huram griffin

I am doing 5.3L swap into a 1965 buick lesabre. I have come across a few issues thus far. The centerlink runs right behind the front cross member and the pan will have to be cut to accommodate this. The truck manifolds will have to be axed in favor of the c5 manifolds that are longer and will pass the stock steering box. I am using stock 1998 camaro motor mounts and frame mounts to situate the motor. I am using plus nuts, round tubing, and 1/4 inch steel to fab up the trans cross member and I am going to have a 1 piece driveshaft made. Here are a few pics to start......

huram griffin

pics

huram griffin

end of the night

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

I love those cars but I hate the suspension! Rear steer cars are a real PITA for engine swaps. Where was the sump on the factory engine?

Can't wait to see more progress on this one.

Are you going to have AC since it was there factory or use the top all the time?

huram griffin

yeah it will have a/c and the sump is in the rear on the factory engine and the swap engine. I was thinking of the gto pan, but the sump might hit the front cross member so i have some measuring and trial and error ahead of me.

huram griffin

the more i play with the engine location, the more i see that it;s almost impossible to get this motor to work with this steering. I'm thinking of getting a gto front sump pan and cutting it to fit, but it seems like a lot more money. what do you all think?

kwhizz

The GTO set-up is a Cheap way to solve the problem......I've seen them on Ebay for around $200, but...make sure you get all the parts.....Pick-up, windage tray, etc

Ken

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Another option which may not be cheap since I've never priced it is dry sump. That means new pan, oil pump, lines and remote tank. Honestly that was the first idea I had when I saw the car. Another option may be the LS1 / 6 Corvette "batwing" pan but I don't know what the measurements are on it. That may still not afford you enough depth. Hmmm...

You said the original engine was rear sump?! How much room do you have to the firewall? Not trying to sound silly but can you move the engine back further? Is the trans fill tube in the way? If so you may try a Lokar flexible unit like I did. I used the "muscle Car Oil Pan Kit" from GMPP in my last build and it is supposed to be a Gen III version of the old school Gen I / II pan. I never measured or compared it directly against one before I installed it but it looked similar. It's only $150 with everything (gasket, pan, dipstick, windage tray, pickup tube and bolts). I can't tell from the picture's angle if that is even an option but the sump isn't as deep or as long as the truck pan I took off my engine.

huram griffin

yeah i checked on the muscle car kit and it wont suffice either. i may have to just cut the firewall and trans tunnel back and just modify the truck pan

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Well darn, I'm out of ideas past that one. Sorry.
Think of it this way, at least you will get better handling by moving the engine back.

rotor vs. piston

iTrader: (3)

Ha, I was going to clean up mine tomorrow to put up for sale starting @250 + shipping. I had to use the H3 pan. See how that works out.

huram griffin

Yeah i ordered the pan, windage tray, dipstick tube and pickup from the dealer today and with my discount everything came out to $325. here are a few picture of cutting up the frame to make clearance for the new pan
just a little welding and grinding and i'll be done with this part

huram griffin

here are the pictures of the frame welded up. I'm still waiting on the oil pan to see if i have to modify it. sorry all i use is my camera phone these days!

huram griffin

a few pics of the days progress!

huram griffin

Ive been making a little progress. i have the engine and trans mounted solid, just have to finish up the firewall. here are a few pics

huram griffin

tonytone4143

So is this beast runing??? I am about to start this on a 65