darknessxyz

iTrader: (22)

It looks like my rear main seal is leaking, that means it's about time to do the clutch. Is there any special tools I need for the installation? Other than the rear main seal and clutch, I'll also replace the master and slave cylinder. Keep in mind I'll be doing all the work in my home garage, meaning everything will be on the ground and no lift.

This is my first time replacing clutch (I've experience in other engine work) and there'll be a mechanic friend working with me. I found this clutch install write up at InstallUniversity.com. Any other area I need to pay attention to? I'll get a tranny floor jack from harbor freight.

Any help will be appreciate.

71novaguy

iTrader: (2)

Extensions and u-joints with an air impact do wonders for disassembly, on the low setting, it does well putting it back together (not for final assembly tho).

I did make some 2x4 blocks to set under the front tires (stacked 3 high) to free up some room under the car.

SWEET98SS

iTrader: (8)

I rented a puller from autozone for the pinion bearing in the back of the block. They give you your money back when your done. My monster clutch came with a new bearing so I put it in.

71novaguy

iTrader: (2)

ah, forgot about that pilot bearing puller. I had to use the slide hammer type because the standard puller type didn't work.

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

Rent a tranny jack, makes it MUCH easier. And about 30" of extensions. You'll also need a big screwdriver to hold the flywheel while you loosen the bolts, and a breaker bar would help.

darknessxyz

iTrader: (22)

My mechanic friend said, there's a special tool for the bolt on the clutch disc. Is that true?

SWEET98SS

iTrader: (8)

There is no special tool. Unless hes talking about the clutch alignment tool that comes with the clutch. It holds the clutch plate centered while because the shaft from your tranny wont be in there to hold it centered. I also used the slide hammer pilot bearing puller. The only thing is, the one from autozone didnt fit inside, I had to bust part of the bearing race out to fit mine it.

I would definetely either buy or rent a tranny jack. I bought one from harbor freight, I ended up not using it because I would of had to raise my car another 10 inches to get it under the car. I used 2 jacks, one of the front and one of the back of the tranny , it sucked. a tranny jack makes it 1000 times easier. I am buying a good one if i ever have to pull the tranny again.

darknessxyz

iTrader: (22)

OK, thanx alot for the info. About the installation, anything I need to pay attention to or be careful of? If I just follow the write-up from InstallUniversity.com, I should get the job done no problem right?

NHRATA01

iTrader: (10)

A 24" straight extension works great to get those top trans to bellhousing bolts from near the back of trans. To hold the flywheel, I found the best way was to use a breaker bar or long ratchet on the balancer bolt, rotated to contact the chasis. This then holds the rotating assembly in one place while you remove or torque the flywheel bolts.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

If you are going to use a tranny adapter that you would use on a regular floorjack, be prepared to get the car very high off the ground. I real tranny jack wont have this problem as bad.

I made a small cradle out of 2x6 lumber that screws down to the pad on the floorjack. It cradles the tranny and drops it right down.

Only real special tool needed (but not required) is a pilot bushing puller. You can also pound in with a hammer, lots soaking wet toilet paper into the hole and the bushing will pop out. Yes I verified that this works.

jutt26

iTrader: (2)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...h-install.html

From when I did mine a month ago.

71novaguy

iTrader: (2)

bad idea. there is plug in the crank.

Atver300

iTrader: (8)

I just watched the video in the link, and thats some funny stuff. If you cant get a friend to come help you pull and re install the trans try laying on your back under the car and rolling the trans up on you put the end that attaches to the bell housing on your knees and hold the tailshaft end with your hands and just stick it in. It sound harder than it is, its very easy this way. much better than your $1500 dollar trans falling off two jacks.

araber89

iTrader: (3)

Thats almost crazy enough to sound like it could work...

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Fair enough. I did not know there is a plug in a LS1 crank. In LT1 land, the toilet paper does work.

NHRATA01

iTrader: (10)

Yes, DO NOT do the tp method or grease method to pop out the bearing, you will instead pop out the pressed in plug on the crank and be in deep poop.

I bought the cheap small 3-jaw bearing puller from harbor freight and used 2 of the jaws with a bit of grinding, and was able to get the old bearing out. Destroyed it in the process, but it worked.

mayerichm

I also found it easier to position the tranny by hand. once you drain the fluid its really not THAT heavy. Plus once your at that point i was so pissed that i could throw that damn thing.

01 Trans-Am WS6

iTrader: (5)

I had the trans in and out of my car probably 8-9 times now all by hand (no trans jacks) and with the car on jackstands in my garage (no lift). You really don't need any special tools that I can recall. I didn't do my master so I can't ask any questions about that.

Sometimes when reinstalling the trans it will be a pain in the *** to get it 100% lined up and 100% flush against the bellhousing. Just curse at it, wiggle it around, curse at it more, mess with it more, a few more curses and it will finally pop right in as your about to give up. Believe me on it that works. Also the slave may be tricky to pop off the steel line, you have to get down in the tabs with something small and thin and slide it off. Once you do it one time you will get the hang of it.

99firebird-ta

no special tool .... u need jack stand too make it easy...


call me..

rabiddog

iTrader: (1)

Go rent a sky jack it will make life a lot easier!!!