Dickie-311

iTrader: (1)

looking to find out what guys are using for drivshafts .. custom or something out of another car/truck that was shortened .

crazygn

iTrader: (6)

i had a custom one made with 1350 u joints, think it cost me around 350 give or take , i had the front yoke also

Dickie-311

iTrader: (1)

.......

Isolde

iTrader: (4)

I'm doing an LM7 into '89 Mustang, and I'm using a 4L60E, for now. Future plans call for a Tremec TR3650. But until then, I'm starting with the driveshaft from a '91 Camaro RS 305/700R-4. The transmission end is already correct, and the length seems close so far, but the snow arrived before I could get it in. Before I moved to Utah, I worked in a driveshaft shop in Georgia, eventually becoming the manager. So whatever you'd like to know, feel free to ask. With the TR3650, I'll be going with 3"-OD, 0.083"-wall steel tubing. I'd call that a good safe minumum for mild boost, a manual trans, and drag radials.

BAMF GT

What method are you using to mate the TR3650 to the GM motor? I've been trying to find info on this for over a year, searching every day and calling everyone.

Isolde

iTrader: (4)

I'm not knowledgeable about Ford's "Modular" engines, but if they have the same bellhousing pattern as the older Ford 5.0L V8, then just use the adapter plate from www.tciauto.com, either as a plate or as a pattern for a 1/8" steel adapter plate. If it's not the same, there must be existing adapter plates to adapt between between Modular and pre-Modular. This would require making an extra plate. But even so, that's the easiest way for the average enthusiast to get it aligned close enough. The final step is using offset dowels, if needed, and a dial indicator, or there's another method if you have a spare engine block with main caps. Use PVC pipe, plus some lathe work, to make a centering jig. This sounds imprecise, but that's why the lathe work. The idea here is the OD is a snug fit in the mains, while the ID matches the input shaft of the trans.
These methods have proven widely successful in the Fiero world, the most engine-swapped car, ever.
I settled on the TR3650 because it's cheap, available, and strong enough for me. I'm going with the '02-'04 tans, with the '05-'06 HTOB, connected to stock GM master clutch cylinder. I'll do a thread when the snow melts in a few months.

Paul57

I am curious what your experience has been with the 1310 u-joint...how much hp/torque will they take with street tires or drag radials???
Will an aluminum driveshaft lower ET by much in a 12.5 second (ish) car???

xpndbl3

iTrader: (23)

i'd build a 1350 custom driveshaft IMO, having a stocker snap on you will cost more in repairs to trans, floorpan, rear, etc than any type of savings.

getsum27

when i did my swap i used the t56 trans and i took the driveshaft to a local shop and i already had my measurements and trans yoke
i had them shorten it to where it needed to be and add new u joints the front one is half ford and half chevrolet... im not sure about the part number.....
both u joints. installed.... shortening the driveshaft.. and balancing all came out to 120.00 if i remember correctly

Dickie-311

iTrader: (1)

yup using a 6spd you can shorten the stang driveshaft, but the th400/200r4 transmissions are 1.5 shorted then the t-5

Isolde

iTrader: (4)

Most of the '85-up Mustangs use 1330 joints, and these are fine for a 3200 pound car, tree weight, running an 11.0 on drag radials. Tree weight is the local term for what you actually have sitting in the beams, watching the "christmas tree", at the dragstrip.
At this level, an aluminum shaft is not inherently bad. But if you're going to have one built, go overkill and never worry again.
I just noticed you mentioned a TH400. Short tail or long? For that trans, most GM slip yokes are N3R, while most aftermarket are 1350. Finding a 1310 for that is so unlikely. If you want to try a long-tail TH400 with a shortened 5.0 Mustang driveshaft, you can get a conversion style u-joint to go from N3R to 1330, but if you're making enough power to need a TH400, then you're making enough power to need a custom driveshaft.