Gears & Axles - 8.8 worth the trouble

I used to be a fan of trying to build a bulletproof 10bolt. Partly because i like to fabricate and problem-solve and i don't have 2gs$ to spend on a nice 12bolt or 9inch. I have done a lot of reading and it seems that fabing an 8.8 from a mustang is the way to go. It is affordable and allows me to do some fabrication which i like( also 10bolts are crap). I do have some concerns however so i would love input from any guys running these.
Does anyone know exactly how much power these will take stock and what about a built. My car right now is just a heads cam car but will be recieving a turbo 408 motor next winter. My next concern is drive a six speed and wouldnt have it any other way so i know i will be stressing it pretty good. I know their several ways to set them up, 4 link, traction bars or with the torque arm. i would like the best of both worlds, one that will handle and hook good at the track. Also, of the three, which is the easiest to set up and which one is the best for for handling and launching. Oh and before i forget the turbo 408 will probably put down somewhere in the neighborhood of 700-800rwhp. Thanks in advance for the input and help guys

I am doing my build of the plentiful 8.8 however it can be done with the 8.5 10-bolt,12-bolt etc.. the 8.8 comes out less expensive due to the gear ratios and lockers found in salvage vehicles.. i have 850.00 invested in mine including purchase price,girdle from trick flow,moser axles and welding

check this link
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axles/1158209-8-8-build.html

yeah that was one of the 8.8 threads i read. I agree with you about the bountifulness of 8.8 along with the aftermarket following they have. with his build in the link i believe he went the traction bar set up. I have heard of others going with the torque arm set up and just curious as to whats easier. I'm also curious as to how well an explorer rearend would work. if it has longer axle tubes than say mustangs. any way keep posting here guys as well as adding links. it would be cool if we could get several threads links in here and possibly do diy writeup for sticking 8.8's in f-bodys

nobody but else has anything to add?

I know there are guys running 8's in the 1/4 with an 8.8

yeah i know that can definately take the abuse. I'm going to start on my in a few weeks and do the same ladder bar setup as the one in the link posted on here. that guy has a ton of good info and his ladder bar setup can be pieced together from jegs for close to 80$. When i do it I will attempt to do a write up. lol.

we run a 8.8 in our GTO and push just about 1,000 HP thru it and run low 9s at 154 mph and have had no problems with it....Frank

http://www.g-forcesuspension.com/pages/catalog/i.php/81/55

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axles/1158209-8-8-build.html

How does this setup handle in curves? Is this basically just for drag racing?

I had setup a Fox body for drag. It rode like a cadi. it was the best riding Fox I ever had.

But IT SUCKED when you hit a bump. I always bottomed the exhaust out.

Fox's always are terrible in turns and rain. Suprisingly, it was much better in the rain for turns. But if you tried to burn a curve. You better know the make and model of the casket you want.

If it keeps the same handling, I may go this route.

Anyone know?

So you have to switch to a ford bolt pattern?? Any way of keeping stock wheels?

If you had custom axles made you could run a gm bolt pattern from what i have found out but it seems more cost effective to just switch over to ford spacing depending on the deals you come across. In 98slivertacrbn 8.8 build he says the car handles great and without sway bars or ta. It seems like the ladder arms are the easiest and cheapest way to go from what i have seen.
My first gto what style of set up are you running ladder bars, 4 link or a torque arm and congrats on the bad ass car

Im doing this with a 8.8-31spline mini spool
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/RandyWS6/MOV009.jpg

I have a 02 s10 with a cammed ls1 in it and just did an 8.8 swap. I just had a set of axles made for it so I kept chevy lug pattern and like in the build up there I just drilled the holes in the rotor out cause the hub centers them. Also stock driveshaft works with a crossover joint

OK but what about the width of the rear end so that its compatible with stock wheels....?????

No, You will need custom axles made, I just cut the axle tubes of my GM rear end and welded them to the 8.8 housing

If you had custom axles made you could run a gm bolt pattern from what i have found out but it seems more cost effective to just switch over to ford spacing depending on the deals you come across. In 98slivertacrbn 8.8 build he says the car handles great and without sway bars or ta. It seems like the ladder arms are the easiest and cheapest way to go from what i have seen.
My first gto what style of set up are you running ladder bars, 4 link or a torque arm and congrats on the bad ass car

The GTO is an IRS rear set up....

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p310/rocksandracing/ProFab2024.jpg

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p310/rocksandracing/DSC01898.jpg

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p310/rocksandracing/DSC01899.jpg

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p310/rocksandracing/DSC01900.jpg

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p310/rocksandracing/WallyAndnIcolesPictures2009Hawai-17.jpg

that is badass, and to think most people don't think irs can take the abuse. that had to be a bitch to fab but i havent delt that much with irs. Will be picking up a scrap 10 bolt housing this week to start on my 8.8. Decided to go with the mini ladder setup and the torque arm. I should have a complete 8.8 this week as well.

just picked up my spare 10 bolt to hack up so i can sell mine and picked up a 96 cobra rear end with a 4.11 gear. will be able to start this week hopefully. So far i have 35$ in the 10 bolt housing and 150$ for the mustang rear with blown spider gears which is okay since i am upgrading to 31 spline axles and will buying a new posi unit or possibly a mini spool

http://www.g-forcesuspension.com/pages/catalog/i.php/81/55

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axles/1158209-8-8-build.html

How does this setup handle in curves? Is this basically just for drag racing?

I had setup a Fox body for drag. It rode like a cadi. it was the best riding Fox I ever had.

But IT SUCKED when you hit a bump. I always bottomed the exhaust out.

Fox's always are terrible in turns and rain. Suprisingly, it was much better in the rain for turns. But if you tried to burn a curve. You better know the make and model of the casket you want.

If it keeps the same handling, I may go this route.

Anyone know?

It's not to bad in the curves i take 45 mph turns at 70 still with big ang littles

So you have to switch to a ford bolt pattern?? Any way of keeping stock wheels?

I have chevy pattern axles and going to run speedlines with spacers for the stealth look

are you guys running chevy or ford brakes in the rear if what how

are you guys running chevy or ford brakes in the rear if what how

Ford 94 Mustang

Im running the WS6 brakes & rotors ,My 8.8 rearend, even has the GM axle tubes that is welded to the 8.8 housing. So i didnt haft to worry about aliening all the suspension brackets, just setup to stock specs.

how well do think the axles tubes will hold up. I'm assuming yours has gussets and what not and it seems that just hacking off the 10bolt axles tubes and welding them on to the 8.8 would be infinately easier and you would end up with the correct length diff and be able to retain ls1 brakes with out any additional drilling. Did you use a sleeve to weld the tubes on randy or did just weld to the stumps, very curious because i think i will be going this route just want to make sure it will take the 600 or 700rwhp i eventually plan on throwing at it. I'm guessing by your times though it will

I'm a fan... years of abuse and 7K dumps at the track

I'm a fan... years of abuse and 7K dumps at the track

I read one of your original thread and that is awesome. I am curious about how you welded the 10 bolt tubes to the 8.8 housing though. it appears you didnt use any sleeves which leads me to believe that ethier the 10 bolt tubes are small enough to fit into the stumps off the 8.8 or you just butted them up agaist each other and their was enough steel in contact to get a good bead for the tubes. I will welding the tubes on just as you have and hopefully using a torque arm as well.
I talked to a welding supply house and they said that if the housing is cast iron to use a nickel plated electrode and preheat the area to be welded to approimately 500 degrees. I think if people are miging the housing though then it must be cast steel b/c cast iron is really shitty metal especially for welding

I read one of your original thread and that is awesome. I am curious about how you welded the 10 bolt tubes to the 8.8 housing though. it appears you didnt use any sleeves which leads me to believe that ethier the 10 bolt tubes are small enough to fit into the stumps off the 8.8 or you just butted them up agaist each other and their was enough steel in contact to get a good bead for the tubes. I will welding the tubes on just as you have and hopefully using a torque arm as well.
I talked to a welding supply house and they said that if the housing is cast iron to use a nickel plated electrode and preheat the area to be welded to approimately 500 degrees. I think if people are miging the housing though then it must be cast steel b/c cast iron is really shitty metal especially for welding

Don't remove the tubes from the 8.8 housing , cut them off about 3" from the housing. The 8.8 tubes are a little bigger than the 7.5 , Cut the tubes off the 7.5 as close as you can to the housing then slide them inside the 8.8 tubes to the desired length ,and weld them together. That's is what i done and has been there for over 4 years now, So i would say it works fine, and in my post (pic) above you can see it will handle the torque.

Don't remove the tubes from the 8.8 housing , cut them off about 3" from the housing. The 8.8 tubes are a little bigger than the 7.5 , Cut the tubes off the 7.5 as close as you can to the housing then slide them inside the 8.8 tubes to the desired length ,and weld them together. That's is what i done and has been there for over 4 years now, So i would say it works fine, you can see it will handle the torque.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/RandyWS6/MOV009.jpg

outstanding randy. Thanks for the feedback it appears this may be even easier than i thought it would be. Oh and I will def. buy one of those posi units i just want to wait til i finish the housing.

Can you run a 31 spline axle on the stock 10 bolt tubes?

subscribed

anyone have pictures of their 8.8 with welded 10 bolt axle tubes? Im really starting to think this is do-able and i would love to see something to work from

i asked this in the other 8.8 thread but thought i would ask here as well. what axles are you running with the 8.8 with the 7.5 tubes welded on?

i asked this in the other 8.8 thread but thought i would ask here as well. what axles are you running with the 8.8 with the 7.5 tubes welded on?

Custom axles chevy lug pattern ford splines depending on which differential unit you have.

so just get some axles for an 7.5 fbody just have them use 8.8 ford splines? just want to make sure they will work with the axle bearings that fit the 7.5 tube. and then you could use a regular 7.5 c-clip eliminator kit correct?

I had Moser to cut me a set of axles with factory f-body length with my 4 channel ABS rings,with 8.8 31 splines

randy so are you using an fbody c-clip eliminator kit?

No, I drag race, and i was told that there not that important ,but if i was autocross racing then it a must because of the side loads that put on the axles and C-clips. Ive been drag racing on and off the track for years and never seen a c-clip or axle button brake. But that just me, but they might have.Most only drag car dont run a c-clip becouse they mosty run a 9" or Dana rears

cool if you can cut some 1.3x short times without them, then i dont think ill be spending the money on them. lol

randy i finally got started on my rear end build. I cut the tubes off the 8.8 but they are to big to fit in the 8.8 stumps. Do i have to grind them or is their some trick to it. also inside the 8.8 is a seam the sticks up an 1/8 of an inch. I just figured i could stick a small die grinder in there and know down it so it would be even. what year are the parts you used an d what vehicle are they from? My 8.8 housing is from a 96 cobra and i am unsure of what my 10 bolt was from. If mine don't fit we are going to fabricate sleeves to put on the housing to to strengthen the weld seam. thanks for your help.

hey guys new update. Just finished the sleeves today after work. they seem to fit good. I just have to knock the welds down on the inside of the housing tubes and the 10 bolt tube. we are still kicking around ideas for how to make the jig and hopefully have everything welded this weekend

Post some pics! Keep us posted!

Subscribed as well...I need an alternative to 2500+ dollar rear ends :)

Are the axle diameters the same even though the little 10 bolt has 28 splines??? Do ford 31 spline axles fit into the 10 bolt axle tubes with the stock bearing and seal?

i actually took pics of the sleeves just forgot the camera at the shop! Will have them up in the next day or so. As far as the axles go I forgot what i was told about the bearing but i know you order the axle for a ford 31 spline carrier, stock chevy 10 bolt length with a chevy bolt pattern. I think you do have to change the seals and bearings but i'm not sure. This is ethier discussed in this thread or the 8.8 build thread.

ok i know i have been lazy. pics will be up tonite and i will be welding it up tonite! the housing will be all finished today i will be getting axles for it shortly.

i actually took pics of the sleeves just forgot the camera at the shop! Will have them up in the next day or so. As far as the axles go I forgot what i was told about the bearing but i know you order the axle for a ford 31 spline carrier, stock chevy 10 bolt length with a chevy bolt pattern. I think you do have to change the seals and bearings but i'm not sure. This is ethier discussed in this thread or the 8.8 build thread.

On my 8.8" & GM 10bolt axles, I used the stock10 bolt axle bearings & seals with my Moser axles

are the axles the same diameter as the ford 8.8s or are the axles made to be the diameter of chevy size with ford 31 splines at the end?

here are the pics. Nothing is welded but i wanted to show a mock up. When i attempt to do a write up i will throw out a very detail description of everything. The fresh cut steel are the sleeves i machined on a lathe from a solid chunk of steel. the tubes on the housing were cut 4 inches on each side and the 10 bolt tubes were cut up against the housing. they need to be trimmed two inches off each side to get the stock length

Subscribing!

-SS

here are the pics

are the axles the same diameter as the ford 8.8s or are the axles made to be the diameter of chevy size with ford 31 splines at the end?


My axles came with GM specs ,but had ford 31 splines

You will need to cut off the ears on the 8.8" , they will hit the tunnel

yea thats what i figured plus they are ugly as shit. lol. computer not letting me add the rest of my pics. I'll try tomorrow i have about 10 more. Oh and the sleeves slide all the way in except for a 1/4 inch lip i left to weld on to. I just wanted to show where the cuts were and where the welds would be thats why so much material is still showing

massconfusion would you fab more sleeves?
how much?

well guys i keep trying to upload the rest of my pics but computer is being a bitch so i will have my friend do it from his in the next day or so.
On a side note we have also added a new feature on the sleeves. knurling. we knurled the side that goes into the 10 bolt axle tube. when we mock up everything we are going to check the alignment of the tubes to the housing but their maybe little need for very accurate jig. hoping that the tolerances should align everything almost perfect creating very little room for error




massconfusion would you fab more sleeves?
how much?
the thought had crossed my mind. Not to make money really but to give guys the opportunity to build this set up. I have to check in to a couple things like how much appropriate dom tubing would cost. The only reason i would maybe a little hesitant is i am not an actual machinist. I have been trained to run lathes, endmills, surface grinders etc. by my uncles who were formans at their respectable shops. I would just feel bad if i sent one out that didnt fit someones housing or 10 bolt tubes right because their is bound to be variation. chances are i will though cause i know very few people have access to this equipment and a machine would charge an arm and a leg for two peices. I will post a price after i check out tubing prices and continue to update this. hopefully it will get welded this week, taking the tubes in tomorrow to get sandblasted

It would be nice to have them available from someone who has used them,and knows the size they need to be.
I don't have access to the machines to be able to make the sleeves.
I look forward to hearing back about what you find out.

those sleeves look great, let me know if you wanna make another set soon otherwise I'll probably have one of the guys I know do it for me. Keep up the good work :)

So would an explorer rear work if your gonna cut the tubes anyway? I know the axles lengths are different but what about the pumpkin? It appears they don't have the ears and you need the 31 spline trac lok carrier anyway...so why not buy the whole housing from an explorer and use it?

what about 8.8s that are in the 2009 mustangs? also can we widen the rear .75 on each side so i can fit 315s? would the axles from moser be anymore expensive to do this?

found this pics of the torque arm mount found it in a different post. hope it helps

So would an explorer rear work if your gonna cut the tubes anyway? I know the axles lengths are different but what about the pumpkin? It appears they don't have the ears and you need the 31 spline trac lok carrier anyway...so why not buy the whole housing from an explorer and use it?

I think you could make it work but I haven't seen or heard from anyone using one just yet. The explorer rear is offset and its just easier and lighter to use a mustang rear.

what about 8.8s that are in the 2009 mustangs? also can we widen the rear .75 on each side so i can fit 315s? would the axles from moser be anymore expensive to do this?

I don't believe they are the same.

You guys know you don't NEED a 31 spline t-loc right? You could go the cheapest route and use a 28 spline t-loc and your 10 bolt axels from what I'm told as the 10 bolts are 28 spline as well.

i LOVE my 8.8!

massconfusion - Not sure if you posted it somewhere, but could you give the spec/dimension for the sleeve you built?

Ive got the tools to produce the same piece, just need to know sizing (ID/OD on both ends etc)

So would an explorer rear work if your gonna cut the tubes anyway? I know the axles lengths are different but what about the pumpkin? It appears they don't have the ears and you need the 31 spline trac lok carrier anyway...so why not buy the whole housing from an explorer and use it?

the explorer axle will work.It is heavier than the mustang axle.It will rob a little more power than the mustang's axle because of the weight.
How much? Idk

The housing should work just fine , Its a little bigger, It holds a bout a quart more of oil than the Mustang rear. The Moser axles are the same dia. as the stock 31 splines that come out of the explorer, But the tube dia. maybe a little different. So you (might) need a sleeve to compensate for the different diameter of the axle tubes.

Hey Randy what rear cover are you using? I'm looking to buy an aftermarket girdle but I want it to clear the spohn drag bar.

I use the T/A low profile support cover for my 8.8 ,Works grate and clears my Spohn drag bar. The pic above of the torque arm mount is what i have,Works grate and has been on the rear for over 4 years now. And has been tested over and over with plenty of wheel stands.

Randy, how much space was there between the 10 bolt and 8.8 when you slid the axle tubes in each other?

So your saying if we use a 28 spline trac loc we can use our stock 28 spline 10 bolt axles and not have to order custom axles from moser?

i would get moser just the fact you can still twist an axel

So your saying if we use a 28 spline trac loc we can use our stock 28 spline 10 bolt axles and not have to order custom axles from moser?

thats what I have been told, but im not sure how long the posi will hold ya, how many people break 28 spline axels?

Any body know the difference between axle/tube length on each side of the Explorer
8.8's? I've sourced one already but can't check it out until Monday. I'm going to try and get another one from a Ford fox car also. Keep up the good info guys, thanks.

-SS

Just wondering ,why do you need to know the difference for ? Are you planing on cut them off to weld your f-body tubes on ? If so, just cut them off equal length.

Any body know the difference between axle/tube length on each side of the Explorer
8.8's? I've sourced one already but can't check it out until Monday. I'm going to try and get another one from a Ford fox car also. Keep up the good info guys, thanks.

-SS

i'm with randy on this. If you are going to go our route than yes you can use an explorer rear end. this is ideally the way to go b/c they have steeper gears than the mustangs usually and the new ones have 31 spline carrier units. Sorry i have been away for so long. went on a snow boarding trip this week to Wisconsin dells. definately going to weld the tubes on this weekend

post the specs tomorrow dont know them off the top of my head

does anyone know what year they started using the 31 spline units in the explorers?

does anyone know what year they started using the 31 spline units in the explorers?

I know for sure 96 and up

Hope you enjoyed the Dells, visited last year while in the area for HRPT, nice area!

BACK TO TOPIC, I'm staying glued to your thread for updates. Randy, I was asking for another application, my 25' Roadster P/U. I'm gonna pick up 2, have one found already. Thanks guys.

-SS

dells are cool, when u live in Chicago it aint shit cause its so close. Its like going to mexico for you hotrod. By the way i was in texas the past two years for work and whataburger is awesome(noticed you live where the hq is).

Back to business guys the specs are as follows 2.490 for the i.d of the ford tubing and the chevy is 2.210. On my sleeves we went 2.475 which worked well and the other was 2.2. We knurled the Chevy side though because fitment was a little sloppy so we wanted to raise it but is not necessary. I strongly recommend measuring yours as i am sure they will vary several thousandths. I have decided i will make sleeves for the guys that wanted them. Still not sure about price thinking like a 100$ a set. I still need to find out how much the tubing is. hope that helps

What about the opening through the center how thick did you leave them? I assume you had to drill a hole through the center for the axels how big did you go? $100 sounds fair for the sleeves but I can make them for free so thats what I'll be doing :)

the center hole is 1.8. we drilled a 1 inch hole first and then had to turn the rest down with a bore cutting tool. we didnt have a bigger drill bit. that should allow plenty of gear oil to flow you should run a little extra though b/c of the 1/4 the tube will be raised now

good luck detroit muscle

Cool, I'll probably have some questions once I get into mine, although it seems pretty straight forward. Has anyone ever added a back brace to these 8.8's like a lot do with the 9"ers?
Yea, I dig the WB too! :D

-SS

good luck detroit muscle

thanks a lot, I have drill bits up to 1 7/8" but probably not enough length. My dad was also a lathe hand in his younger years so I should be able to learn a thing or two and make them up :) You said you made them 4" on each side? I would assume so because I know you cut off the 8.8 tubes at 4".

I know for sure 96 and up

ok and would it matter if it came from an v8 or v6 car? i imagine i can find one in the junk yard locally but need to know for sure what i am buying will be a 31 spline posi.

dells are cool, when u live in Chicago it aint shit cause its so close. Its like going to mexico for you hotrod. By the way i was in texas the past two years for work and whataburger is awesome(noticed you live where the hq is).

Back to business guys the specs are as follows 2.490 for the i.d of the ford tubing and the chevy is 2.210. On my sleeves we went 2.475 which worked well and the other was 2.2. We knurled the Chevy side though because fitment was a little sloppy so we wanted to raise it but is not necessary. I strongly recommend measuring yours as i am sure they will vary several thousandths. I have decided i will make sleeves for the guys that wanted them. Still not sure about price thinking like a 100$ a set. I still need to find out how much the tubing is. hope that helps

Cool man just let me know whenever you get around to making them and final price, I have been looking into this swap for a while. I got 3 spare 8.8s from back in my fox body years. LOL.

Also, how did you do your T.A. mount? Are there any tricks to welding so much on the housing?

thanks a lot, I have drill bits up to 1 7/8" but probably not enough length. My dad was also a lathe hand in his younger years so I should be able to learn a thing or two and make them up :) You said you made them 4" on each side? I would assume so because I know you cut off the 8.8 tubes at 4".

actually we made them 3 inches long on each side for a total length of 6. I just cut them off at 4 instead of 3 like randy suggested to give my self a little extra room in case i made a mistake somewhere down the line

As for the t/a mount we didnt weld that yesterday just the tubes. i will try and get pics up asap. I myself am a visual learner and can never have to many pics. lol

ok and would it matter if it came from an v8 or v6 car? i imagine i can find one in the junk yard locally but need to know for sure what i am buying will be a 31 spline posi.

not sure if it matters but i bet it does. I would look for v8s cause they always get the beefier componets

not sure if it matters but i bet it does. I would look for v8s cause they always get the beefier componets

I am pretty sure the v6 models got the 31 spline carriers also, but you could always open the cover and look

You guys on here have given me hope for my 8.8 also seeing randy's picture of his car standing on the rears. I bought one for a 100 bucks and chopped the brackets off leaving a good amount of tube on the 8.8 but then lost interest and was looking for a 12bolt or 9inch now I'm reconsidering keep up the good work and information.

I am pretty sure the v6 models got the 31 spline carriers also, but you could always open the cover and look

yeah but i would have to pull at least 1 axle to count the splines, unless there is some markings on the carrier im not aware of?

I myself am a visual learner and can never have to many pics. lol

X2 I have been really thinking hard about hacking up one of the spare 8.8s and I know where a 10 bolt is out of a LT1 car I can get for CHEAP.

On witht the pics!! Also what did you use to make the tubes where the bolts go through for the torque arm mount.

Subscribed. You guys have got me considering building one of these hybrid rear ends

X2 I have been really thinking hard about hacking up one of the spare 8.8s and I know where a 10 bolt is out of a LT1 car I can get for CHEAP.

On witht the pics!! Also what did you use to make the tubes where the bolts go through for the torque arm mount.

As you can see in the pics on the last page most people use some round steel tubing for the bolt holes and then box it in with steel plate, the same tubing or square stuff is then used to connect it to the housing itself.

Click back a page or two, there are two pics of it.

Can anyone tell me how long the driveshaft needs to be with an M6 and an 8.8? I'm going to have one made. Thanks.

Can anyone tell me how long the driveshaft needs to be with an M6 and an 8.8? I'm going to have one made. Thanks.

My stock driveshaft worked with my conversion. You just need to get a crossover u-joint
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd213/99saleencrbn/DSC_1509.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd213/99saleencrbn/DSC_1511.jpg

My stock driveshaft worked with my conversion. You just need to get a crossover u-join
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd213/99saleencrbn/DSC_1509.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd213/99saleencrbn/DSC_1511.jpg
What he said :D stock length for me also.

Randy what did you go with on your rearend torque arm or the 4 link lower control arms, sorry if asked eariler in the tread.

I have the Sphon mid length torque arm.

i just got an 8.8 with the torque arm bracket welded on, an it appears that who ever made it welded 7.5 tubes with all the brackets to the 8.8 center section. I got just the housing from a local swap meet for 40$ so i figured for that price id build it an put it under my car to get rid of the pos 7.5. Its stock length for a 4th gen rear, so my ????? to any of you guy that may know the anwser is. What do i tell moser when i go to order axles for it??? Do i tell them i need 10 bolt 7.5 axles with ford 8.8 splines or do i tell them i need 8.8 axles 4th gen camaro lenght with chevy bolt pattern???????

For anyone trying to source a rear end check out this link.

You just select the axle, and it shows you all the years, makes, and models it came in. I know there will be differences among them, but it's a starting point.

Hell come to find out I have 2 8.8's sitting in my yard!

http://www.ringpinion.com/DiffList.aspx?SearchMode=Diff&TypeID=4

Randys Ring n Pinion has always been a great source of info for me.

Compatible with Models:
Aviator: 2003 - 2005 (Rear)
B3000: 1991 - 2002 (Rear)
B4000: 1991 - 2002 (Rear)
Bronco: 1987 - 1996 (Rear)
Capri: 1986 - 1986 (Rear)
Cougar: 1988 - 1996 (Rear)
Crown Victoria: 1992 - 2006 (Rear)
E150: 1983 - 2009 (Rear)
E250: 1983 - 1998 (Rear)
Expedition: 1997 - 2003 (Front)
Expedition: 1997 - 2003 (Rear)
Explorer: 1990 - 2003 (Rear)
F150: 1959 - 1987 (Rear)
F150: 1983 - 2009 (Rear)
F150: 1997 - 2006 (Front)
F250: 1997 - 1999 (Front)
Mark LT: 2006 - 2006 (Front)
Mark VI: 1980 - 1983 (Rear)
Mustang: 1986 - 2009 (Rear)
Navigator: 1998 - 2005 (Front)
Navigator: 1998 - 2006 (Rear)
Ranger: 1990 - 2005 (Rear)
Thunderbird: 1987 - 1995 (Rear)
Town Car: 1981 - 2005 (Rear)

Does the crossover U joint hold up? How much abuse have you guys given yours (for those using it)?

if i were to buy a 8.8 and cut the tubes and attach my 10 bolt tubes could i still run all stock suspension

if i were to buy a 8.8 and cut the tubes and attach my 10 bolt tubes could i still run all stock suspension

yes. you would have to weld a tq arm bracket though.

now my second question is is there that much of a diff between the mustang 8.8 diff and the explorer diff my neighbor has one hes willing to sell me for 150 its from an explorer has 31 splines and 3:73

The difference is the number of splines. And, the Explorer has a better chance of not having been beat on. I a complete 8.8 31 spline assembly this weekend for $125.00.

For those doing this hybrid, I got a quote for axles from Moser. On the phone I was quoted $312.00 but through e-mail I was told $295.00, plus $17.50 for pull-thru studs. Otherwise screw-in studs are standard. I simply asked for F-body 10 bolt axles with 8.8 31 spine ends.

ok cool jus bought it for 100 bucks gonna get started:engarde:

wow good info greg. Its cool this topic is generating so much interest. Sorry i have been away but work has been busy and i snow plow. Anyways i talked to one of our customers that has a large machine shop. I can get the dom tubing i need but i have to order 10 ft at a time for 350$. I will pick some up this week if a enough people are interested and its seems like their are. The offical price i guess will be 110$ since its about 40 just in materials for me guys. Shoot me a pm with your number and i will get back to you. just made my first spare set from the left over material. Just sucks cause i want to try out the rear before i sell this stuff cause i want everything to work out well for you guys. Keep all the good info flowing in here. As far as axles go predator, from what randy told me, you want stock length fbody 10 bolt axles with chevy bolt pattern and a ford 31 spline on the end. hope that helps. Definately give me your number though if you want sleeve cause i am a little old fashioned and just like personal communication to make sure everything is clear. Good luck guys

massconfusion, have you welded up your axle with the coupler?
post the pics if you would.

I havent read through all of the posts, but I figured I would throw some information out there for you. Obviously, were not talking about a completely stock Ford 8.8, but this thing doesnt have any exotic stuff inside it either..

A couple friends of mine have a racecar, and I help out at the track on the weekends. Its a 1990 Mustang Coupe, with a small block on the bottle. To give you an idea, the car made north of 750HP on motor alone, and we arent scared to throw the hose to the thing. Towards the end of the year, we were spraying over 5LBS of nitrous in a single 1/8th mile pass, lol. Anyway, the car has been 5.20's @ 134MPH. Thats at 3200LBS. Most of the time the car still has the front tires in the air at the beams, so our short times are in the low 1.20s. When we've kept the front end down, we've clicked off short times in the 1.18 1.19 range before..

This is all on an 8.8.. So yeah, theyll take some power.

Bad ASS!!!!

wow good info greg. Its cool this topic is generating so much interest. Sorry i have been away but work has been busy and i snow plow. Anyways i talked to one of our customers that has a large machine shop. I can get the dom tubing i need but i have to order 10 ft at a time for 350$. I will pick some up this week if a enough people are interested and its seems like their are. The offical price i guess will be 110$ since its about 40 just in materials for me guys. Shoot me a pm with your number and i will get back to you. just made my first spare set from the left over material. Just sucks cause i want to try out the rear before i sell this stuff cause i want everything to work out well for you guys. Keep all the good info flowing in here. As far as axles go predator, from what randy told me, you want stock length fbody 10 bolt axles with chevy bolt pattern and a ford 31 spline on the end. hope that helps. Definately give me your number though if you want sleeve cause i am a little old fashioned and just like personal communication to make sure everything is clear. Good luck guys
What do u mean by sleeve, srry i havent read through this entire thread

massconfusion - are all the 8.8 housings the same diameter? I would be interested in the sleeves if I know they will fit the Explorer housing I'm using. Let me know.

i would also like to know about the sleeves for the explorer rear i have and any ideas on fabing up a torque arm mount?

If anyone has any questions that may pertain to modifying an 8.8 with putting 10 bolt tubes on it. I will be doing it within the next few months and updating the link in my sig. just for anyone that would like to see how it comes out.

If anyone has any questions that may pertain to modifying an 8.8 with putting 10 bolt tubes on it. I will be doing it within the next few months and updating the link in my sig. just for anyone that would like to see how it comes out.
i as well any info will help me and ill post pics ive nvr attempted anything like this so ill have alot of questions:bang:

massconfusion - are all the 8.8 housings the same diameter? I would be interested in the sleeves if I know they will fit the Explorer housing I'm using. Let me know.
anyone know?

I've got an 8.8 sitting in my shop I was thinking of doing this. I'm just scared of hacking up the 10 bolt that is in my car now. I think I'll just grab another 10 bolt out of a 93-97 v6 Fbody at the local pull a part.

Only thing I see as a problem would be if the measurement was off on the torque arm bracket.

Only thing I see as a problem would be if the measurement was off on the torque arm bracket.

Seems like no one has a answer to this one. I have a thread asking for help on this. I am about to give it a try as soon as i get some guidance.

Here's my plan for the torque arm: After I get the 8.8 welded up and back into the car, I'm going put the torque arm in its stock location (on the trans) and hold the majority of the arm up with jack stands. Then makes the necessary measurements to fab a torque arm bracket. I will start from the end of the arm and go backward towards the housing. The sucky parts is I will have to remove the third member to weld it to the housing.

That does not sound like a good idea. the TQ arm is not a a solid mount so you may be off left or right. Measurements need to be taken off a known good location. I would take measurements off the 10 bolt and alot of pics. I have three cars to work with so I will start next weekend taking some initial measurements and running this by my engineer at work.

are you using the sleeves or are you sliding them into the tubes i know your using the explorer rear which is what i have

Here's my plan for the torque arm: After I get the 8.8 welded up and back into the car, I'm going put the torque arm in its stock location (on the trans) and hold the majority of the arm up with jack stands. Then makes the necessary measurements to fab a torque arm bracket. I will start from the end of the arm and go backward towards the housing. The sucky parts is I will have to remove the third member to weld it to the housing.

you've taken the words right out of my mouth. weld up a bracket and then bolt it to the torque arm and take it in place with the rear in the car. This seems like the only way to really guarantee fitment with out building a jig even though car more or less becomes one.

That does not sound like a good idea. the TQ arm is not a a solid mount so you may be off left or right. Measurements need to be taken off a known good location. I would take measurements off the 10 bolt and alot of pics. I have three cars to work with so I will start next weekend taking some initial measurements and running this by my engineer at work.

you can take measurements but at the end of the day i would still tach it in place with the rear in the car and use the measurements to know your in the ball park. The torque arm is not supposed to be a solid mount because as with most parts on a car and not just the suspenion, they need to move and adjust slightly to the conditions of the road and the load placed on the car

you can take measurements but at the end of the day i would still tach it in place with the rear in the car and use the measurements to know your in the ball park. The torque arm is not supposed to be a solid mount because as with most parts on a car and not just the suspenion, they need to move and adjust slightly to the conditions of the road and the load placed on the car

Yes we all know they need to move. The way it was worded did not sound like a good way to do it. With the way he stated the TQ arm could easily be sitting down lower or up higher and off to the left or right. I was just pointing out that to him so he did a little bit of legwork before hand so he doesn't mess anything up.

Maybe before you start cutting out the 10 bolt get the measurements from the frame rail to the TA. With the car sitting on all 4's check the angle of the TA.

After you have those measurements, you can kind of get an idea where it needs to be on the 8.8.

this prob sounds really stupid but how are yall keeping the tubes at the right angles to line up and fit all the brackets from the 10-bolt to the 8.8

I just got my 8.8 Explorer rear end today. I will be taking that apart soon. This weekend I will take the 10 bolt out of the Camaro. I plan on sleeving the 10 bolts tubes. However, I want to make my own measurements with the Explorer housing. Massconfusion told all of us his measurements with the Mustang housing. I'm curious to know if the Explorer is different.

As far as the torque arm, I will make note of the "line" it follows in reference to the floor pan including distance from the floor. I will be making marks on the bottom of the floor so I know the general path it will need to follow when mounted to the 8.8 housing. Once its all in place, I will be replacing the stock torque arm with an adjustable one. If anything needs to be adjusted, I can do it with the torque arm. Either way, it should be pretty simple.

I will take photos.

I just got my 8.8 Explorer rear end today. I will be taking that apart soon. This weekend I will take the 10 bolt out of the Camaro. I plan on sleeving the 10 bolts tubes. However, I want to make my own measurements with the Explorer housing. Massconfusion told all of us his measurements with the Mustang housing. I'm curious to know if the Explorer is different.

As far as the torque arm, I will make note of the "line" it follows in reference to the floor pan including distance from the floor. I will be making marks on the bottom of the floor so I know the general path it will need to follow when mounted to the 8.8 housing. Once its all in place, I will be replacing the stock torque arm with an adjustable one. If anything needs to be adjusted, I can do it with the torque arm. Either way, it should be pretty simple.

I will take photos.



That sounds alot better. Just wanted to be sure you had some sort of where it should be. I would als take measurements though.

Now I just cut my axles off a 92 explorer rear this weekend and had a inside measurement of 2.880". My camaro axles measure 2.645" o.d. Luckly I have an uncle, that I am hopeing can machine a sleeve to slide over the camaro axle which I will then slide into the ford axle, after removing the weld inside. If he cant, well time for some creative thinking!! Dang..

Massconfusion: how thick is the sleave? I assume there is plenty of clearance for the axles to go through the sleave with no interference. It looks like you've got about four inches inside each tube. Is that about right?

i believe he said he has 3" inside the tubes.

No 8.8 ford axle tube will have a inside dia of 3.00" due the min wall thickness of .188".

lolol

No 8.8 ford axle tube will have a inside dia of 3.00" due the min wall thickness of .188".

he menas how far in do the sleeves go, and yes he said 3" per side.

Cool, cool. Helps if I read the whole thing!! Thanks for setting me straight on that measurement.. I ended up running mine at 4" deep, but that is what I had metal for so I figured might as well use it.

interesting how the explorer is significantly bigger. Almost have my tq arm mount finished. Now if only their was an easy way to mount it lol.

Massconfusion: how thick is the sleave? I assume there is plenty of clearance for the axles to go through the sleave with no interference. It looks like you've got about four inches inside each tube. Is that about right?

on the chevy side it is roughly a 1/4 inch thick. We made it have an i.d of 1.8 so it would still be strong but thin enough allow the diff fluid to flow freely. the ford side i would say right around 1/2 inch thick because of the size differences on the ford.

hey randy did you fab up your 8.8 or did someone do it for you willing to show pics if you have any let some guys on here get there wheels spinning in their heads for more ideas

Any reason to NOT go with a 1988 mustang GT 8.8? I know of one locally for sale that even has the gearing I'm looking for.

Any reason to NOT go with a 1988 mustang GT 8.8? I know of one locally for sale that even has the gearing I'm looking for.

nope, go for it :)

Any reason to NOT go with a 1988 mustang GT 8.8? I know of one locally for sale that even has the gearing I'm looking for.

the only reason i bought a 96 was it had the 4.10 gear i wanted as well, so yeah go for it

What is the outside diameter of our F-body 10 bolt axle tubes?

I can't remember,it's in the thread somewhere

I've got an 8.8 sitting in my shop I was thinking of doing this. I'm just scared of hacking up the 10 bolt that is in my car now. I think I'll just grab another 10 bolt out of a 93-97 v6 Fbody at the local pull a part.

Only thing I see as a problem would be if the measurement was off on the torque arm bracket.

Same thing here BJ. I got two 8.8s at the shop, just gonna scrape up my an extra 10 bolt. The only thing that seems difficult would be fabbing up the T.A. mount and making sure it is lined up.

8.8 builds are not very easy to do. I have an 8.8 rear that is built with the 10 bolt axle tubes. The person that built mine still has a few that he is willing to sell, along with alot of parts to build an 8.8 for an f-body.

Massconfusion, any thought on building a coulpe of these housings and selling them?

Massconfusion, any thought on building a coulpe of these housings and selling them?

The guy i bought my car from did that. He still has all of the equipment for sale to build these. His name is studytime if you want to look him up.

I was wondering how much extra work it is to rebuild an 8.8 for an 82-93 camaro or firebird or just to go with a bolt in rear like the Strange S60?

The guy i bought my car from did that. He still has all of the equipment for sale to build these. His name is studytime if you want to look him up.

ok, I will look him up. I have a guy with a 8.8 housing for $100 down the block from me. I would do the swap and everything myself it's just i can't weld to save my life. I'd like to just buy a housing already with the 10 bolt stuff welded on and ready to put together.

Massconfusion, any thought on building a coulpe of these housings and selling them?

Yea i've been thinking about making a few for friends since work is going to be slow for a month or so. Here some pics of mine without the t/a mount and unpainted. my brother is the pic sorry about that

I hope your planning on welding the 8.8 tubes to the center section thats one of the first things most mustang guys do to ensure the tubes don't spin, which they will. I want some T/A pics now :)

Yea i've been thinking about making a few for friends since work is going to be slow for a month or so. Here some pics of mine without the t/a mount and unpainted. my brother is the pic sorry about that
If you do, let me know what you need for a housing ready to bolt in.

dont you worry about that. next thing i did after i snapped those pics. lol. thanks though man i will try and get pics of the t/a mount soon it just won't be mounted n the car until i can get cash to finish it(i.e. diff, axles). its really not that hard guys and i will have a complete writeup soon with all the info from me as well as what you other guys posted.

I hope your planning on welding the 8.8 tubes to the center section thats one of the first things most mustang guys do to ensure the tubes don't spin, which they will. I want some T/A pics now :)

well guys it is finally here. Here are the pics of my t/q arm mount, let me know what you think

hey randy did you fab up your 8.8 or did someone do it for you willing to show pics if you have any let some guys on here get there wheels spinning in their heads for more ideas

^^ This

Randy where u at!

First I would like to thank everyone who has shared info on this 8.8 setup, I cannot afford a 9 inch or dana s60, so i have decided to go with the 8.8 rearend. I found a explorer rearend with 4.10 gears, 31 spline axles, and a stock differential. Are there different style limited slip differentials that came in explorers, or would it be a locking diff? Did explorers come with different limited slips, if so how can i tell if the rearend has the better one? Thanks in advance for the help.

^^ This

Randy where u at!

This is like the one i done , and yes it build my own rearends and It works grate. Make shore you weld the torque arm brace to the housing with Nickel welding rods or wire, The housing is made of cast steel and a mild steel rod or wire will not hold it to the housing.The weld will seperateor or crack from the housing . And to prove that it holds the second pic is at the track with a 1.39 60ft. The 8.8 has been in my car for 4 years now.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/RandyWS6/8_8_close_side_center.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/RandyWS6/MOV009-1.jpg

well guys it is finally here. Here are the pics of my t/q arm mount, let me know what you think

You might want to box brace the mount, The mount need plenty of support, ive seen the tq.mount ripped from the housings

First I would like to thank everyone who has shared info on this 8.8 setup, I cannot afford a 9 inch or dana s60, so i have decided to go with the 8.8 rearend. I found a explorer rearend with 4.10 gears, 31 spline axles, and a stock differential. Are there different style limited slip differentials that came in explorers, or would it be a locking diff? Did explorers come with different limited slips, if so how can i tell if the rearend has the better one? Thanks in advance for the help.

Ive used the Explorer limited slip for years, just check the clutch pack & steels for wear,If you start over powering the clutch pack ,go mini spool like i did, Love it.

I think it should hold. The steel plate in the center is 1/2'' thick steel and the tubes were solid 1'' round stock that i drilled. My biggest worry is just welding it on in the right spot and getting it to hold. LOL. I'll include some pics too that show actual dimensions

This is like the one i done , and yes it build my own rearends and It works grate. Make shore you weld the torque arm brace to the housing with Nickel welding rods or wire, The housing is made of cast steel and a mild steel rod or wire will not hold it to the housing.The weld will seperateor or crack from the housing . And to prove that it holds the second pic is at the track with a 1.39 60ft. The 8.8 has been in my car for 4 years now.


Okay thanks for the visual randy, I have no doubt it'll hold if done right!

So for the torque arm mount, I have the stock style that bolts to the M6 trans. Should i be looking into a different length torque arm or different mount type?...Or if I have that torque arm bracket made on the rear, it should work in theory and hook up to my stock style mount on trans? Sorry for the questions, just trying to confirm things before I have my buddy start fabbin this, getting him all the info I can.

Thanks again for the help/tips for this.

the factory t/q works you just have to make sure you place the bracket in the right spot

^^^ that's correct ^^^ I referenced from the center of the axle tube, to the center of the tq arm mounting bolt holes.

yea I'm going to try to make a jig for the t/q arm mount this weekend when i install my rear, that way It will make it easy for future builds

Just an FYI on axles for this build: axles splines are the same between manufacturer's. So when you order your axles for this build, you just need to tell them the length and spline number. I just ordered mine from Moser. They are stock length Fbody axles with 31 splines. I ordered them from Matt @ Moser. They will ship Thursday. This weekend I will be putting the housing together. I bought the torque arm bracket from Massconufsion. I will take pictures of the the build.

So guys, just curious what do the Moser axles run for this setup? And what should I expect to pay a shop to measure, cut, and weld up the axle tubes to the 8.8 housing?

moser axles run about 295 shipped i believe for the 31's. Honestly if i were you or anybody else that wanted to do this with limited tools and skill, at the very least cut the tubes and prep it yourself to save some money. I would also try and get some guys to go in on it with you. The more of them you want the cheaper you'll get per unit after a welding shop sets up a jig to make these. You would probably be looking at around 500$ for all the welding and fabrication with the t/q arm maybe more. The sleeves will cost you too cause a machine shop is gonna charge you quite a bit to just run off one set. It can be done for significantly less you just need more guys to go in on it with you

Okay, so even if I were the only one getting the fab word done, it would still be quite a bit cheaper than the other options out there, ie 12bolt/9inch. Thats good to know. I've already got an 8.8 explorer rear laying around so really want to go this route.

Good on ya. If need any more help just ask, me and the other guys are happy to help

Hey guys. My 8.8 is welded up and ready to go into the car. My stepfather and I did it yesterday. It went really well. The main concern is to measure, measure, and measure again. We used simple levels, tape measures, and angle finders. The cutting and welding is the simple part. I had a machine shop make the sleeves. They cost me $70 plus my 8.8axles. The sleeves were 8 inches long each, although we only put 6 inches of each one in the 8.8 tubes. Then we cut the last 1 3/4 of the sleeve off, leaving a 1/4 inch sticking out. Then we put the 10 bolt tube into the sleeve. After measuring for length and angle, we tacked the tubes. After tacking, we measured everything one more time. My stepfather is a welder by trade, so he welded the tubes together. The way we sleeved it made it possible to to run one weld that joined the 8.8 tube, sleeve, and 10 bolt tube together. One weld on each side keeps the warping down to a minimum.

We were not able to weld the torque arm bracket on due to the 8.8 housing having webbing in the way of the correct location for the bracket to be welded. I'm going to put the rear in the car, then weld the bracket on - most likely in a slightly different location.

For anyone that wants their 8.8 welded up, my stepfather is willing to do it. You need to provide the parts, (shipped to MN) and pay shipping both ways. He will charge $500 including making the sleeves. The torque arm bracket will need to be done by you. Oh yeah, you will need to remove all the differential parts. This will keep shipping prices down and keep the parts clean. He's only interested in doing stock length.

I can tell you where to cut the 8.8 and the 10 bolt. Or you can ship them uncut and he can do it.

PM me if you are SERIOUSLY wanting this done.

My Moser axles cost me $295 plus $17.50 for wheel studs.

I'm assuming when I order the axles I just order them for the F-body and 31 splines? Or are they "custom" to fit into the 8.8 third member?

You are right. Ask for 31 spline Fbody axles. If you go with Moser, talk to Matt Mccombs.

^^^ That what I done ^^^ Plus mine has the four channel ABS reluctor rings on the axles

Hey guys. My 8.8 is welded up and ready to go into the car. My stepfather and I did it yesterday. It went really well. The main concern is to measure, measure, and measure again. We used simple levels, tape measures, and angle finders. The cutting and welding is the simple part. I had a machine shop make the sleeves. They cost me $70 plus my 8.8axles. The sleeves were 8 inches long each, although we only put 6 inches of each one in the 8.8 tubes. Then we cut the last 1 3/4 of the sleeve off, leaving a 1/4 inch sticking out. Then we put the 10 bolt tube into the sleeve. After measuring for length and angle, we tacked the tubes. After tacking, we measured everything one more time. My stepfather is a welder by trade, so he welded the tubes together. The way we sleeved it made it possible to to run one weld that joined the 8.8 tube, sleeve, and 10 bolt tube together. One weld on each side keeps the warping down to a minimum.

We were not able to weld the torque arm bracket on due to the 8.8 housing having webbing in the way of the correct location for the bracket to be welded. I'm going to put the rear in the car, then weld the bracket on - most likely in a slightly different location.

For anyone that wants their 8.8 welded up, my stepfather is willing to do it. You need to provide the parts, (shipped to MN) and pay shipping both ways. He will charge $500 including making the sleeves. The torque arm bracket will need to be done by you. Oh yeah, you will need to remove all the differential parts. This will keep shipping prices down and keep the parts clean. He's only interested in doing stock length.

I can tell you where to cut the 8.8 and the 10 bolt. Or you can ship them uncut and he can do it.

PM me if you are SERIOUSLY wanting this done.

My Moser axles cost me $295 plus $17.50 for wheel studs.

:hijack: this 8.8 thread is to share info not for sale/ service section. post that shit where it belongs instead of soliciting in here. thats a dick move

I thought he might catch some shit for that but I'm sure mods can take care of the improper placement. I didn't take it as a dick move though, just figured he was letting people know, especially since I had just asked about prices for such work.

Does anyone have measurements for this setup they are willing to share yet? I thought massconfusion was working on a writeup or something for this :)

anybody want an 8.8 housing 93 mustang and 10bolt axle tubes got it for sale i bought a S60

yes i will 1 day soon quite being lazy and do a writeup. as far as measurements go cut the 8.8 axle tubes 4" from the diff. Cut the chevy tubes 8" from the center of the hole in the spring perches. next you are going to have to do some grinding to get the ends perfectly straight on the tubes you cut. Mock everything up with your sleeves. YOul'll probably have to shave some metal depending on what you have but, you should be close to 40 inches center to center on the spring perches. double check your measurements though and just just use this as a reference

aren't you guys scared if your are trying to do this your self welding a torque arm mount and then going to the track dumping the clutch if you have a stick car and the bracket breaking and your rear end spinning around probably breaking the tail of the tranny and busting up your driveshaft? i can do alot on my own and my friends farther was going to weld it all up cuz hes got a machine shop but i just didnt want to take the chance

why would i be scared. If something is out of my skill level i ask for help from someone who knows. In this case it is easy just go overkill and i have talked to several welding supplie houses

I see well let's say the best welder in the world welded the rear end torque arm and say if your at the track and dropped the clutch at 6k and that torque arm bracket broke I think that'd be pretty scary

I welded mine on, but I'm a AWS certified welder ,I have broke three stock torque arms before i made a adjustable tubular torque arm, If you clean the housing were your going to weld the mount on and preheat it and have it welded with a cast iron or cast steel welding rod or wire like a Ni-cal alloy and put plenty of support kicker from the torque arm bracket to the housing you should be fine. Mine been on for four years and had plenty of 6000rpm clutch dump before i went auto. Just find some one that has welded cast before and knows the process of preheat and full penetration weld and it will hold.

I see well let's say the best welder in the world welded the rear end torque arm and say if your at the track and dropped the clutch at 6k and that torque arm bracket broke I think that'd be pretty scary

Isnt that what Moser does? What 9" housing is made with a tq arm mount or even a 12 bolt housing? Plus it would only take a fraction of the power to turn compared to that s60 of yours

For people concerned about the tq mount G-Force makes a 4link conversion kit. I bought one just haven't done anything with it yet so I can't vouch for it. Several people run that style of 4link setup including Ed Wright on his 9 sec. TA.

I already have a Moser 12 bolt, but I have an 8.8 I plan on doing this to. Wouldn't mind doing this and selling my Moser to put an extra 1k back in my pocket

Moser and strange have castings with a tq arm provision on there 12 bolts and 9inch housings have a bolt on bracket. I'm with you guys on this and was all ready to do it but changed my mind also the 12bolt is basically the same as the 8.8 in size of ring and pinion and some guys are breaking 12bolts also. I got the s60 because of bigger things are in the works.

I don't know if this is true but I read it in another fbody forum that the 9inch is about 10% loss, 12bolt is 7-8% loss and 60 is 5-6% loss I still can't see how the biggest rear has the least par. loss they were probably wrong on that forum

yes i will 1 day soon quite being lazy and do a writeup. as far as measurements go cut the 8.8 axle tubes 4" from the diff. Cut the chevy tubes 8" from the center of the hole in the spring perches. next you are going to have to do some grinding to get the ends perfectly straight on the tubes you cut. Mock everything up with your sleeves. YOul'll probably have to shave some metal depending on what you have but, you should be close to 40 inches center to center on the spring perches. double check your measurements though and just just use this as a reference

Thank you for this...can't wait to get started :secret2:

aren't you guys scared if your are trying to do this your self welding a torque arm mount and then going to the track dumping the clutch if you have a stick car and the bracket breaking and your rear end spinning around probably breaking the tail of the tranny and busting up your driveshaft? i can do alot on my own and my friends farther was going to weld it all up cuz hes got a machine shop but i just didnt want to take the chance

that would be fucking sweet to see happen. seriously even if it happened to me i would be impressed except even when t/q arm mount snaps off i doubt that would happen as most people shut down when they hear a loud noise especially metal shearing. Alas this is the price you pay for drag racing and that is breaking shit. I will try to organize the thread this weekend and throw some pics of the finished product (speed inc and god willing). good news got my monster clutch in so i am ready for serious carnage especially with my nitrous system when i hook it up! thanks for the support and the interest guys

So I think I'm getting the jist here. Take a look at these points and correct me if I'm wrong.

Easiest route is to cut off 10 bolt tubes and slide them inside cut off 8.8 tubes.

TQ arm mount requires ni-cal wire and ability/know how to weld cast

Splines are splines. A 31 spline fbody axle should fit a 31 spline ford carrier.

My question is how do I go about converting my ABS? I believe it's a 3 channel but either way it would be good to know for the 3 channel guys.

Also i didn't see where anybody talked about warpage. Are you sending out your housings and having them straightened/checked or are you making a jig?

So I think I'm getting the jist here. Take a look at these points and correct me if I'm wrong.

Easiest route is to cut off 10 bolt tubes and slide them inside cut off 8.8 tubes.

TQ arm mount requires ni-cal wire and ability/know how to weld cast

Splines are splines. A 31 spline fbody axle should fit a 31 spline ford carrier.

My question is how do I go about converting my ABS? I believe it's a 3 channel but either way it would be good to know for the 3 channel guys.

Also i didn't see where anybody talked about warpage. Are you sending out your housings and having them straightened/checked or are you making a jig?
Any welding done on axle requires nickel rod.Including tubes.
You are using your 10 bolt axle tubes.That takes care of your 3 channel.Your 10 bolt should have all the hardware already on it for the 3 channel set-up.

You do not need to weld the axle tubes with Nickel , unless you are welding the tubes straight to the cast housing. If you weld tube to tube ,you can weld it with mild steel wire or rods.

The 3 channel ABS (1) sensor is in the 10 bolt housing, The 4 channel ABS or (TCS) (2) sensors are bolted to the dust covers and reads off the axles. The 4 channel axles have a reluctor ring pressed on the end of the axles were your brakes are, the 3 channel has a reluctor ring pressed on the carrier. If your car comes with a Traction Control switch ,witch is beside the lighter on your console that you can turn off and on then you have a 4 channel. If not you have a 3 channel ABS system.

Moser and strange have castings with a tq arm provision on there 12 bolts and 9inch housings have a bolt on bracket. I'm with you guys on this and was all ready to do it but changed my mind also the 12bolt is basically the same as the 8.8 in size of ring and pinion and some guys are breaking 12bolts also. I got the s60 because of bigger things are in the works.

I don't know if this is true but I read it in another fbody forum that the 9inch is about 10% loss, 12bolt is 7-8% loss and 60 is 5-6% loss I still can't see how the biggest rear has the least par. loss they were probably wrong on that forum

The differace that ive seen between the 12 bolt & the 8.8 is the pinion shafts, the 8.8 is much larger.

Alright, I know for sure now that I have a 3 channel. The question stands for those that have done it what do I have to do to keep the ABS?

Does the GM reluctor wheel press to the ford carrier?

Does the ford setup work for a gm sensor?

Is there a provision in the ford housing or do I have to make one?

I haven't gotten the rears to cut apart yet but I'd like to know exactly what I'm in for. I don't want to get going on this thing, hit a roadblock, and then have to decide if I want to keep or ditch ABS.

I just completed my 8.8 swap. My Explorer rear had the abs ring on the carrier, the sensor is mounted to the top of the housing. If your sensor connector will plug into the Ford sensor, I don't see why it won't work. If it doesn't plug in, get the connector from the Ford. Cut off the connector from the Fbody and splice the Ford connector to the wires.

Alright, I know for sure now that I have a 3 channel. The question stands for those that have done it what do I have to do to keep the ABS?

Does the GM reluctor wheel press to the ford carrier?

Does the ford setup work for a gm sensor?

Is there a provision in the ford housing or do I have to make one?

I haven't gotten the rears to cut apart yet but I'd like to know exactly what I'm in for. I don't want to get going on this thing, hit a roadblock, and then have to decide if I want to keep or ditch ABS.

x2
I've been trying to find out about this for awhile now. My car is also a 3 channel.

So this is my plan, correct me if anything is wrong.

-Obtain an 8.8 out of a foxbody mustang with desired gear ratio
-Obtain a 10 bolt.
-Obtain some moser axles.
-Remove differential and axles out of both (obviously).
-Cut the tubes off the 8.8 and the 10 bolt and find a way to slip the 10 bolt tubes into the 8.8. Then weld them in.
-Fab up a torque arm mount and weld it onto the housing.
-Slide in the axles and put the differential back in (is the 8.8 like the 9" in the sense that it has a modular center section that you can just remove and install?)
(basically asking, can i do this myself or do i need to have a shop rebuild the center section?)
-Cut the "ears" off of the 8.8
-Get a ujoint adapter or whatever it is called.
-Fit on brakes and install.
-Maybe get a rearend cover?

I will still be able to use abs?

x2
I've been trying to find out about this for awhile now. My car is also a 3 channel. x3 here! If that ford reluctor and sensor could be adapted to the GM harness, it would only work if the wheel has the same signal (number of teeth, spacing of teeth). If not I wonder if that is something that can be adjusted using HP tuners or something.

I will still be able to use abs?

I am watching this too. Found a dirt cheap 8.8 housing and may be able to get a spare 10-bolt as a donor. I know a great welder! I wonder if we can get him to make a few jigs and weld some of these up for guys. Might have connections with a machine shop to make some adapters as well. Hmmm...... The wheels are turning. :lol:

i love the 8.8 in my car.. had it made by a member on here. great guy. 2000 miles and no proplems yet

car is finally done. got my new monster cluthe in, with my 8.8 and my 4.10s car has instant throttle response the way it should be instead bullshit lag with 3.42s. here a teaser pic of my t/q arm mount.

I am not too familiar with the 8.8 internals. IF you take the differential apart and take out all the gears and what not, will you need a rebuild? Is it an easy task or is it something anyone can do?

I am not too familiar with the 8.8 internals. IF you take the differential apart and take out all the gears and what not, will you need a rebuild? Is it an easy task or is it something anyone can do?

IF the gears were set up correctly and in good shape to begin with....and IF the bearings are in good shape....you can just bolt it all back together AS LONG AS you keep up with what shims went where.

I am not too familiar with the 8.8 internals. IF you take the differential apart and take out all the gears and what not, will you need a rebuild? Is it an easy task or is it something anyone can do?

"Anyone" can take one apart, but putting it back together can get a little tricky. If it was mine, I would clean/inspect everything and set it back up like it was a "new" set up. Mileage and what kind of life it had in its "past" life, and now really laying some power to it in your car, anything that was on its way out or not quite right, will come out sooner than later. If I was gonna just pull it apart/weld it up/and then put it back together, at least check the back lash and run a pattern....... better to do it now than get it back together and have it make noise, etc as soon as you get it under the car............. I know Im getting sick of jackin mine up and laying underneath it lately!!!!! :chug:

Oh...forgot to mention.....don't mix up the main caps that hold the carrier in the housing. They need to go in the same spot they come out of.

Well I got an 8.8 rearend now, and a 10 bolt acquired.
31 spline true-trak that needs to be rebuilt
good 4.10s.

What exactly do i need to buy and use to fix this thing up once i have the housing all fixed up how i want it.

Well I got an 8.8 rearend now, and a 10 bolt acquired.
31 spline true-trak that needs to be rebuilt
good 4.10s.

What exactly do i need to buy and use to fix this thing up once i have the housing all fixed up how i want it.

Also, should I keep the true-trak or go to the trac-lok setup? What's the difference?

Well I got an 8.8 rearend now, and a 10 bolt acquired.
31 spline true-trak that needs to be rebuilt
good 4.10s.

What exactly do i need to buy and use to fix this thing up once i have the housing all fixed up how i want it.

Also, should I keep the true-trak or go to the trac-lok setup? What's the difference?

What did the Housing come out of?
8.8 housings are not ALL the same,lengths,pinion offset, tube diameter are different for different models.

get new cluthe packs. their is a place in michigan forgot what they are called that sells them for 50$ new verses 100$ from ford

usallually the only wearable items in the 8.8s are cluthe packs. i bought my rear though and a the guy had blown out the spider gears. you guys are going to cringe when i tell you this though. I got a spear carrier from a buddy looked it over and just threw it in. I had speed inc set up backlash but i didnt pull it apart or anything. runs great

Sweet, any idea on what this place is called, tryin to save as much money as i can.

What did the Housing come out of?
8.8 housings are not ALL the same,lengths,pinion offset, tube diameter are different for different models.

But if all you're using is the pumpkin what does that matter? You'll need to come up with a sleve anyway and the pinion is still centered in the pumpkin right?

But if all you're using is the pumpkin what does that matter?

To know the ID of the housing and what vehicle it came out of will help others that have chosen this route



You'll need to come up with a sleve anyway and the pinion is still centered in the pumpkin right?

You will have a different ID from say a mustang 8.8 vs. explorer.
No the pinion is offset to the pass side for the explorer 8.8

some have been using the 8.8 since it already has 3.55,3.73 or 4.10 gears and a locker...the tube diameter is 3.25 whereas the mustang 8.8 is 3" dia..

I see I was under the impression that the axle tube was shorter on the pass side to get the entire pumpkin offset. I didn't realize the pinion itself was moved in the pumpkin.

I'm planning on giving this a shot and have found a rear out of a first gen lightning pickup that has everything I need as far as gears posi and what not. Would I be able to use this center section or am I going to have to use one out of a mustang?

Top rear end is centered pinion

Bottom is explorer off center to pass side

I have never used a truck rear on my swaps however i do beleive the truck is an 8.8 also so typical mods will apply with axle tubes.

I'm under the impression that the only reason the pinion is offset in the truck and suv housings is because they have a shorter axle on one side. I think the pinion sits in the same spot in relation to the cast portion of the center section itself.....otherwise....you couldn't even swap posi's and gear sets between truck and car 8.8's.

I have a 8.8 laying around that I got for a 6 pack of beer awhile back, 3.73 and posi... Now I just need to find a spare 10bolt to hack appart and assemble, This thread is awsome with the amount of information.

thanks man a lot of good guys have contributed. I will be putting a new writeup togather featuring both methods of building an 8.8 to fit an fbody soon. that way all the info will be condensed. I personally want to say thanks to randyws6 and 98silvertacrbn. Both guys inspired me and provided a ton of info

I have a 8.8 laying around that I got for a 6 pack of beer awhile back, 3.73 and posi... Now I just need to find a spare 10bolt to hack appart and assemble, This thread is awsome with the amount of information.

What's your mailing address? I'll quadruple your investment and send you a case in trade!:D:chug:

if you guys need new clutch packs or some 8.8 parts check out www.thegearbox.com these guys have stuff at really good prices

new interesting development with my 8.8 today after some serious testing today. I launched at 3k several times today and everything was fine and put the car on the lift to inspect my welds and they looked good still. 5k launch and BOOM. I broke my drive shaft and t/q arm mount. lol. not that big a deal cause i have a spare but wished i had reinforced at more points like i did on the other 8.8 i built. I only had it secured at 4 points instead of 7 on the other i built. even tore some small peices out of the housing. The lesson here guys is weld hot and attach at least 5 or more point on the housing or axle tubes. the positive side is my welds didnt crack i tore steel so i am happy with my welds. The mount didnt completely shear off ethier so i'm kinda happy about that. lol. Also i'm making about 420 rwhp, monster stage 4 and have m/ts so i hook hard. should have it repaired this week I'll keep you guys updated

Pics of the carnage?

i'll post some tomorrow. have it just about repaired though. Using a combination how randy did his on pg.8 and some of the mounts i used on mine. the other 8.8 i welded up was done this way but not mine since it was the prototype. lol. anyway hopefully being launching at 5k in a day or so

here is a pic of what happened to the mount. here is the new bulletproof design mocked and tacked in place. finished it today and i double passed all the welds this thing is literally bullet proof

I'm not sure why you guys insist on using what seems to be such thin steel to brace the torque arm. This is what we have come up with so far for a torque arm mount. More as soon as I can I'm open to suggestions and opinions. The back and side of he steel will be braced as well as a full weld around where it meets the housing.

http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/imgcache/3190.imgcache
http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/imgcache/3191.imgcache
http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/imgcache/3192.imgcache
http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/imgcache/3193.imgcache
http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/imgcache/3194.imgcache

here is a pic of what happened to the mount. here is the new bulletproof design mocked and tacked in place. finished it today and i double passed all the welds this thing is literally bullet proof

Thats what Im talkin bout!! Looks good, man!!!

:cheers:

thats not going to hold just causes its big though. You need to distribute the load across the housing aproiately. i made that mistake the first time. With the 1/4 plate i used the load is disputed quite well with over 18 inches of weld holding the bracket to the plate steel mounted on the housing. as for the plate steel the welds are not really holding the t/q the pinion is because the steel wraps around taking the load off those welds. My design holds. Did some hard launches today was having a hard time getting the tires to bite. Anyway i am completely confident in mine and i didnt want to add 10 lbs of steel to my housing. your mount looks strong enough but what are you going to attach it to, mock it up completely i would like to see what you have come up with


I'm not sure why you guys insist on using what seems to be such thin steel to brace the torque arm. This is what we have come up with so far for a torque arm mount. More as soon as I can I'm open to suggestions and opinions. The back and side of he steel will be braced as well as a full weld around where it meets the housing.

http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/imgcache/3190.imgcache
http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/imgcache/3191.imgcache
http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/imgcache/3192.imgcache
http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/imgcache/3193.imgcache
http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/imgcache/3194.imgcache

thanks man, have some more testing to do but this thing is burly. Cant wait to show it to you in person, so someone else can brag about its awesomeness. Cant wait to hook my nitrous up and do some mainly 10 sec launches. lol
Thats what Im talkin bout!! Looks good, man!!!

:cheers:

here is a pic of what happened to the mount. here is the new bulletproof design mocked and tacked in place. finished it today and i double passed all the welds this thing is literally bullet proof

I see what you are getting at, but is there anything behind the brace going to the axle tube? It seems like it may put unwanted stress one the tube. I could be underestimating that area of the housing though, but I would think you would want to brace back toward the housing.

here is a pic of what happened to the mount. here is the new bulletproof design mocked and tacked in place. finished it today and i double passed all the welds this thing is literally bullet proof

:nono:

subscribing to see how the new mount works out good luck:corn:

keep in mind the housing at the axle tube is almost 1/2 an inch thick and the axle tube is another 1/4 thick so that area is quite strong. I think this is starting to digress in one of those debates. any how it is holding at least now. I will do some thorough testing and keep you guys updated. I dont feel like their is a right or wrong way to do this. if your mount holds thats all that matters. I wanted mine to be very strong and ascetically pleasing somewhat, obiviously strength matters most. I feel that this will hold up to anything the 8.8 will handle. I do plan on taking to it 10 sec passes this year hopefully and maybe 9's next year with my new motor.

I see what you are getting at, but is there anything behind the brace going to the axle tube? It seems like it may put unwanted stress one the tube. I could be underestimating that area of the housing though, but I would think you would want to brace back toward the housing.

Not at all, I totally agree. If it holds it works. I'm planning on this same swap so I'm just trying to get and idea of what I am getting myself into.

If it were mine I'd have added another brace going back to the center section and put extra weight and un-needed heat back into it. You seem to have an excellent concept keep us posted.

thats not going to hold just causes its big though. You need to distribute the load across the housing aproiately. i made that mistake the first time. With the 1/4 plate i used the load is disputed quite well with over 18 inches of weld holding the bracket to the plate steel mounted on the housing. as for the plate steel the welds are not really holding the t/q the pinion is because the steel wraps around taking the load off those welds. My design holds. Did some hard launches today was having a hard time getting the tires to bite. Anyway i am completely confident in mine and i didnt want to add 10 lbs of steel to my housing. your mount looks strong enough but what are you going to attach it to, mock it up completely i would like to see what you have come up with

I agree with the distributed load, our plan is to weld the one side completely to the housing and then brace it on the opposite side and bottom as well. I'm not trying to start a debate or anything, obviously I can't say much about something that I haven't even finished just wondering why it seems a lot of the T/A mounts seem so weak. I would want the place taking that type of stress to be solid as it is on a 10 bolt housing. Just my $.02

I say screw the TQ arm idea and instal mini upper arms

Went for a ride today in a 02 SS w/ a 8.8 and it had the adj. uppers welded to the lower control arms and the car just hooked no tire spin @all ,

Went for a ride today in a 02 SS w/ a 8.8 and it had the adj. uppers welded to the lower control arms and the car just hooked no tire spin @all

Was it noisy or anything? I have the G-Force 4link conversion and everything for a 8.8 build, I have just been lazy.

Right now I have a Moser 12 bolt, Umi tunnel mount adj. tq arm, and umi adj lca's and panhard. Haven't decided if the 4 link will hook better than what I have. I planed on doing the 8.8 and maybe selling my 12 bolt to put a little money back in my pocket. Still undecided

I say screw the TQ arm idea and instal mini upper arms

What are some of the other advantages besides easier install? CAn you guys point me to another thread where someone has done this or the four link and followed up on it?

to be honest the t/q does suck if all you do is drag race. but if you want a decent ride and good handling the t/q arm is the way to go. I like the idea of the mini uppers kinda like the opposite of the ladder bar setup. If i were to do this again i would just go with the mini uppers or mini ladder bar set up because of the ease of installation and the better way to get the tires to bite. I tried launching at 5k today a few times but i have to heat up my tires real good to get them to hook hard. The only other reason you would need a T/q arm would be for a stock style suspension class anyway. post pics of the mini uppers if you can

to be honest the t/q does suck if all you do is drag race. but if you want a decent ride and good handling the t/q arm is the way to go. I like the idea of the mini uppers kinda like the opposite of the ladder bar setup. If i were to do this again i would just go with the mini uppers or mini ladder bar set up because of the ease of installation and the better way to get the tires to bite. I tried launching at 5k today a few times but i have to heat up my tires real good to get them to hook hard. The only other reason you would need a T/q arm would be for a stock style suspension class anyway. post pics of the mini uppers if you can

A lot of torque arm cars are in the 1.20 something 60 ft range. My '99 Z28 has a Moser M9, it cut 1.29 60 ft with M/T drag radials on it's first outing. Bob

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd185/EPP_photo/Muncie14.jpg

No one is doubting the TQ arm. the deal is making a mount that will stay together without spending a bunch of cash since the reason for this is to NOT spend 2k on a rearend. MADMAN was one of the first to prove a TQ arm car can launch 15 yrs ago.

As far as the ride it will have the same effect as typical HEIM JOINT lcas,panhard etc. The traction will be pretty good on virtually any tire since the suspension is a version of what quite a few drag cars have had for years,
ladder bars with a street comfort twist i would say.....all this amounts to is 2200.00 for a bolt in rear VS. 1000.00.

There are a few that have been designing the upper bars to be like the 4-link style and having nice results as well.

Ultimately i will have my TQ arm mount fabricated si if i happen to be racing in a "stock style suspension class" i can swap to the TQ arm and remove the upper bars.


I love that pic BOB!!!

I think this has been discussed in this thread or another, but has anyone used this setup? The only thing I think would be tough is adapting that crossmember to a f body.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_5&products_id=341

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z185/LilJayV10/MMTASS-1.jpg

Fab your own X member and you are golden, pay attention to the TQ arm from MAXIMUM MOTORSPORTS they have a high HP model

i got my t/q arm mount hold, like i said it is bulletproof now. hard part is getting the tires to bite. we have shitty weather here and i have tried heating the tires real good but anything over 3k and they spin, at least on the street, but am happy i dont have to worry about breaking stuff and i have a 4.10 too. +

i got my t/q arm mount hold, like i said it is bulletproof now. hard part is getting the tires to bite. we have shitty weather here and i have tried heating the tires real good but anything over 3k and they spin, at least on the street, but am happy i dont have to worry about breaking stuff and i have a 4.10 too. +

I guess I am missing the point. IMO you won't be able to tell how strong it is till you can hook it. A stock 10 bolt is great until it hooks.

Is it tires, suspension, pinion angle the reason it won't hook? Pull some mid to low 1 sec 60 ft's then report back.

I am wondering if maximum motorsports would sell just the T/A and not the other stuff I wouldn't need. If so then putting a 8.8 in would be cheap. I am going to call them next week and see what they say.

Went for a ride today in a 02 SS w/ a 8.8 and it had the adj. uppers welded to the lower control arms and the car just hooked no tire spin @all ,

got any pics of this kind of setup?

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axles/1158209-8-8-build.html

not saying it wont hook buts its hard with weather. Mickey tompson arent easy tires to spin and 6 speeds dont launch soft ether so dont think just cause i'm not wheel standing on the my mount doesnt mean it isnt plenty strong, oh most 10 bolts go just by adding these or nittos. I also guarantee you 90% of the cars on here couldn't get a 1.5 or better 60" ft, stock 10 bolt goes way before this point. I am hoping at the track to get low 1.70s, maybe 1.50s with spray. like I said before i will keep you updated as of now it holds. on a nice, warm sunny day i'll launch extra hard for you and let you know until then i'm stuck with mid 50/60 degree days, usually cloudy and rainy, but thats chicago

I guess I am missing the point. IMO you won't be able to tell how strong it is till you can hook it. A stock 10 bolt is great until it hooks.

Is it tires, suspension, pinion angle the reason it won't hook? Pull some mid to low 1 sec 60 ft's then report back.

I am wondering if maximum motorsports would sell just the T/A and not the other stuff I wouldn't need. If so then putting a 8.8 in would be cheap. I am going to call them next week and see what they say.

oh and as far as pinion angle and suspension it is all stock not the greatest setup. 15 degrees for the pinion angle i believe is stock anyway

15? Did you mean 1.5? I think 1.5 is what people shoot for when adjusting a T/A.

I hope the thing hooks and goes. I am going to need a cheap rear upgrade soon.

I still want to see a car with the t/a setup I mentioned above.

U want -2 on the torque arm for street driving which were mine is set and on shitty Nittos i pull low 1.6's.

15? Did you mean 1.5? I think 1.5 is what people shoot for when adjusting a T/A.

Generally, the pinion angle we look for in racing is -2,-2.5,-3 all depending on the track conditions...

I still want to see a car with the t/a setup I mentioned above.

Not too sure if anyone will use the maximum motorsports TQ arm since it is 500.00 and that offsets the reason for using the 8.8 at 850.00 VS. 2300.00+ for a direct bolt in rear.
Trying to cut cost and have MAX traction