johnzss

iTrader: (11)

I have a 2000 LS1
Recently bought a LS7 clutch/pressure plate/flywheel. (off a crate motor)

Did my research, and this suppose to be a bolt on application. The problem my mechanic is having: When the wheels are off the ground, its shifts. When the car is back on the ground, it wont go into gear? Ive read about a common issue that you must bleed the system out from the reservior and also is best to use a vaccuum.

This is my local mechanic (not a performance shop)
I figure i would take it to him since from what ive read this is a easy bolt on application. He also mentioned that the stock pressure plate sits higher.. see pics.

What should i do next? Should i buy a new TOB? slave cylinder? Take it to a performance shop?
The tranny is out, i have both clutches out in my garage right now. pretty much is left is assembly which is our roadblock at the momemt. Any info will be much appretiated!

LS7 side view


stock LS1 side view






-also one of the springs (yellow one) in between the clutch as pictured below is sliding from side to side, while the other ones are not. is that normal?

mediocrels1

hmm i have no idea why the wheels touching the ground would affect shifting ability. i would definitely get a new slave though...and make 100% sure the system is bled very well. my friend and i spent a good 30 min bleeding my system without a vacuum after my ls7 install. no problems here.

good luck

DaddySS

Stating the obvious - the LS7 and flywheel should be a direct bolt in. Did you have a good strong pedal? It sounds like uou simply didn't get all the air out and a vacuum bleeder is defintely the way to go:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...3624_200023624
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...75JYEY4HJY3EPK
http://www.mechanicstoolsupply.com/b...it/index.html#
It's $50 or so well spent.
I wouldn't worry too much about the height of the fingers on the clutch, what matters there is the height once it is torqued down on the flywheel. The anti chatter springs just sit in there and some may be tighter than others, so don't worry about that too much.
You could torque the clutches down on the flywheel and double check the height as a next step. The part number on the flywheel is correct so I would assume the disc is correct too. I would get a mity vac, bolt it up and bleed it and I suspect you will be fine. Make sure you torque it down in three passes, use a new pilot bushing, and be certain that the slave is good.

johnzss

iTrader: (11)

^^ thank you for your feedback! This whole ordeal made me think about a few other clutches.. I started another thread regarding my clutch decision. For those wont mind sharing their input, feel free! I hope to have a decision by monday.

LS7 / Spec 3 / Monster 3 clutch decision

Kurtomac

iTrader: (5)

the pic makes it look weird cuz its not bolted downt ot he flywheel...measure for a shim...worst case you need a slave shim..bleed bleed bleed
nuff said

Z28/2002

iTrader: (27)

It is normal for the yellow spring to move around, both of the LS7 setups I've had were like that

johnzss

iTrader: (11)

Do i need to bleed it if the slave was never removed? Should i just get a new slave cylinder and pilot bearing even if mine are fine?

toneloc60

iTrader: (7)

Had you already installed the updated slave cylinder, or are you still running the stock unit from 2000? You do know those were known to have issues, right?

I recommend running the updated slave and a new pilot bearing. You're in there anyway, just replace it so you have less chance for issues later.

johnzss

iTrader: (11)

yes i am running stock from a 2000. 96k miles.
Youre right, i might as well since its taken apart. From what ive read, the slave comes with the throwout bearing correct? There for i'll be replacing slave+TOB (together from GM) and pilot bearing? I rather spend the extra dollar than be screwed down the line

toneloc60

iTrader: (7)

You'll only be replacing the slave and the pilot bearing. The TOB is part of the slave.

Read up on bench bleeding the slave. The thing is a motherf%cker to bleed from dry under the car.

pewter99ls1

I replaced my clutch with an ls7 clutch, pressure plate, and slave in my 99 Z28. At first it would drive but would not fully disengage. Therefore even with the clutch pedal all the way in, the clutch was not fully disengaged. The system was completely bench bled. I didn't have any problems with my clutch master cylinder so I never replaced it. Once I went back in and replaced the clutch master cylinder, and rebled the system again, everything was great. I felt pretty confident in my case, it was not air in the system and just that i needed to update my clutch master cylinder. Might as well replace the master cylinder in addition to slave. Good luck

DaddySS

There's no question as far as I'm concerned - the LS7 is as good a choice as any and you already have it. Put a new slave, TOB and pilot bushing in there, get the mity vac bleeder and you'll be good to go.

hivoltagedriver

iTrader: (1)

Definitly replace the slave while the clutch is out, especially with that many miles on it. The Monster Premium kits come with a new slave BTW.

johnzss

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for the input everyone! Yeah, new slave, pilot bearing and master will get replaced while im at it. hopefully parts are in stock tomorrow at GM.

SSmokin99

iTrader: (7)

That's weird! My LS7 clutch went in without a problem.

johnzss

iTrader: (11)

New slave/TOB, pilot bearing installed. Got the mityVac from OEM tools (autozone) didnt work as great as I others say. I might have just got a faulty one because as i was pumping the gun, air would leak through the cap of the mityVac resovior. Anyways, fluid was completely drained out, replaced with new dot 3/4 fluid.

Clutch pedal felt normal. As i stepped on it all the way down, same problem. It will go into gear off the ground. When on the ground it wont. When in gear OFF the ground, tire spins.The clutch is pretty much not disengaging from my understanding. Should I Replace with adj. master? or re bleed??? $500 already in the drain paying for labor while it was in the shop. Im doing my next clutch job, hate paying for labor if you dont need to. oh well.

johnzss

iTrader: (11)

Im going to answer my own question... Im buying a tick tomorrow.

Jonathan@Tick

iTrader: (5)

I can almost gaurantee you that you clutch isn't getting a full dissengagement. Some may tell you to use a shim with the LS7 but most I've actually measured do not. Our cylinder WILL fix your issue.

toneloc60

iTrader: (7)

I did not need a shim when I did mine, it was also a 2000 Z28. Nor did I change the master. I only replace the slave and the pilot bearing.

m2g4b

iTrader: (8)

a shop here in oklahoma is doing mine right now, and he said that i wouldnt need a shim for mine. its a 2002 trans am...putting a ls7 clutch in it...stock master and stock slave...

for the ones that didnt need a shim, where is your engagement point with the pedal? closer to the floor or about the same as stock?