View Full Version : Clutch install@home. What tools I need?


darknessxyz
01-02-2010, 07:52 PM
It looks like my rear main seal is leaking, that means it's about time to do the clutch. Is there any special tools I need for the installation? Other than the rear main seal and clutch, I'll also replace the master and slave cylinder. Keep in mind I'll be doing all the work in my home garage, meaning everything will be on the ground and no lift.

This is my first time replacing clutch (I've experience in other engine work) and there'll be a mechanic friend working with me. I found this clutch install write up (http://www.installuniversity.com/install_university/index.htm) at InstallUniversity.com. Any other area I need to pay attention to? I'll get a tranny floor jack from harbor freight.

Any help will be appreciate.

71novaguy
01-02-2010, 09:39 PM
Extensions and u-joints with an air impact do wonders for disassembly, on the low setting, it does well putting it back together (not for final assembly tho).

I did make some 2x4 blocks to set under the front tires (stacked 3 high) to free up some room under the car.

SWEET98SS
01-02-2010, 09:42 PM
I rented a puller from autozone for the pinion bearing in the back of the block. They give you your money back when your done. My monster clutch came with a new bearing so I put it in.

71novaguy
01-02-2010, 09:44 PM
ah, forgot about that pilot bearing puller. I had to use the slide hammer type because the standard puller type didn't work.

Spartan7
01-02-2010, 11:20 PM
Rent a tranny jack, makes it MUCH easier. And about 30" of extensions. You'll also need a big screwdriver to hold the flywheel while you loosen the bolts, and a breaker bar would help.

darknessxyz
01-02-2010, 11:27 PM
My mechanic friend said, there's a special tool for the bolt on the clutch disc. Is that true?

SWEET98SS
01-02-2010, 11:39 PM
There is no special tool. Unless hes talking about the clutch alignment tool that comes with the clutch. It holds the clutch plate centered while because the shaft from your tranny wont be in there to hold it centered. I also used the slide hammer pilot bearing puller. The only thing is, the one from autozone didnt fit inside, I had to bust part of the bearing race out to fit mine it.

I would definetely either buy or rent a tranny jack. I bought one from harbor freight, I ended up not using it because I would of had to raise my car another 10 inches to get it under the car. I used 2 jacks, one of the front and one of the back of the tranny , it sucked. a tranny jack makes it 1000 times easier. I am buying a good one if i ever have to pull the tranny again.

darknessxyz
01-03-2010, 02:08 PM
OK, thanx alot for the info. About the installation, anything I need to pay attention to or be careful of? If I just follow the write-up from InstallUniversity.com, I should get the job done no problem right?

NHRATA01
01-04-2010, 11:48 AM
A 24" straight extension works great to get those top trans to bellhousing bolts from near the back of trans. To hold the flywheel, I found the best way was to use a breaker bar or long ratchet on the balancer bolt, rotated to contact the chasis. This then holds the rotating assembly in one place while you remove or torque the flywheel bolts.

wrd1972
01-04-2010, 02:36 PM
Rent a tranny jack, makes it MUCH easier. And about 30" of extensions. You'll also need a big screwdriver to hold the flywheel while you loosen the bolts, and a breaker bar would help.

If you are going to use a tranny adapter that you would use on a regular floorjack, be prepared to get the car very high off the ground. I real tranny jack wont have this problem as bad.

I made a small cradle out of 2x6 lumber that screws down to the pad on the floorjack. It cradles the tranny and drops it right down.

Only real special tool needed (but not required) is a pilot bushing puller. You can also pound in with a hammer, lots soaking wet toilet paper into the hole and the bushing will pop out. Yes I verified that this works.

jutt26
01-04-2010, 05:02 PM
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/1203249-things-i-learned-during-my-clutch-install.html

From when I did mine a month ago.

71novaguy
01-04-2010, 07:51 PM
Only real special tool needed (but not required) is a pilot bushing puller. You can also pound in with a hammer, lots soaking wet toilet paper into the hole and the bushing will pop out. Yes I verified that this works.


bad idea. there is plug in the crank.

Atver300
01-04-2010, 08:07 PM
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/1203249-things-i-learned-during-my-clutch-install.html

From when I did mine a month ago.

I just watched the video in the link, and thats some funny stuff. If you cant get a friend to come help you pull and re install the trans try laying on your back under the car and rolling the trans up on you put the end that attaches to the bell housing on your knees and hold the tailshaft end with your hands and just stick it in. It sound harder than it is, its very easy this way. much better than your $1500 dollar trans falling off two jacks.

araber89
01-04-2010, 09:15 PM
I just watched the video in the link, and thats some funny stuff. If you cant get a friend to come help you pull and re install the trans try laying on your back under the car and rolling the trans up on you put the end that attaches to the bell housing on your knees and hold the tailshaft end with your hands and just stick it in. It sound harder than it is, its very easy this way. much better than your $1500 dollar trans falling off two jacks.

Thats almost crazy enough to sound like it could work...

wrd1972
01-05-2010, 09:28 AM
bad idea. there is plug in the crank.

Fair enough. I did not know there is a plug in a LS1 crank. In LT1 land, the toilet paper does work.

NHRATA01
01-05-2010, 12:38 PM
Only real special tool needed (but not required) is a pilot bushing puller. You can also pound in with a hammer, lots soaking wet toilet paper into the hole and the bushing will pop out. Yes I verified that this works.

Yes, DO NOT do the tp method or grease method to pop out the bearing, you will instead pop out the pressed in plug on the crank and be in deep poop.

I bought the cheap small 3-jaw bearing puller from harbor freight and used 2 of the jaws with a bit of grinding, and was able to get the old bearing out. Destroyed it in the process, but it worked.

mayerichm
01-05-2010, 06:17 PM
I also found it easier to position the tranny by hand. once you drain the fluid its really not THAT heavy. Plus once your at that point i was so pissed that i could throw that damn thing.

01 Trans-Am WS6
01-06-2010, 02:03 AM
I had the trans in and out of my car probably 8-9 times now all by hand (no trans jacks) and with the car on jackstands in my garage (no lift). You really don't need any special tools that I can recall. I didn't do my master so I can't ask any questions about that.

Sometimes when reinstalling the trans it will be a pain in the ass to get it 100% lined up and 100% flush against the bellhousing. Just curse at it, wiggle it around, curse at it more, mess with it more, a few more curses and it will finally pop right in as your about to give up. Believe me on it that works. Also the slave may be tricky to pop off the steel line, you have to get down in the tabs with something small and thin and slide it off. Once you do it one time you will get the hang of it.

99firebird-ta
01-11-2010, 05:37 PM
no special tool .... u need jack stand too make it easy...


call me..

rabiddog
01-11-2010, 06:43 PM
Go rent a sky jack it will make life a lot easier!!!

darknessxyz
01-24-2010, 06:03 AM
Quick question, except for the pilot bearing, what else I need to replace when I pull out the tranny?

Here's what I've:
LS7 clutch/pressure plate with LS2 flywheel
02 stock maser cylinder with drill mod and adjustable mod
02 stock slave cylinder

NHRATA01
01-24-2010, 08:28 PM
Wouldn't be a bad idea to get a Tick remote bleeder, to replace the useless bleeder on the slave. Also ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts are a good choice.

darknessxyz
01-24-2010, 08:56 PM
Wouldn't be a bad idea to get a Tick remote bleeder, to replace the useless bleeder on the slave. Also ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts are a good choice.
Can I re-use the old bolts?

SWEET98SS
01-24-2010, 08:59 PM
I believe you can reuse the old ones. I bought all new flywheel and pressure plate bolts for $20, the flywheel come with loctite on them. dont forget to use loctite on the pressure plate bolts

joblo1978
02-09-2010, 09:20 PM
I agree with what everyone has said. Hope you have some guns, the T56 is heavy.

Make sure you torque the pressure plate down a little bit at a time. Give each bolt a turn, remove the alignment tool, twist it, torque some more, remove tool, twist, insert it again. You have to have the pressure plate perfectly lined up or the input shaft will not go in.

Once you start to tighten it, it can move around. This took me a few tries to get right. I couldn't figure out why the tranny wouldn't go back in, fought and cussed with it for hours.

Alignment tools suck, they're hollow and plastic. If you feel ANY resistance on the tool when inserting it, removing, and putting it back in, go back and get it right.

Also, that pilot bearing is really tough. I tried cutting and prying it out. I tried several pullers, broke some, and finally found this puller that had strong teeth that would fit behind it. You will need a slide hammer for sure.


Hyrdaulic line going into the slave is a bitch along with some of those bellhousinf bolts!

It's fun and a good feeling when you get it done. Big job!

Here's some pics from when I did mine.

I can't say enough about a remote bleeder as well. Literally made bleeding a two minute job and completely got all the old fluid out.

Also, replace all the fluid in through the top when you put a new shifter in too. Mine's a 5.0.

New monster clutch, flywheel, slave, pilot bearing, shifter, fluids, and knowing that everything is bled perfectly. Awesome!

http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/26776241061.jpg?1236883655

http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/26776241063.jpg?1236883670

http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/26776241055.jpg?1236883614

araber89
02-09-2010, 11:58 PM
I agree with what everyone has said. Hope you have some guns, the T56 is heavy.

Make sure you torque the pressure plate down a little bit at a time. Give each bolt a turn, remove the alignment tool, twist it, torque some more, remove tool, twist, insert it again. You have to have the pressure plate perfectly lined up or the input shaft will not go in.

Once you start to tighten it, it can move around. This took me a few tries to get right. I couldn't figure out why the tranny wouldn't go back in, fought and cussed with it for hours.

Alignment tools suck, they're hollow and plastic. If you feel ANY resistance on the tool when inserting it, removing, and putting it back in, go back and get it right.

Also, that pilot bearing is really tough. I tried cutting and prying it out. I tried several pullers, broke some, and finally found this puller that had strong teeth that would fit behind it. You will need a slide hammer for sure.


Hyrdaulic line going into the slave is a bitch along with some of those bellhousinf bolts!

It's fun and a good feeling when you get it done. Big job!

Here's some pics from when I did mine.

I can't say enough about a remote bleeder as well. Literally made bleeding a two minute job and completely got all the old fluid out.

Also, replace all the fluid in through the top when you put a new shifter in too. Mine's a 5.0.

New monster clutch, flywheel, slave, pilot bearing, shifter, fluids, and knowing that everything is bled perfectly. Awesome!

http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/26776241063.jpg?1236883670

This is very helpful info to keep in mind. I'm planning on starting mine soon. The car is up on jack stands. I just need to go at it. Also I have that work light in the left side of this picture. LOVE IT!! :D :D

99Bluz28
02-10-2010, 12:31 AM
24" or longer wobble extension, plenty of time, trans jack.

therobman
02-10-2010, 05:33 AM
the bolts are easy to get with some extensions the clutch and pp is easy only tough part is getting the tranny allined while on ur back idc what anyone says you really need two guys its very hard for one person to wobble it in

99firebird-ta
02-24-2010, 04:17 AM
U install the clutch already

the_merv
02-24-2010, 06:43 AM
Speed Bleeder is a definate..:nod:

A good Clutch Alignment Tool is an old Input Shaft if you can find one.

I also found it easier to position the tranny by hand. once you drain the fluid its really not THAT heavy. Plus once your at that point i was so pissed that i could throw that damn thing.

I hear ya..it helps to get a little mad..lol..

I've been under it myself and got ahold of it good, stuck it in, held it, and a friend put the Bolts in. I got tired of messin with cause it wouldn't line up with the both of us holding it..I got ahold of it, gave it a good shove, and it was in..lol

darknessxyz
03-12-2010, 06:50 AM
I still have no time to install the damn clutch and fix the rear main seal. Can you believe that 3 out of my 5 cars broken down all at the same time LOL.

I might have someone else do the clutch for me. I just have to gather all the parts I need. I checked on Kragen for the pilot bearing but not sure which one is which. Is it the M/T Main Shaft Pilot Bearing (http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=937&ptset=A&searchfor=M%2fT+Main+Shaft+Pilot+Bearing)? Except for Kragen, where can/should I get the pilot bearing from?