Pro_built7

iTrader: (9)

I've searched and haven't found the answer I'm looking for.

I really want to know what the advantage is to adjustable suspension parts (LCA/PHB/TA) I'm looking to buy some lca's and rel. brackets.

My car has strano springs on the rear so it's lowered a little I get hardly any traction when i get on it. I really want to increase traction and get the darn thing to hook (disregard tires).

It's a street car that probably won't ever see a road course and very rarely a drag strip.

What susp. parts should I get to try and make it hook better ?

thanks !

Pro_built7

iTrader: (9)

to the sponsors:
I'm literally sitting here waiting to give you my business for the right advice lol.

Z28M6TT

the point of the adjustable rear suspension parts is to get the rear axle centered and straight under the car. some cars from the factory didnt really have the rear centered under the car. on my car for example the driver side rear wheel is a little farther forward then the passenger (reason for adjustable LCAs). also a BIG reason to get adjustable is when you lower the car. when you drop it its going to mess up your pinion angle and shift the axle towards the driver side (reason for adj PHB and TA). this is especially important if your running wide tires in the rear. when i put my 17x11s on with stock suspension i saw the rear was shifted noticeably to the driver side.

hope this helps.

Z28M6TT

...also if your looking for some LCA's, since you said your doing mostly street i would recommend either roto-joints or rod ends for at least one side of the arms. poly/poly have been known to cause suspension binding and bend lca mounting brackets because they dont really allow for twisting movement (ie during cornering when the car leans to one side).

99zee

iTrader: (4)

Brad from UMI has been very helpful with info on the pieces I need. He is on here alot, but this is a weekend. During the weekdays, he is on here early.

GoHardZ28

Z28M6TT is right...
All that adj. is to center the rear end. Panhard bar moves it left/right and the adj. LCA's will move it forward or backwards. If you have lowering springs in the rear you will definitley need an adj. panhard bar. If you have a factory 10 bolt rear end and dont plan on changing it anytime soon just stick with some non-adj. LCA's. If you want traction buy the bolt in (for the factory 10 bolt) or weld in (for aftermarket rear ends) LCA's relocation brackets!!! You will hook up nice with those.

The biggest thing to remember is to BUY FROM UMI!!!!!
I have UMI 3pt sfc, lca's, adj phb, and bolt in lca relocation from them under my car. They are great quality. I have never had to contact them with any issues. They are very helpful and you will not regret putting their parts on your car.

1BADTALS1

iTrader: (4)

remember it is saturday...most wont be on till monday...

Pro_built7

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the help Guys I understand the process alot more. I know I deff. need an adj. panhard bar.

The roto joint makes sense now that I think about the twisting action of the rear end around corners.

Why do they sell poly non-roto joint lca's if it will bend the brackets?

VIPRETR2

iTrader: (63)

Honestly, for your application, I would get solid lower control arms and an adjustable panhard bar in case you have to center the rear. I've had a set of solid LCAs and PHB on 4 different cars and never had a problem with them (Hotchkis). I just recently switched to adj. UMI pieces on my LS car simply for drag radial tire fitment issues. I still stayed with poly bushings though to keep noise down, which in my opinion is a must for a true street car. Plus with the poly bushings there are no rod ends to wear out. This place usually has the best price and free shipping...

http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...ducts_id=13598

Good luck,

Larry

Lopoetve

iTrader: (1)

I vote watts link instead of the panhard bar

Z28M6TT

me too

.....too bad my wallet doesnt

Pro_built7

iTrader: (9)

Guys, I deffinitely would like to go with the non adj. (lca's) simply because this is a street car. BUT I've been reading that the poly non adjustable lca's can bind and bend the brackets when going around turns because they don't allow for proper flex.

?????

I'm also running 315's with bfg radials.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hello
Sorry about that! I just got back into the office. For you particular set up seeing how it is lowered you are going to need to go with a adjustable pan hard bar to allow you to center the rear underneath the vehicle. And seeing how the vehicle is rarely going to see the track you will be fine with either non adjustable poly bushings or our New Roto Joint. To maintain a great ride quality and they will also perform a lot better than the stockers. And When upgrading to a aftermarket torque arm I would highly suggest looking into a adjustable to allow you to adjust the pinion angle for better fine tuning capabilities and performance. And last but not least I would highly suggest going with a set of Lower control arm relocation brackets to allow you to readjust the lower control arm back to the correct angle. If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help. Below is a few links to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer!

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...0f8c58k5n978i2

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...0f8c58k5n978i2

Thanks Again!
Brad