NXL Impressions....
12-25-2003, 10:50 PM
#1
NXL Impressions.... NXL...What a pain in the *** that thing is lol...I think it's nice and should be very efficiant when sprayed..But here is the problem I was having...Aftermarket injectors don't like the NXL rails lol...Only because the damn O-ring's are a little too big..So I absolutly had to use stock O-ring's..and the entrance for the injectors arent chamfered like the stock ones so I slit up like 4 O ring's just trying to slip the damn injectors in the rails...But other than that the NXL is very nice and worth the money I guess...Deffinatly better than Nozzels from NOS. Hope these damn injectors dont leak..They dont really feel all that snug in the NX rail..I will post back up after start up..Later,
Carter
Carter
12-25-2003, 11:30 PM
#2
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Yeah, I had some tears of sweat when installing myself. Then after two bottles, the fuel solenoids quit, luckily it was on a run 
but didnt hurt the engine. Sent them in, fixed free, I only paid shipping. Now it is waiting me to get a new fuel line. Messed the quick release clip up removing so much.
I do however, you can use after market o-rings. I use o-rings from Lowes/Home Depot, they are 9/16odx5/16id @ 1/8" thick. Work like a charm and cheap.
It did work fine when it was on though and look forward to using it again.
but didnt hurt the engine. Sent them in, fixed free, I only paid shipping. Now it is waiting me to get a new fuel line. Messed the quick release clip up removing so much. I do however, you can use after market o-rings. I use o-rings from Lowes/Home Depot, they are 9/16odx5/16id @ 1/8" thick. Work like a charm and cheap.
It did work fine when it was on though and look forward to using it again.
12-26-2003, 12:06 PM
#3
Originally Posted by CAT3
Yeah, I had some tears of sweat when installing myself. Then after two bottles, the fuel solenoids quit, luckily it was on a run but didnt hurt the engine. Sent them in, fixed free, I only paid shipping. Now it is waiting me to get a new fuel line. Messed the quick release clip up removing so much.
I do however, you can use after market o-rings. I use o-rings from Lowes/Home Depot, they are 9/16odx5/16id @ 1/8" thick. Work like a charm and cheap.
It did work fine when it was on though and look forward to using it again.
but didnt hurt the engine. Sent them in, fixed free, I only paid shipping. Now it is waiting me to get a new fuel line. Messed the quick release clip up removing so much. I do however, you can use after market o-rings. I use o-rings from Lowes/Home Depot, they are 9/16odx5/16id @ 1/8" thick. Work like a charm and cheap.
It did work fine when it was on though and look forward to using it again.
Cool info man...Might go pick up some new o-rings and see how they fit..Thank's!
Carter
12-26-2003, 12:20 PM
#4
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I could probably deal with any bad thing with the NXL over the NOS NOSZLE. I can not stand the design of the NOSZLE system..... dispite the somewhat relations of the two systems.
I want a NOS Pro Shot fogger system myself.
Josh S.
I want a NOS Pro Shot fogger system myself.
Josh S.
12-26-2003, 12:21 PM
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Hey put some oil on the orings before you try and slip them in and start from the angled side and work it in. If you dont use oil or angle the injector you will tear them for sure.
Someone posted install tips a while ago. Search for it it had a lot of good info.
Someone posted install tips a while ago. Search for it it had a lot of good info.
12-26-2003, 04:32 PM
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i did a cut and past for ya....here are the tips previously posted...
For those of you who will be getting an NXL kit sometime in the near future I figured I would help you out with a few pointers and info I learned while doing the install on my car.
First of all Leave the intake on the car, the directions show the intake off of the car but one you put the rails on you can't put the intake bolts in because they are in the way.
Second, when it comes time to put your injectors in the NXL Fuel rails grease the o-rings up with some wheel bearing grease or motor oil (NX recommends WD-40)
Another thing about putting the injectors in the NX fuel rails, an ice pick with a bend on the end will be VERY usefull, I cut up quite a few of my o-rings before I figured this trick out just get one side of the o-ring/injector in and work the rest of it in using the ice pick (or flat head screwdriver if you are carefull)
Once you have the fuel rails in place and are ready to connect all of the lines start from the back and work your way to the front on each side, connecting the fuel lines to the rails and getting them tight first then do the nitrous lines. (with the nitrous lines connected to the rail it is somewhat difficult to get to the fuel fittings on the rail to tighten them)
When connecting the lines to the nossles if you unbolt the coil packs and push them away from the intake (not disconecting the plug wires) it really gives a lot more room to work with to tighten the fittings.
The wiring harnes has the solenoids and the relay connecting to the same o-fitting so they have a common ground, if you plan on running a window switch you will need to cut the white wire from the relay and run that to the yellow wire on the window switch (applies to MSD switch) the black wire with a white trace (ground for solenoids) needs to have its own ground. If you try to connect them both to the yellow wire you might have problems with the solenoids not staying open.
Another thing to keep in mind is make SURE you have everything VERY clean and put a new fuel filter on the car as well. The jetting for the fuel side is only a # 10 jet which is extremely small and any little bit of trash in the fuel system could get caught in one of the jets if you are not carefull.
Once you have everything connected turn the key on and check for leaks, if there aren't any leaks go ahead and start it up and drive around a little then check for leaks again just to be on the safe side.
To check the solenoids arm the system (without the bottle hooked up) and either you or a buddy hit the WOT switch to see if the solenoids "click". Usually you can feel them but with all of them being built into the rails it is hard to make sure they are all opening so I used a screwdriver and touched the tops of the solenoids to make sure they were all "magnatized" when the WOT switch was on and not when the kit was off.
When checking the solenoids for functionality go ahead and pull the fuse for the fuel pump under the hood so you dont dump fuel into the motor while you are checking them. If there is any fuel left in the lines it will send it straight into the motor and flood it.
If you do for some reason flood the motor let it sit for awhile and try to start it again. You also might want to change the oil if you flooded it too bad.
Ill post up more as it comes to me.
--------------------
Maximus
01' Formula
Heads/cam M6
Tank
96' Z71
LS1 Hauler
hope this helped ya
For those of you who will be getting an NXL kit sometime in the near future I figured I would help you out with a few pointers and info I learned while doing the install on my car.
First of all Leave the intake on the car, the directions show the intake off of the car but one you put the rails on you can't put the intake bolts in because they are in the way.
Second, when it comes time to put your injectors in the NXL Fuel rails grease the o-rings up with some wheel bearing grease or motor oil (NX recommends WD-40)
Another thing about putting the injectors in the NX fuel rails, an ice pick with a bend on the end will be VERY usefull, I cut up quite a few of my o-rings before I figured this trick out just get one side of the o-ring/injector in and work the rest of it in using the ice pick (or flat head screwdriver if you are carefull)
Once you have the fuel rails in place and are ready to connect all of the lines start from the back and work your way to the front on each side, connecting the fuel lines to the rails and getting them tight first then do the nitrous lines. (with the nitrous lines connected to the rail it is somewhat difficult to get to the fuel fittings on the rail to tighten them)
When connecting the lines to the nossles if you unbolt the coil packs and push them away from the intake (not disconecting the plug wires) it really gives a lot more room to work with to tighten the fittings.
The wiring harnes has the solenoids and the relay connecting to the same o-fitting so they have a common ground, if you plan on running a window switch you will need to cut the white wire from the relay and run that to the yellow wire on the window switch (applies to MSD switch) the black wire with a white trace (ground for solenoids) needs to have its own ground. If you try to connect them both to the yellow wire you might have problems with the solenoids not staying open.
Another thing to keep in mind is make SURE you have everything VERY clean and put a new fuel filter on the car as well. The jetting for the fuel side is only a # 10 jet which is extremely small and any little bit of trash in the fuel system could get caught in one of the jets if you are not carefull.
Once you have everything connected turn the key on and check for leaks, if there aren't any leaks go ahead and start it up and drive around a little then check for leaks again just to be on the safe side.
To check the solenoids arm the system (without the bottle hooked up) and either you or a buddy hit the WOT switch to see if the solenoids "click". Usually you can feel them but with all of them being built into the rails it is hard to make sure they are all opening so I used a screwdriver and touched the tops of the solenoids to make sure they were all "magnatized" when the WOT switch was on and not when the kit was off.
When checking the solenoids for functionality go ahead and pull the fuse for the fuel pump under the hood so you dont dump fuel into the motor while you are checking them. If there is any fuel left in the lines it will send it straight into the motor and flood it.
If you do for some reason flood the motor let it sit for awhile and try to start it again. You also might want to change the oil if you flooded it too bad.
Ill post up more as it comes to me.
--------------------
Maximus
01' Formula
Heads/cam M6
Tank
96' Z71
LS1 Hauler
hope this helped ya
12-26-2003, 10:08 PM
#7
Hehe thank's,
I lubed the **** out of the rail housing and the o-ring's..but still had a little trouble...The Siemens 38lb injectors o-ring's DID NOT fit no matter what...I got one in there and it took about 25 minutes for that one...then once it went in the damn o-ring was wrinkled and twisted up lol...But the stock LS1 injector o-rings worked fine.
Carter
I lubed the **** out of the rail housing and the o-ring's..but still had a little trouble...The Siemens 38lb injectors o-ring's DID NOT fit no matter what...I got one in there and it took about 25 minutes for that one...then once it went in the damn o-ring was wrinkled and twisted up lol...But the stock LS1 injector o-rings worked fine.
Carter
