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K member cant get rear arm bolt ball joint bolt out!!!

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Old 01-30-2010, 12:40 PM
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Default K member cant get rear arm bolt ball joint bolt out!!!

Anyone have problems with this bolt seems to be welded on... tried putting the nut back on and hitting it with a 3 lb sledge and the thing doesnt even budge...both sides are the same...i am about to get the cut off wheel out and go to town...

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Old 01-30-2010, 12:44 PM
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Is it moving at all?

The problem that I had when I swapped my K-member out was that the bolt kept hitting the frame when I would try to drive it upwards. Look on the other side and see if it's contacting the frame. You may have to drive it inward, towards the drivers side, and then drive it up and out.

Hope that makes sense.
Old 01-30-2010, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 98RedBird
Is it moving at all?

The problem that I had when I swapped my K-member out was that the bolt kept hitting the frame when I would try to drive it upwards. Look on the other side and see if it's contacting the frame. You may have to drive it inward, towards the drivers side, and then drive it up and out.

Hope that makes sense.
no the damn thing doesnt even budge...that is why i was like what the f&ck...is this a special double studded bolt or is it threaded into the ball joint...all the others came out fine...the k member is about ready to drop out if it wasnt connected...i might pull both a-arms too and place it on the floor and hit the top of the k member with a 10lb hammer...
Old 01-30-2010, 04:26 PM
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Is the A-arm putting it into a bind? You try to move the A-arm while trying to remove?
Old 01-30-2010, 07:32 PM
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I got the cutoff wheel out...the bolt is so rusted in the ball joint it is basically welded in there...I am going to try and heat it up and press it out at work on Monday...otherwise I will just press out the ball joint and get a new one...could be a good reason to get some tubular ones haha...nothing is ever easy
Old 01-30-2010, 09:46 PM
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That is not a ball joint but anyway try some penetrating lube on the top and bottom let it sit for a while then hit it from the bottom with a bfh
Old 02-01-2010, 03:06 PM
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I got the same issue as you man...I'm doin a K and A arm swap right now, and I have the whole old unit on the floor, beat the **** out of it with a 6lb sledge, and it hasn't even flinched a bit...no way those bolts are coming out on mine...did you end up getting yours out or new ones? What kinda bolt can you use to replace these? GM seems to not know, and the diagram they printed out is hard to read...
Old 02-01-2010, 04:05 PM
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Rear bushing bolt. Not ball joint. Cut the bolt with a sawzal.
Old 02-01-2010, 04:48 PM
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yes it is the bushings got in hurry typing...I cut the arms out... was going to try and get new bushings but they are pretty expensive then have to be pressed in...just going to pick up a used set
Old 02-01-2010, 04:59 PM
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best trick that has ever worked for me was to heat up the rusted bolt then pour cold water on it. Get it red hot if you can. Do this 2 or 3 times. Has always worked for me. Only problem in your case is you will prolly melt the bushing. And don't forget to relieve the pressure off the bolt by jacking the lower A arm up level. PB blaster always helps too.

If you try the torch just remember to keep lots of water handy cause if the bushing lights on fire they can be a bitch to put out.
Old 02-01-2010, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by BadBandit69
best trick that has ever worked for me was to heat up the rusted bolt then pour cold water on it. Get it red hot if you can. Do this 2 or 3 times. Has always worked for me. Only problem in your case is you will prolly melt the bushing. And don't forget to relieve the pressure off the bolt by jacking the lower A arm up level. PB blaster always helps too.

If you try the torch just remember to keep lots of water handy cause if the bushing lights on fire they can be a bitch to put out.
good idea i will try it sometime if it happens again...

i went to town with the cutoff wheel...picked up a used set just a few minutes ago...



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