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Uh guys, can I get a little help?

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Old 01-07-2010, 03:51 AM
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Default Uh guys, can I get a little help?

Im in the middle of swapping my 853s to 317s. I got block cleaned and thought for ***** and giggles, ill turn the engine over by hand. It wont :/ Engine hasnt been ran since mid-Sept, I pulled the oil pan and timing chain cover off for about 2-3 weeks. Car is being stored in the garage, its room temperature in there when Im working on it otherwise its probably about 40-50 degrees. Ive added a double roller timing chain and ls6 oil pump along with a March UD pulley. Its in neutral. Wtf guys. Im pretty sure I over torqued the bolts that go between the oilpan and bell housing, could that be binding up the fly wheel? Help me
Old 01-07-2010, 05:39 AM
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I dont think thats possible for the pan and bell housing to hit the flywheel. U would break that alumin. Go back and take off the timing chain the bolts may be hitting the block also try some pb blaster in the bores the rings may have alittle rust on them. also chceck the pick up tbe for the oil pump and make sure the the pump hase the proper spacing for the double roller. You might have to grind the front timing cover alitlte.
Old 01-07-2010, 09:08 AM
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I think Outlaw may have hit the nail on the head about the timieng chain cover
This is why i installed a LS2 timing chain on my build because of this reason and from what ive read about installing aftermarket timeing chains on LS engines
Old 01-07-2010, 12:02 PM
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Most double rollers requires require clearancing/spacing. I just had one installed at the machine shop doing my engine build and he mentioned quite a lot went in to getting everything perfect. Take that double roller off and try putting your stock one back on. If you threw it away get an LS2 timing chain. Plenty strong compared to the old LS1 chains.
Old 01-07-2010, 01:26 PM
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We have encountered several sets of Manley Double Roller timing sets where the cam sprocket is not machined correctly. The sprocket sits too far onto the camshaft and causes it to bind against the retaining plate. Manley is aware of the situation and should replace it for you if this is the problem.
Old 01-07-2010, 03:29 PM
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Clearances looked ok when I put it on originally, but I can give it a shot.
Old 01-07-2010, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by mwill15
We have encountered several sets of Manley Double Roller timing sets where the cam sprocket is not machined correctly. The sprocket sits too far onto the camshaft and causes it to bind against the retaining plate. Manley is aware of the situation and should replace it for you if this is the problem.
Its a roller master. Ill just throw the stock one on, this sucks
Old 01-07-2010, 03:51 PM
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i agree about the timing chain rubbing the cover ... i had the exact same combo as you years ago (march pulley, roller master double roller, ls6 pump) and had all sorts of problems. It was all traced back to the double chain rubbing, replaced it with an ls2 and been good ever since.
Old 01-07-2010, 04:14 PM
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Man. I must be lucky. I have the fancy dual rollmaster and ls6 pump with no issue.
Old 01-07-2010, 06:07 PM
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ya it MIGHT be the timing chain.... did you use those pacers that come in the kit?????

Are you on it with a ratchet/breaker bar? or are you literally trying to turn it by hand?
Old 01-07-2010, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 1BAD_LS1
ya it MIGHT be the timing chain.... did you use those pacers that come in the kit?????

Are you on it with a ratchet/breaker bar? or are you literally trying to turn it by hand?
Dont be an asshat, lol. Im practically bending my breaker bar trying to turn it. I used the spacers
Old 01-07-2010, 06:34 PM
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I really feel like this is a flywheel issue, Im putting over 200ft lbs onto the crank bolt and its not moving a MM. Even if the timing chain were rubbing or anything it would still move just not easily.
Old 01-07-2010, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by XtremeDime
I really feel like this is a flywheel issue, Im putting over 200ft lbs onto the crank bolt and its not moving a MM. Even if the timing chain were rubbing or anything it would still move just not easily.
Hey Extreme,, When you put the flywheel on did you check for the clearances needed between the flywheel and converter? It may be binding on you tranny pump if it needed shimmed and you forgot or didnt check? I had to shim my brand new TCI when i put in my Rossler stage 3 last winter and was told by Rossler that it could bind on the tranny pump if it wernt shimmed correctly? Ide maybe pull the starter and plugs for ***** and gigles and try again just to see. I dont know ,,,just trying to throw some ideas at ya
I just thought about what i said here LOL and am doubting its the flywheel too, because if it were,,,,you wouldnt have been able to turn and tighten all of the flywheel/converter bolts when installing it if it were binding on the tranny pump. Ide say timing chain cover again! but would still maybe pull the starter and give it one more shot
Old 01-07-2010, 08:20 PM
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well he has never pulled the motor from the tranny.. so thats not the issue.... the car was running fine when he parked it

the only thing he has done with the motor was remove the heads (still off the car) and installed the timing chain....

It has to be something to do with the timing chain as he never messed with anything else....
Old 01-07-2010, 08:56 PM
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Ok guys heres whats up. I went to pull the March UD pulley, I got it pulled out a couple millimeters then BLAMO starts turning over. Apparently I managed to overtorque the crank pulley bolt. I feel like im the first person to ever manage to overtorque this ****** thing lol
Old 01-07-2010, 08:59 PM
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Could it be because I used a new GM bolt as opposed to one that would normally come with March or am I the Hulk?? hahaha
Old 01-07-2010, 10:15 PM
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dont you have to mill the end of some underdrive pulleys when running double rollers because they butt up on the gear on the crank and can bind up

i remember asp's were like that
Old 01-07-2010, 11:53 PM
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Can anyone tell me how to repair threads for the crank snout? I fear they need to be straightened out
Old 01-08-2010, 07:37 AM
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I dont think you mess them up also check the o ring in the timing cover make sure u dident mess that up or you will leak oil badly. I would buy another bolt locktight it and tourq it down to spec. You would have to really spin that bolt to mess those threads up I mean spin it past the stopping point and keep going lol.
Old 01-08-2010, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by OUTLAWZ RACING
I dont think you mess them up also check the o ring in the timing cover make sure u dident mess that up or you will leak oil badly. I would buy another bolt locktight it and tourq it down to spec. You would have to really spin that bolt to mess those threads up I mean spin it past the stopping point and keep going lol.
get an ARP crank bolt, its 30 dollars worth of cheap insurance.

when you install the pulley your supposed to gently run it all the way in, then torque it to roughly 250 foot pounds to seat it good, then back the bolt out and torque it to the correct number. Nineball and LMR did a write up with pics thats posted on PlanetLSX.com.

why dont you call a few performance shops and ask them if theyve had this prob? there usually willing to help any time ive called em with a problem


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