EW WS6

So the other day I went to start my 1998 trans am and turned the key to start it and the starter started to engage and then heard something pop and now the car will not start. The odometer wont light up and will not display anything. I've checked every fuse in the two fuse boxes under the hood and the one on the side of the dash and they are all good. The headlights, running lights, and illumination lights on the dash work. When the key is on the run position the blower motor works so I think the ignition switch works. Any input from U guys would be appreciated.

eseibel67

iTrader: (10)

Sounds crazy, but try the cig lighter fuse again.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I can tell you this, I believe the 1998's, which is what I have as well....will not start or run if the guage cluster burns out.

I took my cluster out to install a new one and for ***** and giggles started it without a cluster in there.....and it coughed, sputters, backfired, knockes like crazy for about 5 seconds and stalled. Then would not start.

So maybe your cluster just took a ****.

.

intense3123

Did you try jumping the car, sounds like battery

jeepers_88

iTrader: (13)

I was just thinking the same thing, just because the other stuff "works" doesnt mean theres enough to crank the engine, the "pop" sounds like the starter solenoid trying to activate but doesnt have enough power. the winter months like to kill batteries too

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Guys....a dying battery or almost a completely dead battery will still light up the digital display on the cluster and lights in the cluster. Especially if there was enough power left for the starter to at least try to turn.


.

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

if the guy is in Illinois like his sig says, it's cold there, which will further increase the likelihood the battery is the problem. The battery is probably weak to begin with, and because a battery will not discharge as easily when it is cold it may have over 12.0 volts which is enough to light the interior, gauge cluster, and little stuff but the capacity and Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) isn't there and when the starter is engaged the system voltage drops to **** and the gauge cluster and PCM then take a dump as well.

A "good" battery will have 12.6 volts or better at rest at 70F, if it's cold out that number will drop down to 12.5 and 12.4, and when a heavy load is placed on the battery (such as starting the engine) the battery voltage along with voltage in the entire system is not supposed to go below 10.x volts, which is what's happening.... the gauge cluster and PCM can handle the drop in voltage to 11 but if it drops below 10 it goes
get a heavy duty battery charger and put it on boost mode and see if the problem goes away, if so it's the battery.

EW WS6

its not the battery because I had a trickle charger on it in my garage and after this all happened I put a regular charger on it to make sure that the battery was fully charged so im pretty sure the battery is not the problem. I'm thinking that it is eather a fuse that I havnt checked thats not inthe fuse boxes or a shorted wire.

EW WS6

another reason I feel that I blew something is b/c the red odometer and trip display will not display anything anymore... Do you guys know which fuse or wires supply power to this?

Amarshall

Try replacing your gauge fuse. The same thing happened to me today and it wouldn't start without a new one. I wouldn't have thought that would have anything to do with it starting but sure enough I replaced it and the car started right up.

conde'strans

iTrader: (8)

The odometer on mine dissappeared like 4 months ago as well. I checked all the fuses and nothing! Asked around and nothing! And then one day I noticed a wire that goes into the fuse box into the back(opposite side from the fuses) was not in all the way so I just pushed it in some more and VOILA! That was it! Somehow that wire had been kinda pulled back a bit.

LooseMoose

iTrader: (3)

My odometer doesn't work if the power accessory fuse is blown. Also Makes the hatch release not work, but it still runs.