KTK Z28

iTrader: (6)

Hello everyone. I have been searching the boards for the past few weeks and am desperately trying to hone in on a rear suspension set up. However, it seems as if most of the posts containing information regarding rear suspension setups are for applications that really don't pertain to me. With this in mind i would like ANY and all opinions for a rear suspension setup that will work with my application and with what i would like to. (likely would want to start small with LCA, PHB, and relocation brackets). So far here is what is done to the car as well as the goals for the vehicle...

Vehicle is a 2000 Z28 M6, currently only running an SLP Lid, Loudmouth II, Ground Control Coil Overs, and Bilstein SLP shocks. Everything else is stock. My plans are long tubes, catted Y, and a Cam later on down the road. I do not have plans for a power adder or extra cubes. Basically i'm aiming for somewhere around 400WHP give or take some... so not a particularly high horsepower goal, fairly mild compared to most of the cars on this site.

Now for what I want to do with the car. The car will be street driven, and will see SOME passes at the strip. I am more concerned with straight line performance as opposed to road racing and have very little to no concern regarding ride quality.

WIth all this taken into account where should i start as far as LCA's and a panhard bar? I realize that because the car is lowered it is wise to go with an adjustable set up, but there are sooo many options available. Double adjustable, rod end, roto joint, poly, etc. All the options available make my head want to spin!

Thanks in advance everyone for any help. It is much appreciated!

bigj2717

iTrader: (15)

If the car is a track car then you want the dbl adj rod ends. For
a street car you would want a poly/rod adj or the new rotojoint are supposed to be really nice pieces too. The dbl adj just gives you more room for adjustment and more fine tuning

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Hello,

Thanks for supplying us that information.

Based on what you have supplied I would recommend polyurethane bushings for your application. Non-adjustable control arms will be just fine, I see no need for anything else there. I do recommend the adjustable panhard bar since the car is lowered and relocation brackets are always a great idea for increased traction. The relocation brackets are also a great idea for you since the vehicle is lowered, it will help to place the control arms back in the stock location. The polyurethane bushings are greaseable and very street friendly, they will not offer any additional noise or any type of a rough ride.

Below I posted links to the items I would recommend.

Control Arms- www.umiperformance.com/2015

Panhard Bar- www.umiperformance.com/2029

Relocation Brackets- www.umiperformance.com/2012

If I can help anymore please ask and I am glad too. Thank you!

Ryan

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Wait, non-adjustable control arms are alright, even for a lowered fbody? What's the advantage of going adjustable?

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Hello, Lowering an F-Body will not effect the rear in movement of front to back, only side to side which is adjusted with the panhard bar.

Depending on what lower control arm you look at there is different types of benefits. We recommend adjustable control arms if you are installing an aftermarket rear end. Most aftermarket rear ends do not sit centered in the wheel wells and adjustable control arms are used to center the rear end. This is very common with Moser brand rear ends. Also 28" tall and taller tires usually require the rear end to be tweaked back or forth slightly for clearance and to prevent them from rubbing. Other benefits are, if the control arms have rod ends the rod ends prevent bind and allow the suspension to articulate. However for a street car the rod ends may increase noise and reduce road quality.

Does that answer your question?

Thanks!
Ryan

bigj2717

iTrader: (15)

The advantage is being able to move the axle forward and backwards so you can center the wheels I'm the wheelwell so a taller tire can fit properly

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Alright, yeah, that helps. I'm not going to be changing rear ends, so might as well save on the LCA's, right? BTW, how tall would a 17-18" wheel be?

Sorry OP....didn't mean to thread jack!

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Yes non-adj. LCA's would be just fine and 17-18" wheels are not tall enough to need adjustable LCA's unless there is a super high tire on there..

InsaneAuto86

iTrader: (60)

You dont need LCA's until you change rears. Save your $ there. Get an adj dual rod end PHB, LCA relocation brackets, and SFC to start.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Thanks a lot guys! Now it's just between poly/poly or poly/roto for the extra $$$$ for my LCA's. Already thinking poly/roto adjustable PHB and RB's.

Thanks again!

KTK Z28

iTrader: (6)

Thank you everybody for the input, that was a great help UMI.

Just one more question, i see that purchasing new hardware is an option. With my application would it be wise to go ahead and use new hardware as well or is it a moot point for my app.? Thanks again everyone

bigj2717

iTrader: (15)

Its never a bad idea to buy the hardware if you can though the stock bolts are fine its nice to have the grade 8 hardware for insurance

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Yes exactly, it all depends whether you think your bolts will come out easily and be reuse-able.

Hope that helps!
Ryan

KTK Z28

iTrader: (6)

Sorry... just one more quick question just out of curiosity.

I understand that the roto joint set ups are geared more closely to road racing but would these hurt straight line performance... especially with my application being relatively low power? Reason being is the two birds one stone mantra, if its going to obviously help handling without sacrificing straight line traction i definitely would not mind spending the extra coin.

Sorry for all the questions! Thanks again everyone!

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

No, these will actually perform well during straight line traction as well. Since the Roto-Joint features a delrin race the delrin will not deflect like rubber and deflect less than polyurethane. They are an excellent all around bushing

KTK Z28

iTrader: (6)

Good to know.

Now as far as the pan hard rod should i run the roto joints on BOTH ends or is the combination roto/poly a better option?

Thank you very much UMI and LS1Tech members! I will definitely help stimulate the economy through UMI performance!

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Great to hear! They both hold up very well....The roto joints maintain a great ride quality and hold up better than the poly bushings as long as they are properly maintained (greased). What it comes down to is the personal preference on what they buyer wants. If you have any other questions feel free to ask!
Thanks
Brad

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Like Brad had mentioned since the Roto-Joint is very street friendly item so a lot of times it is user preference. My personal recommendation would be a poly/Roto set-up. Its less expensive and would work well for your application, Roto/Roto might be overkill for your set-up.

Hope that helps!
Ryan