It's now the next step...
#1
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It's now the next step...
I have strano springs, koni 4/4's and lower control arm relocation brackets in the mail... what should be next??? The car is a daily driver in san diego and im looking for some good handling.
thanks anyone!
thanks anyone!
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Sways would be pretty sweet. If you see any track time you might think about some adj LCA's and torque arm.
#7
Hello
Like mentioned above both a adjustable pan hard bar and a set of sway bars will be a great mod. But I would suggest the adjustable pan hard bar to allow you to recenter the rear back under the vehicle due to it shifting when you lowered it and then upgrade to a 35mm and a 22mm rear bar. Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...ecevur71msc3s4
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...ecevur71msc3s4
If you have any other questions feel free to ask!
Thanks
Brad
Like mentioned above both a adjustable pan hard bar and a set of sway bars will be a great mod. But I would suggest the adjustable pan hard bar to allow you to recenter the rear back under the vehicle due to it shifting when you lowered it and then upgrade to a 35mm and a 22mm rear bar. Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...ecevur71msc3s4
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...ecevur71msc3s4
If you have any other questions feel free to ask!
Thanks
Brad
Last edited by UMI Sales; 02-03-2010 at 05:11 PM.
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#10
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I'd do swaybars myself. An adjustable PHB isn't a bad idea, or even better a Watts link. But those things do not change balance, cut roll, or add wheel rate like swaybars.
FWIW, earlier Brad mis-typed he didn't mean (I'm sure) to say a 1.25" front bar and a 22mm rear, that is a smaller bar than what we use. I sell my Hollow bar and UMI's solid bars. I'm sure he meant 1.375" front (which is the 35mm size we both use).
Difference between my bars and UMI are 3 things. My set weighs about 21 pounds less. They are bend differently (went to a new company to get this done) which makes fitment better than the older bars, and we use very different hardware. UMI's cost less for the bars, the shipping is more (heavier). Mine cost a bit more, but the shipping is a bit less--and folks spend way more money on chrome-moly in their LCA's, and SFC's, etc to save way less weight. Basically you spend $70 more for the pair, and save over 20 pounds. That's great bang for your buck.
FWIW, earlier Brad mis-typed he didn't mean (I'm sure) to say a 1.25" front bar and a 22mm rear, that is a smaller bar than what we use. I sell my Hollow bar and UMI's solid bars. I'm sure he meant 1.375" front (which is the 35mm size we both use).
Difference between my bars and UMI are 3 things. My set weighs about 21 pounds less. They are bend differently (went to a new company to get this done) which makes fitment better than the older bars, and we use very different hardware. UMI's cost less for the bars, the shipping is more (heavier). Mine cost a bit more, but the shipping is a bit less--and folks spend way more money on chrome-moly in their LCA's, and SFC's, etc to save way less weight. Basically you spend $70 more for the pair, and save over 20 pounds. That's great bang for your buck.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
#12
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thanks everyone for the input. I was thinking a watts linkage or the PHB/ relocation kit. but would rather do the better improving mods first like the sways or PHB. If I were to have true duals all the way out back, would the sways/ PHB interfere or is there still pretty good clearance?
#13
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I'd do swaybars myself. An adjustable PHB isn't a bad idea, or even better a Watts link. But those things do not change balance, cut roll, or add wheel rate like swaybars.
FWIW, earlier Brad mis-typed he didn't mean (I'm sure) to say a 1.25" front bar and a 22mm rear, that is a smaller bar than what we use. I sell my Hollow bar and UMI's solid bars. I'm sure he meant 1.375" front (which is the 35mm size we both use).
Difference between my bars and UMI are 3 things. My set weighs about 21 pounds less. They are bend differently (went to a new company to get this done) which makes fitment better than the older bars, and we use very different hardware. UMI's cost less for the bars, the shipping is more (heavier). Mine cost a bit more, but the shipping is a bit less--and folks spend way more money on chrome-moly in their LCA's, and SFC's, etc to save way less weight. Basically you spend $70 more for the pair, and save over 20 pounds. That's great bang for your buck.
FWIW, earlier Brad mis-typed he didn't mean (I'm sure) to say a 1.25" front bar and a 22mm rear, that is a smaller bar than what we use. I sell my Hollow bar and UMI's solid bars. I'm sure he meant 1.375" front (which is the 35mm size we both use).
Difference between my bars and UMI are 3 things. My set weighs about 21 pounds less. They are bend differently (went to a new company to get this done) which makes fitment better than the older bars, and we use very different hardware. UMI's cost less for the bars, the shipping is more (heavier). Mine cost a bit more, but the shipping is a bit less--and folks spend way more money on chrome-moly in their LCA's, and SFC's, etc to save way less weight. Basically you spend $70 more for the pair, and save over 20 pounds. That's great bang for your buck.
I see you offer an adjustable rear sway bar. What would you recommend for a daily driver car? I want good handling!
#16
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1. You have a lower rear roll center which is the result of running a Watts link in a low setting or have lowered the Panhard bar. The adjustable bars allow you to stiffen the rear roll stiffness to get the balance back when the car tightens up from the RC drop.
1. You do a lot of drag racing and the car leaves hard enough that it wants to make a move to the right. Stiffening the rear bar helps counter that, but because the bar is adjustable you aren't stuck with too stiff a rear bar on the street and don't compromise handling like a drag bar would.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!