BLK:UFO

my car is stock for now, tax money is coming and i want to treat my car to some goodies, what should be my 1st mod: i don't want to lower my car much, maybe a lil lower than it sits now but not much

HAZ-Matt

iTrader: (8)

How much are you looking to spend?

Regardless, the correct answer is shocks. If you can swing it, then Koni SA's all around and you could use the lower spring perch in the front and do the hose mod on the rear. That way your car will feel like it handles 100x better than stock and you would get a slight drop.

BLK:UFO

seems like everyone has koni's! i use my car only for drag races, are qa1's better for drag?

Z28M6TT

+1 for shocks... worst of the suspension problems from the factory.

BLK:UFO

ok shocks it is... no need to see what brand is best for drag...

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

unfortunately most drag shocks aren't great for street driving. koni's are great all around. the car will ride unbelievably well.

BLK:UFO

ok i'll keep those in mind, any others have different shocks they like for drag racing??? also whats the next mod after this i should get... sfc? are bolt on ok ?

ThoR294

iTrader: (6)

I love my Strano Springs and Koni 4/4 combo. now it really handles... the drop is perfect.



i always said I would never drop my car. but after seeing other peoples cars on stranos... I love it.

My first mod was SFCs and trailing arms. They were easy and cheap. but if u can shell out some cash... definitely shocks/springs

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hello
Just another suggestion for you is I would look into a rear suspension package (features a new set of rear control arms and a adjustable pan hard bar) for your situation to allow you center the rear under the vehicle. And also a set of lower control arm relocation brackets to allow you to adjust the lower control arms to the correct angle. And doing so will increase your traction performance and eliminate wheel hoping issues. If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...e8g83vgd3it8a2

Thanks
Brad

Oso SS

iTrader: (3)

tubular k-member.

BLK:UFO

car looks damn good lowered, i want to lower the front but keep the rear as is, might do the hose mod like someone said on here...
that would be like one of my last steps i think, only thing i see good from coming with this is saving weight??

BLK:UFO

Thanks man!

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

what you buy first depends on your budget... while most any aftermarket suspension part is gonna be better than stock for racing/performance, you really need a combination of things to make it all work together correctly.

if you are into drag racing a bit then don't lower your car. the lower center of gravity will not help the launch at all, maybe even slow it down.

We have sold lots of these parts and in all combinations, and we race what we sell. I would do shocks and lca relocators first, then lca's and a good torque arm. an adjustable phb is never a bad idea, but if you leave your car at stock height, then the phb will not affect drag racing performance for you. Strange shocks are the best deal out there. QA1 shocks are more costly, and imported. AFCO shocks are the best on the market, but a tad more cost than Strange.

be careful with what some sales people call "subframe connectors". a heavy piece of 2x2(or round) that connects the chassis lca mount to the rocker panel and then to the forward floor support is not a subframe connector. it is nothing more than a "jacking rail" and only prevents a careless person that doesn't know what they're doing from collapsing the pinch weld at the bottom of the rocker with a hoist of floor jack. the chassis lca mounts are plenty strong in these cars to withstand abuse from the average street/strip car, and the rocker panel is the strongest part of the chassis. why add weight there and still not connect the real "subframes" in the car? a real subframe connector will attach the actual subframe rails together and are straight inline, not bent. also... bolt-in chassis stiffening components are for the most part worthless, imo. there will be flex/tolerance at the connecting points that the forces applying to the component will for sure overcome the bolt-together areas. i guarantee that if someone were to do back-to-back test passes/runs that there will be no difference in performance with bolt-on stiffening components. maybe faster without due to the weight loss.

I have all the correct parts for you and what you are trying to do, at the best prices, and the experience to back it up. pm me with some info on your car and what you have for a budget and i will hook you up with the best bang for the buck.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

No Problem! If you need anything else leave me know.
Thanks
Brad

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

really hoping that was a joke haha

BLK:UFO

thank you ssvert99 tax money is coming in very soon i'll keep you in mind

sully91rs

Subframe connectors. Not sure how effective stiff shocks will be if the chassis is flexing. On my stock crap decarbons I could feel the body flex in tight turns before getting the sfcs.

If you know someone with an F-body and sfcs try and go for a ride in it. You'll notice a difference after the first bump in the road or the first tight turn.

Good luck with the decision, whatever you get will car rock

BLK:UFO

yea i read a lot about the sub frames and theres a lot of people saying that theres a big difference, and i know its true but i want mods for drag racing car, so im getting the shocks 1st then springs to firm up my ride to hook better and transfor the weight to the back where i need it

JD_AMG

I'm sorry but I don't see a modern day steel car flexing in turns on street tires on the street, the grip is not there to cause flex. What you are feeling is the shitty valving of the stock shocks, it gives the perception of the car flexing because the front and rear are behaving differently. The front feels disconnected and "limp", while the rear feels overly stiff, and jittery and overall the car feels sloppy and jellow-ish right?
Thats the shocks.
On otherwise stock suspension, when you push the car hard in turns and it feels nervous and twitchy, thats the shocks.
Or when the rear end unpredictably snaps over in a turn, thats the shocks. And loose, floaty, disconnected, sloppy feel is the shocks. When the car bobs and weaves on bumps or at speed, thats the shocks.

You certainly may notice the difference in bumps, Ive ridden in a car before/after a SFC install and it became much more jarring but still had the perceived "flex" (it was still on stock shocks), the car was still loose and jellow-ish. The only difference they made was the rear of the car rode much more jarring, nothing else.
If you want to make your car all around more solid, stable and a hell of a lot more fun to drive get some good shocks. Good shocks are not "stiff" shocks, they are valved better and will control the car much better.

mad_steve

iTrader: (2)

You're options are almost endless with a stock car. The first thing you want to consider is, what are you looking to accomplish with this car. Then, you wanna look at how the car reacts when you drive it. Obviously, you want to correct any problems that you have before upgrading any of the suspension components. I'd look at either getting a good set of double adjustable shocks, or possibly lower control arms, panhard rod, and lower control arm relocation brackets. You might not need the lca relocates. Before buying them, check the angle of your lca's. If they run uphill towards the front of the car (body mount higher than the rear-end mount), then you don't need the relocates. If the lca's are level or run uphill towards the rear of the car, then you definitely need the relocates.

Give me a call at the shop when you get a chance. I'll go over some other options with you, and can give you pricing on everything. Our number is 225-673-3533. Ask for Steve.