Top bolt(s) on bellhousing removed easily
02-20-2010, 08:51 AM
#1
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Top bolt(s) on bellhousing removed easily Take an old computer hard drive apart and get the thin powerful magnets out of there. Bust a chip off one with a hammer thats about the size of your drive extention tip.
Toss it in the deep socket on a long extention to where it lay flat in the bottom of the socket. Now connect another long extension. Go in from inside the car down through the hole where the shifter comes inside the console (assuming the console and shifter are now removed of course).
On top of the bellhousing there are grooves around the entrance to each bolt for socket clearance. Just lay your socket down on top the bellhousingand start sliding it towards the front of the car if your in the groove, you will hear and feel a "CLACK" as the socket jumps on the bolt head. It will hold itself on there. you can then attach ratchet or breaker bar or torque wrench sticking up inside the car between the seats where you got plenty of room for leverage. No swivel sockets necessary. This is prime for aluminum bellhousing and aluminum block cause if you get anywhere near the bolt it WILL so easilly jump right on there as its the only thing nearby thats magnetic metal.
As a bonus it even holds your bolt for you as you draw your tool back out.
I have changed my clutch. I have minimal tools, no lift, or shop. I tryed to get to these bolts to no avail for a whole day. It wore me out. Once I thought of this, I had em in my hand in 5 minutes.
Toss it in the deep socket on a long extention to where it lay flat in the bottom of the socket. Now connect another long extension. Go in from inside the car down through the hole where the shifter comes inside the console (assuming the console and shifter are now removed of course).
On top of the bellhousing there are grooves around the entrance to each bolt for socket clearance. Just lay your socket down on top the bellhousingand start sliding it towards the front of the car if your in the groove, you will hear and feel a "CLACK" as the socket jumps on the bolt head. It will hold itself on there. you can then attach ratchet or breaker bar or torque wrench sticking up inside the car between the seats where you got plenty of room for leverage. No swivel sockets necessary. This is prime for aluminum bellhousing and aluminum block cause if you get anywhere near the bolt it WILL so easilly jump right on there as its the only thing nearby thats magnetic metal.
As a bonus it even holds your bolt for you as you draw your tool back out.
I have changed my clutch. I have minimal tools, no lift, or shop. I tryed to get to these bolts to no avail for a whole day. It wore me out. Once I thought of this, I had em in my hand in 5 minutes.
02-20-2010, 09:45 AM
#2
Do you have solid motor mounts? I had no problem getting to mine with a ratchet, after my transmission was removed. I even have poly mounts, which allows the motor to tip even less.
02-20-2010, 11:33 AM
#3
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I had the same problem Poly motor mounts. The engine and trans hardly tip over at all once the trans crosmember is removed. Thinking about puting a jack under the front of the motor when going back up with tht bellhousing to make it a little easier.
10-10-2010, 08:05 PM
#5
Take an old computer hard drive apart and get the thin powerful magnets out of there. Bust a chip off one with a hammer thats about the size of your drive extention tip.
Toss it in the deep socket on a long extention to where it lay flat in the bottom of the socket. Now connect another long extension. Go in from inside the car down through the hole where the shifter comes inside the console (assuming the console and shifter are now removed of course).
On top of the bellhousing there are grooves around the entrance to each bolt for socket clearance. Just lay your socket down on top the bellhousingand start sliding it towards the front of the car if your in the groove, you will hear and feel a "CLACK" as the socket jumps on the bolt head. It will hold itself on there. you can then attach ratchet or breaker bar or torque wrench sticking up inside the car between the seats where you got plenty of room for leverage. No swivel sockets necessary. This is prime for aluminum bellhousing and aluminum block cause if you get anywhere near the bolt it WILL so easilly jump right on there as its the only thing nearby thats magnetic metal.
As a bonus it even holds your bolt for you as you draw your tool back out.
I have changed my clutch. I have minimal tools, no lift, or shop. I tryed to get to these bolts to no avail for a whole day. It wore me out. Once I thought of this, I had em in my hand in 5 minutes.
Toss it in the deep socket on a long extention to where it lay flat in the bottom of the socket. Now connect another long extension. Go in from inside the car down through the hole where the shifter comes inside the console (assuming the console and shifter are now removed of course).
On top of the bellhousing there are grooves around the entrance to each bolt for socket clearance. Just lay your socket down on top the bellhousingand start sliding it towards the front of the car if your in the groove, you will hear and feel a "CLACK" as the socket jumps on the bolt head. It will hold itself on there. you can then attach ratchet or breaker bar or torque wrench sticking up inside the car between the seats where you got plenty of room for leverage. No swivel sockets necessary. This is prime for aluminum bellhousing and aluminum block cause if you get anywhere near the bolt it WILL so easilly jump right on there as its the only thing nearby thats magnetic metal.
As a bonus it even holds your bolt for you as you draw your tool back out.
I have changed my clutch. I have minimal tools, no lift, or shop. I tryed to get to these bolts to no avail for a whole day. It wore me out. Once I thought of this, I had em in my hand in 5 minutes.
