What suspension pieces should I add?
02-06-2010, 11:36 PM
#1
What suspension pieces should I add? Car is 98Z. Still running stock 10 bolt. Car is an A4. Will be putting in a 383 soon. I have UMI tubular LCA, UMI panhard bar, and will be putting on the UMI Subframes soon also. What suspension pieces do you guys recommend I add next? I was thinking maybe a Torque Arm would be next. I will have Kooks Long Tubes on the motor and I'm already running TSP True Duals. If the Torque Arm is a good idea then which one? I don't have a clue. Especially when it comes to adjustable vs non-adjustable. This car is 90% street driven but will see some track time. Basically a weekend warrior. Oh yeh I'm running Torq Thrust M wheels 17x10.5 in the back with 315x35x17 tires. I will be putting on MT Drag Radials once the new motor goes in. Thanks.
02-06-2010, 11:47 PM
#2
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always get adjustable, it's better to have and not need than need it and not have it...
i have the PHBs and LCAs as well, my next move it going to be the SFCs and Tq arm, at once
i have the PHBs and LCAs as well, my next move it going to be the SFCs and Tq arm, at once
02-08-2010, 07:14 AM
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I couldn't tell a difference in hooking until i added the QA1's and the UMI tunnel mount TA. When i installed them and read up on some adjustment settings the car went to exploding from a dig. It was unbelieveable
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02-08-2010, 09:27 AM
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Car is 98Z. Still running stock 10 bolt. Car is an A4. Will be putting in a 383 soon. I have UMI tubular LCA, UMI panhard bar, and will be putting on the UMI Subframes soon also. What suspension pieces do you guys recommend I add next? I was thinking maybe a Torque Arm would be next. I will have Kooks Long Tubes on the motor and I'm already running TSP True Duals. If the Torque Arm is a good idea then which one? I don't have a clue. Especially when it comes to adjustable vs non-adjustable. This car is 90% street driven but will see some track time. Basically a weekend warrior. Oh yeh I'm running Torq Thrust M wheels 17x10.5 in the back with 315x35x17 tires. I will be putting on MT Drag Radials once the new motor goes in. Thanks.
A stock torque arm with a 383 on drag radials will be pushing it if the car hooks well. A stock arm is only stamped steel and will flex and distort or possibly even worse fail under heavy hp loads.
I would recommend a full length style arm with a torque arm relocation bracket to take the load off of the transmission tail housing. This setup will have no clearance issues with any exhaust choices.
The torque arm can be found HERE
The torque arm relocation bracket can be found HERE
For shocks we offer the Strange,QA1, and Afco products. All of which are good companies and we are W/d for.
I personally like the Strange shocks as they are the best value per dollar out of the three. The Afco units I usually only recommend for the die hard,high horsepower group of racers that are willing to pay a little extra for the shocks and require them to get the car down the track.
The listing for the Strange shocks can be found HERE
Please ask any questions you might have
02-08-2010, 12:59 PM
#9
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Orange are stock DeCarbons. Since your car is 90% street driven and you're already planning on SFC's, I'd say good shocks would probably make a bigger difference than any other ride/handling mod you will make. If you're keeping the stock springs (which are decent) the Bilstein HD's or SLP Bilstein's are good. If you're going to lower it, alot of folks like the Koni single adjustable shocks.
02-09-2010, 01:19 AM
#11
Like you mentioned a torque arm would probably be a wise next choice. A good set of shocks would run a close second choice IMO.
A stock torque arm with a 383 on drag radials will be pushing it if the car hooks well. A stock arm is only stamped steel and will flex and distort or possibly even worse fail under heavy hp loads.
I would recommend a full length style arm with a torque arm relocation bracket to take the load off of the transmission tail housing. This setup will have no clearance issues with any exhaust choices.
The torque arm can be found HERE
The torque arm relocation bracket can be found HERE
For shocks we offer the Strange,QA1, and Afco products. All of which are good companies and we are W/d for.
I personally like the Strange shocks as they are the best value per dollar out of the three. The Afco units I usually only recommend for the die hard,high horsepower group of racers that are willing to pay a little extra for the shocks and require them to get the car down the track.
The listing for the Strange shocks can be found HERE
Please ask any questions you might have
A stock torque arm with a 383 on drag radials will be pushing it if the car hooks well. A stock arm is only stamped steel and will flex and distort or possibly even worse fail under heavy hp loads.
I would recommend a full length style arm with a torque arm relocation bracket to take the load off of the transmission tail housing. This setup will have no clearance issues with any exhaust choices.
The torque arm can be found HERE
The torque arm relocation bracket can be found HERE
For shocks we offer the Strange,QA1, and Afco products. All of which are good companies and we are W/d for.
I personally like the Strange shocks as they are the best value per dollar out of the three. The Afco units I usually only recommend for the die hard,high horsepower group of racers that are willing to pay a little extra for the shocks and require them to get the car down the track.
The listing for the Strange shocks can be found HERE
Please ask any questions you might have
Last edited by 98LS1auto; 02-09-2010 at 01:25 AM.
02-09-2010, 01:24 AM
#12
Orange are stock DeCarbons. Since your car is 90% street driven and you're already planning on SFC's, I'd say good shocks would probably make a bigger difference than any other ride/handling mod you will make. If you're keeping the stock springs (which are decent) the Bilstein HD's or SLP Bilstein's are good. If you're going to lower it, alot of folks like the Koni single adjustable shocks.
02-09-2010, 07:04 AM
#14
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the issue with the moser rears is the WAY the TA bolts to the diff housing. the Strange rear has stock style thru-bolts. they are much more secure i beleive.
"Since I went to the 17' wheels and tires there is just a little more room between the tire well and the tire than I would like.
get the correct wheel and you will have the same amount of room. rim size doesn't matter...its the tire size that makes the differnce.
"Since I went to the 17' wheels and tires there is just a little more room between the tire well and the tire than I would like.
get the correct wheel and you will have the same amount of room. rim size doesn't matter...its the tire size that makes the differnce.
02-09-2010, 07:37 AM
#15
While I'm still running the 10 bolt now I will upgrade it to a 12 bolt sometime. Probably next year I plan to put a ProCharger on the car also. So alot more power will be made by the car. From what I read on your site the TQ arm and relocation bracket are not warranted with a Moser 12 bolt. Any other options I may have if I run the Moser which is what I will upgrade to eventually. Oh and should I get adjustable or non-adjustable? Thanks.
Seeing how you are going to be getting a aftermarket rear end. I would highly suggest looking into a set of single adjustable control arms and pan hard bar. The moser rears mounting locations are offset and will put a poly bushing in a bind. So therefore going with a single adjustable will get you the articulation you need so the rear isn't in a bind. And seeing how you are running true duels. I would suggest going with a full length adjustable arm and a relocation cross member. This combo will still allow the car to be solid but also take away any chances of breaking the tail shaft and maintain adjustment for the pinion angle. Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer!
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...elupojf5r5fsg4
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...elupojf5r5fsg4
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...elupojf5r5fsg4
If you have any other questions feel free to ask!
Thanks
Brad
02-09-2010, 01:21 PM
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While I'm still running the 10 bolt now I will upgrade it to a 12 bolt sometime. Probably next year I plan to put a ProCharger on the car also. So alot more power will be made by the car. From what I read on your site the TQ arm and relocation bracket are not warranted with a Moser 12 bolt. Any other options I may have if I run the Moser which is what I will upgrade to eventually. Oh and should I get adjustable or non-adjustable? Thanks.
The issue is with Moser using 4-bolts to retain the torque arm versus 2 through bolts like the factory housing does. If the bolts are properly tightened and remain tight you will have no issues with the torque arm failing .
Another option is a Strange 12-bolt. Pricing for either Strange or Moser is about the same and the Strange unit uses the factory style mounting hardware so bolts loosening is not an issue.
As for adjustable or non-adjustable most people opt for adjustable when dealing with an aftermarket rear end housing. I tend to recommend when to use it on a case to case basis as everyone application is different.
I am W/D with both Moser and Strange and can help out with either option.
If you have any other questions please ask
02-09-2010, 07:51 PM
#18
the issue with the moser rears is the WAY the TA bolts to the diff housing. the Strange rear has stock style thru-bolts. they are much more secure i beleive.
"Since I went to the 17' wheels and tires there is just a little more room between the tire well and the tire than I would like.
get the correct wheel and you will have the same amount of room. rim size doesn't matter...its the tire size that makes the differnce.
"Since I went to the 17' wheels and tires there is just a little more room between the tire well and the tire than I would like.
get the correct wheel and you will have the same amount of room. rim size doesn't matter...its the tire size that makes the differnce.
02-09-2010, 09:22 PM
#19
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275/40/17s are stock diameter...leave them...or replace them with the same size just different tire.
Nitto nt555 street tires are great tires, and not too pricey
Nitto nt555 street tires are great tires, and not too pricey