one pass or 10, and it's come out clean every time. Most I ever went was about 8 track trips and maybe 500 street miles on the same oil... and believe me, that came out clean.

I've sent in oil samples on a periodic basis to check for wear, everything always looks good. I run the oil across a coffee filter when draining it, and I always drain it after warming the car, and it's been clean every time.

I don't run a pcv, just a filtered breather on the crankcase, soon to be a vaccum pump.. and that has shown me no ill effects either.

Valvesprings get changed every year, and the valve covers have been clean, no residue or any signs of anything bad going on there as well.

If you change the oil and filter often enough, you can run pretty much anything it doesn't matter. The zddp count with a roller motor is pretty much irrevelant.

I've also, run a napa gold 6.0 truck filter, the longer one from day one. That is the only filter I've ever used, it's made by wix, and I cut every one of them open as well.. never to find anything worth looking at. I am swapping to a moroso pan with the remote oil filter, that I will go with the biggest filter I can find that works with the remote mount setup... not because it's needed, just because the better you filter the oil, the better off you are.

Wow JL great idea with the coffee filter I got to try that,I run 20/50 vr1 oil and its been great so far.Also always run a good quality brand oil filter K/N,wix or ac delco or mobil 1.Dont use fram They are crap.

If you change the oil and filter often enough, you can run pretty much anything it doesn't matter. The zddp count with a roller motor is pretty much irrevelant.


ZDDP is not just there for hyd flat lifter cams. Yes it helps them break in well, but it helps any surface break in as well. This is not just a formulation to help with lifter break in and thats all. If you could make something that would JUST target that and nothing else, then you are a step above everyone else.

It also helps the rings seat and can help in quite a few other ways as well, like helping the valve springs break in as well.

Using the term "roller motor" is what is irrelevant.