High Mileage Motor!!! Should I head and cam it??
12-09-2009, 02:02 PM
#1
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High Mileage Motor!!! Should I head and cam it?? Ok, I have a 98 TA and it has Almost 200k miles on it. I recently got a 230/224 reverse split cam and a set of 5.3 heads for pretty cheap! The motor runs strong, but I have a oil leak comming from the rear main I believe so i know im gonna take the motor out.Bacsically i wanted to get some expert advice on what I should do on the swap because im alittle short on cash to do a complete rebuild.
12-09-2009, 02:28 PM
#2
Do as much of the supporting mods as you can do, spring kit, pushrods that are the correct length, ls2 timing chain, ls6 oil pump, fuel injectors if cash permits. Lots of people on here have cammed high mileage motors.
12-09-2009, 04:56 PM
#3
I would go ahead and do it, just do all the supporting mods as listed, and keep your oil changed, normal maintenance.
It will also give you an idea of how the car will run with the stock block, so If it does let go, then you will know whether or not to spend the money on a rebuild or chase more cubic inches.
It will also give you an idea of how the car will run with the stock block, so If it does let go, then you will know whether or not to spend the money on a rebuild or chase more cubic inches.
12-09-2009, 05:15 PM
#7
I would say replacing the rod bolts at that mileage might do more harm than good actually (Theres MANY debates on this topic). I would just leave them untouched and not rev past 6500.
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12-09-2009, 05:19 PM
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I personally wouldn't touch that motor until i had the cash to rebuild it... Even though there are alot of ls motors that are cammed at 200+, there are also alot that let go before 100k. I have one of those. Save up so you know it will be solid.
12-09-2009, 05:26 PM
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Ok, ive considered, but what are your suggestions on the oil leak, because Im pretty sure im gonna take the motor out soon to fix that and I figured why not throw the H/C on it while I had it out.
12-09-2009, 05:57 PM
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If its leaking out of the rear of the motor it is most likely the rear main seal plate, rear main seal, or valve cover gaskets... All of which are easily replaced with the motor in the car... The only reason i would pull the motor to fix a leak would be if it was the oil pan gasket leaking... And then i would take it to a shop and let it be their problem!
12-09-2009, 06:08 PM
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Fix the oil leak and throw the cam in at least. Just don't up the compression. The bottom end should hold for a good while. Unless those are worked 5.3 heads they won't flow enough on top anyway.
12-09-2009, 06:15 PM
#15
The first order of business is a compression test and if the motor is coming out I would check your clearances of your bearings. If you are with in specs all the way around then go a head if your not then your asking for trouble. Going the extra mile is a little time consuming but it will save a you a big $$$ head ache later on.
12-09-2009, 06:51 PM
#17
When I saw 200K on a 98 I didn't even read any further. If your thinking about pulling the motor anyway (ok I did read further), put your money into rings, bearings, rod bolts, any machine costs assuming everything else is good. It's a lot smarter to add the heads and cam later which is easily done in the car. THis is like the government thinking they can run healthcare when the roads are jammed and bridges falling apart. DOn't worry about the frivilous things unless the entore thing is disposable to you.
What's the purpose of the car? How long do you expect to have it?
If it has 200k and a rear main leak, do you think the bearings could be worn out or just the seal?
It would suck to have something in the engine let loose and destroy your investment of heads and cam which would have been the rebuild money you already spent. Depending on what goes, then you cold possibly be out the motor as well as the heads and cam.
If your patient you can pick up some cheep ls6 valve springs or 918 and find a baby cam to rebuild it with. Milling the heads should bump the compression nicely for the new rings. Those are 67-68 cc heads anyway, so you could take .021 off them to take out 3 cc and get the 10.5:1 which makes a world of differnece.
How do you think the clutch is, with heads and cam will it hold or are you going to have to get $$ tied up in a clutch before the rebuild.
Hey, maybe a "little old lady" put the first 200k on the car, but it still went 200k. I didn't see anyone posting up saying they put heads and cam on a 200K engine. If there's anyone out there who has, and it turned out great, then that would be something worth going by.
Do you have rockers? 98's spilled bearings, although at 200K... maybe they are good, but good enough for the new heavier springs and big lobe cam?
98's had 28# fuel injectors, get new o rings and call it quits because thay should be good to 450 rwhp. Oil pump, lq4 (high volume truck pump is cheeper) or ls6 pump, ls2 timting chain (melling is better), ect ect you should measure for pushrods. Maybe lifters, see if you can find any newer with fewer miles, heck I have mine with 40K on them from my 97.
THe good thing about where you are is that you can pick up something with 50K miles on it that some one took off because they were upgrading and it's compairably "new". Maybe the situation withthe heads.
Do you still have the stock intake manifold and exhaust?
However if the car is disposable to you, be blinb bling and go for the heads and cam.
Last edited by dmiz0420; 12-09-2009 at 06:58 PM.
12-09-2009, 09:45 PM
#18
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Ok ok Ok!! So the general consensus is that I shouldnt head and cam it...even if I had the bare necessities of the oil pump, timing chain, pushrods rod bolts and if the compression checked out good......all because of the high mileage......ok I gotcha!!
Oh and the car is a A4, rebuilt, 3600 stall and mid-length headers. The car is a TRUE daily driver. I bought it at the first this year and put about 35k miles on is it (Highway about 70-80 miles a day) When I had the converter installed I had the guy to replace my rear main seal. Now, my only idea is that he didnt do it correctly or i have a leaking oil sending unit, valve covers, yada yada.....IDK!
The heads are worked and ready to bolt on!
Oh, and I wasnt under the impression that this was a BIG LOBE cam!! and it has lift of .575/.563!!
The only reason I havent considered a rebuild is because the prices to get it rebuilt "The Right Way" are way more than I wanna spend on a stock build. So I was tryna get some ideas on what I should do with the heads and cam I have here since I was going to drop the motor out.
Oh and the car is a A4, rebuilt, 3600 stall and mid-length headers. The car is a TRUE daily driver. I bought it at the first this year and put about 35k miles on is it (Highway about 70-80 miles a day) When I had the converter installed I had the guy to replace my rear main seal. Now, my only idea is that he didnt do it correctly or i have a leaking oil sending unit, valve covers, yada yada.....IDK!
The heads are worked and ready to bolt on!
Oh, and I wasnt under the impression that this was a BIG LOBE cam!! and it has lift of .575/.563!!
The only reason I havent considered a rebuild is because the prices to get it rebuilt "The Right Way" are way more than I wanna spend on a stock build. So I was tryna get some ideas on what I should do with the heads and cam I have here since I was going to drop the motor out.
12-10-2009, 09:07 AM
#19
Sorry man, at the time I posted it seemed like there were a lot of "go for it" responses, and in that time others chimed in to reinforce before I posted.
That isn't a big cam, the newer ones have over .600 lift. on the intake.
There's nothing wrong with putting the heads and cam on if you already have them, but their installation should be simultaneous with the rebuild. Indications are there is something going on with the back of the engine if this is the second seal that is leaking. They can be tricky to install without the proper tools or removing the rear cover.
That isn't a big cam, the newer ones have over .600 lift. on the intake.
There's nothing wrong with putting the heads and cam on if you already have them, but their installation should be simultaneous with the rebuild. Indications are there is something going on with the back of the engine if this is the second seal that is leaking. They can be tricky to install without the proper tools or removing the rear cover.