People who have covered their plastic interior with leather...
02-21-2010, 11:12 PM
#1
People who have covered their plastic interior with leather... I just purchased a Specialized Stainless leather kit for covering the interior. I want to see everyone else's interior that has already done this. The only pics I am able to find are the ones of Steve's Camaro that he first used this on. I'd like to see other peoples interiors and how hard they thought it was. I have never done anything like this.
02-22-2010, 05:02 PM
#3
I can post some pics of a few panels I wrapped on thursday ....wont get to my home pc until then . I used ebony endurex vinyl used in the 2007-10 Tahoes .
Do yourself a big favor before you add the adhesive on the panels that have tricky contours , mess around with the panel your about to wrap before . Just to see where the best place is to start . Alot times its better( and sometimes the only way) to start laying the vinyl/leather down in the contour and stretching out of it onto the flat areas as opposed to starting on the flat surfaces and then getting to more complex contours and getting tripped up because the material bunches up . Also a tip with leather , if the stuff your getting is real leather . It stretches well one way and not so much the other as opposed to vinyl that stretches well in all directions . see which way your hide stretches best so your can situate it on the panel to lay best .
Most important , just take your time . Its not hard stuff to do , its just a little meticulous . If u 1/2 *** cleaning beforehand or not letting the glue set up right it can come up over time . Especially like I said , set up how your gonna wrap around bends before u put the glue down because once u get 1/2 way thru a panel laying the material down and get to a contour your unable to get around your not really gonna beable to pull the material back off and start over without destroying the material , youll never get the glue off the back of it . A heat gun is also a good thing to have around in the harder contours . Just use a low setting and aim it far enuff away to not scorch the material . You dont have to get the material thaaat hot to make it more pliable .
Do yourself a big favor before you add the adhesive on the panels that have tricky contours , mess around with the panel your about to wrap before . Just to see where the best place is to start . Alot times its better( and sometimes the only way) to start laying the vinyl/leather down in the contour and stretching out of it onto the flat areas as opposed to starting on the flat surfaces and then getting to more complex contours and getting tripped up because the material bunches up . Also a tip with leather , if the stuff your getting is real leather . It stretches well one way and not so much the other as opposed to vinyl that stretches well in all directions . see which way your hide stretches best so your can situate it on the panel to lay best .
Most important , just take your time . Its not hard stuff to do , its just a little meticulous . If u 1/2 *** cleaning beforehand or not letting the glue set up right it can come up over time . Especially like I said , set up how your gonna wrap around bends before u put the glue down because once u get 1/2 way thru a panel laying the material down and get to a contour your unable to get around your not really gonna beable to pull the material back off and start over without destroying the material , youll never get the glue off the back of it . A heat gun is also a good thing to have around in the harder contours . Just use a low setting and aim it far enuff away to not scorch the material . You dont have to get the material thaaat hot to make it more pliable .
02-22-2010, 08:37 PM
#4
Ill also add ive never did interior plastic but ive done a few sub/sterio set ups with vinyl and been to the fabric store many times. There's many different types of vinyl you can use,,, some thinner and some thicker and less easy to work with...also some vinyl will stretch one way and some both ways... and some more then others. You may find 2 of the same pattern and color and one is more thick for the strait pieces and the other thinner and able to bend in the smaller more detailed parts.
one question i never wrap plastic only wood, so i use staples... what is the best glue to use on plastic and vinyl or leather,, would contact cement work? ive used spray glue and its ok but sometimes leaves splatter patterns behind showing thru on thinner materials.
one question i never wrap plastic only wood, so i use staples... what is the best glue to use on plastic and vinyl or leather,, would contact cement work? ive used spray glue and its ok but sometimes leaves splatter patterns behind showing thru on thinner materials.
02-23-2010, 08:33 PM
#5
TECH Fanatic
I'm using fastbond 30 3M glue, it is watery thinn and color is blue. Apply on both surface and wait for a coupple of hours. This glue is really good you will have a rubbery surface and once you have put pressure on your both surfaces they are sticked together.
I you are not satisfied with something you just take the two pieces apart with some force but you need to apply new glue and wait for the glue to dry.
I you are not satisfied with something you just take the two pieces apart with some force but you need to apply new glue and wait for the glue to dry.
02-23-2010, 09:05 PM
#6
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I'm going to say it will be quite hard depending on what you are wrapping. If it is door panels and the rear panels, you should be good to go. However, I wouldn't approach the a-pillar with the Specialized Stainless vinyl. It is a single direction stretch material and it will never look quite right in the intricate areas. If it is on broad and smooth parts, it should actually be easy. If you start going tricky, like the a pillars, TTop plastic, center console, do yourself a favor and go with a better material for the vinyl. You will need one that can stretch. Just ask the guy above me here. He has a TON of good experience with great results. Done with all-directional vinyl/leather.
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02-24-2010, 02:23 PM
#15
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The Master at work. Viking is the reason I have vinyl on its way, and the reason I know to avoid single direction stretching materials.
If THIS THREAD helps you guys one tenth as much as it helped me, you will be very pleased!!! I considered having mine professionally done and had a couple shops tell me they couldn't do it, so I started taking pictures from Viking's car with me and even the shops were amazed with some of his work!
The Dash however, I won't do yet. It is a decent material, and if I spray-match it to the color of the wrap, I should be happy...for a while.
If THIS THREAD helps you guys one tenth as much as it helped me, you will be very pleased!!! I considered having mine professionally done and had a couple shops tell me they couldn't do it, so I started taking pictures from Viking's car with me and even the shops were amazed with some of his work!
The Dash however, I won't do yet. It is a decent material, and if I spray-match it to the color of the wrap, I should be happy...for a while.
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Joker Gordon (03-07-2024)
02-24-2010, 03:58 PM
#17
Is there anyway to roll the vinyl inside of the cup holder on the dash you think? someway to maybe roll it in so that its usable.. that would rock!
What did you do about the cup holders in the rear?
EDIT:
how the hell do you get the plastics off the T-Top Area? Ive tried like hell and cant figure it out.
What did you do about the cup holders in the rear?
EDIT:
how the hell do you get the plastics off the T-Top Area? Ive tried like hell and cant figure it out.
