mammoth713

Hi, the parts i plan to install over a weekend in spring include:

*Strano Springs
*Koni 4/3 Shocks
*UMI Shock Tower Brace
*UMI Single Adjustable Poly Panhard Bar
*Crossdrilled Brake rotors
*Hawk HPS pads
*SLP Intake Lid
*ws6store short shifter rod
*SLP Bowtie Grill

i will need a jack, jack stands, torque wrench, and spring compressor (going to barrow all from a friend) (i know i will need an alignment after all of it either way...)

i was originally going to hire someone to put all these parts on.. but looking at it i guess i could do them with the help of my friend.. would you guys suggest i try doing these by myself or hiring someone? especially for the front shocks/springs...

i have installed my catback SLP LM1 and replaced the drivers side window motor, other than that i havent worked on the car

when you loosen the master cylinder to get at the driver side shock bolts, would i worry about fluid leaking out? or is it just bolted to the brake booster to hold the master cylinder..?

thanks

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

ls1howto has some good stuff on the spring/shock install

it's all pretty easy, just take your time

Joshiedoom

iTrader: (4)

No fluid will leak out. The master cylinder is sealed and only attached to the booster by two bolts. I suggest some PB blaster and soak ALL of that crap down before you start wrenching on the suspension. As for getting the panhard bar in alignment to close to stock(before a shop aligns it), I would get two bolts that are snug in the holes of the panhard bar and align it up with the old one by laying it on top of the stocker.

Josh18Fan

iTrader: (2)

There shouldn't be any fluid leaking out. The master cylinder/brake booster connection is dry.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

No brake fluid should leak out, but what you'll want to do is remove the two black plastic brake line separators (going to the ABS module) and loosen the two nuts that secure the ABS module in it's mount. Then your going to need to pull back, and slightly up on the master cylinder until you clear the cowl plastic. let the master cylinder sit there on the cowl plastic. FYI you will end-up slightly bending the brake lines usually right above where the line go into the ABS module. After your done and put the MS back in place check the two lines where they go into the ABS module for any slight leak, and snug the fitting/s if needed (I've only had to do this once). I've done it this way probably 10 times without any problems.

BTW, pull the front pads and rotors before removing the front shock/spring assembly. Be prepared to replace the upper mount if it's severely rusted.

After your done with the front suspension and brakes the do the rear shocks, springs, and bleed the rear brakes if you haven't done it in awhile. Then do the PHB, and finally go back and bleed the front brakes, if needed. Now you can do the really easy stuff last.

Have fun, and don't get in a hurry.

mammoth713

i know i need a spring compressor to remove the stock front springs...

do i need to use it to install the strano ones on the konis? cuz they are shorter...

Joshiedoom

iTrader: (4)

Yes sir

99zee

iTrader: (4)

Looks like my list You can do it all, just take your time. I did my shifter last year, very easy. I haven't done my brakes yet, but did a buddies pads/rotors, piece of cake. The only problem I see is the top nuts on the fronts. Just be prepared to cut them off and replace whats needed. Some guys have not had a problem, but most have. I have springs sitting here just waiting on shocks and the rest of the suspension pieces. Good luck and please post pictures and any problems you have. Honestly, I'm not looking forward to the fronts but I will be prepared

mammoth713

yeah thats what worries me. my car wasnt taken care of the best from its previous owner.. when i put on the LM1 catback it was such a pain in the *** we just sawzalled the old exhaust off in 2 sections and then spent an hour trying to get the y pipe to let go of the old catback... everything was rusted solid... but it took all of 15 min to put the new one on


so with these shocks, i have read the front ones can be a PITA... and i dont know if i have the experience to deal with it..

what if i do need the new top of the front shocks if they are wicked rusty (which they very well will be most likely, car is in storage so i cant look at it till april).. where do i buy the OEM replacement parts?

i guess thats the daunting part of me considering to do it myself...

fucter

iTrader: (5)

do it all yourself

but, just in case, can you get a ride into work on Monday, not trying to jinx you, just have a backup plan

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Look!
http://centralfloridastreetcars.com/...frontshock.JPG
Front shock parts:
Order the two pieces on the bottom right of photo.

As a preventive measure I would go ahead and buy new upper mounts, and the dogbone pieces that fit in the upper mounts under the nuts on the shock shaft, and lube it all up with some super grease (poly bushing grease).

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Search TheBlueKnight's thread on here about the koni install, he made a very helpful video

mammoth713

i will have the whole week off. and if i end up working i have another car i could take if need be.

but yeah i was going to hire someone to do the install of the suspension/brakes cuz he had a good lift and was cheap $/HR but i dont think he can do alignments.. so its kind of like.. hmm i should just install it myself if i have to get the alignment either way..

OK SO I HAVE SOME QUESTIONS

1) btw if i center the rear myself with the PHB.. does a shop have to mess with adjusting the PHB any further?

2) where can i safely support the body with jackstands/jacks? does anyone have a photo or diagram so i know?
(previous owner seemed to jack up the car in the wrong spot and bent part of the body, can only see it under the car.. on the side of the rocker pannel)

3) what order would be the wisest of doing the suspension/brakes (i'm new to this so i need basically every step, even simple ones so i dont over look them)?

from reading online and ls1tech threads, i have gathered this is how i would do it... please feel free to mod my list to find a better way

i would guess 1 tire at a time would make the most sense so lets say i start with the rear ones:

REAR:
*get in back hatch, undo child seat latches over carpet
*pull up carpet to access foam covering
*remove top shock bolt
*barely break free the lugs on the rim
*jack up the car until the shock is no longer compressed
*fully loosen lugs and take off rim
*undo the bottom shock bolt
*old shock should slide out
*old spring should also be free
*put in new strano spring
*put in new koni 3rd gen shock
*tighten bottom shock bolt to axle
*tighten upper shock bolt
(BRAKES NEXT)
*take off brake caliper piston
*take off old brake pads
*take off brake "knuckle?"
*be sure to not let brake lines be stressed
*take off rotor ...might need hammer cuz of rust
*put on new rotor
*put on brake "knuckle"
*put in new brake pads
*lube outer brake pad a little on the back of it to prevent squealing?
*lube "slider bolts"
*use C clamp and old brake pad to push in brake piston
*reattach caliper
*check that the rotor freely rotates
*put rim back on
*tighten lugs in star pattern enough to hold the rim on
*lower the car barely to the ground
*fully tighten all lug nuts in star pattern
*fully lower the car

(ONCE BOTH REARS ARE DONE)

*dont need to jack up the car since i'm kinda small and could probably fit under the back of the car... if i cant fit, i put jack stands under the axle right?
*remove Panhard bar bolts and old PHB
*put in new PHB
*measure and adjust until center

FRONT:
*losen 2 master cylinder bolts to get at the 2 top screws
*loosen the top screws to the shock assembly
*break loose rim lugs
*jack up car
*fully take off lugs and rim
*take out cotter pin holding "spindle arm" and undo bolt
*support the bottom of the rotor w/ a small box or something
*remove the two bottom shock bolts
*remove the whole old shock/spring assembly
*put a spring compressor on the spring and compress the spring by alternating between tightening either side untill no pressure on top rusted screw
*ATTEMPT to undo top shock screw..
*in the event (most likely will happen) that the screw is rusted solid, sawzall the shock shaft?
*try beating the nut off from the other side with the shock removed and only the shaft hanging out
*decompress the old spring and remove it
*compress the new strano spring
*place it on the KONI 4th gen shock on the higher perch
*tighten down the upper shock bolt
*decompress the strano spring
*place new shock/spring assembly on lower A arm
*attach 2 lower shock screws/bolts to lower a arm
*attach upper A arm up thru engine bay and tighten bolts 4 bolts down
*reattach spindle arm bolt and cotter pin
*retighten the 2 master cylinder bolts
(BRAKES NEXT)
*take off brake caliper piston
*take off old brake pads
*take off brake "knuckle?"
*be sure to not let brake lines be stressed
*take off rotor ...might need hammer cuz of rust
*put on new rotor
*put on brake "knuckle"
*put in new brake pads
*lube outer brake pad a little on the back of it to prevent squealing?
*lube "slider bolts"
*use C clamp and old brake pad to push in brake piston
*reattach caliper
*check that the rotor freely rotates
*put rim back on
*tighten lugs in star pattern enough to hold the rim on
*lower the car barely to the ground
*fully tighten all lug nuts in star pattern
*fully lower the car

(ONCE BOTH FRONT ARE DONE)

*undo 2 of upper A arm bolts
*place UMI tower brace over bolts
*tighten the 4 bolts down on it

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Up front remove the sway bar end-links, and pull the brake pads and rotors off before removing the shock/spring assembly since your going to be replacing them. Removing the rotors and pads will make it easier to work with the shock/spring assembly.
In the rear fully loosen the end-links.

With the PHB adjust it 1/4" shorter the the stock phb to cut down on on the amount of times you need to adjust it.

IMO, do the front first.

mammoth713

yeah i figured just take 1/2" off the PHB to start with..


ok so.....



FRONT:
*losen 2 master cylinder bolts to get at the 2 top screws
*loosen the top screws to the shock assembly
*break loose rim lugs
*jack up car
*fully take off lugs and rim
(START BRAKES)
*take off brake caliper piston
*take off old brake pads
*take off brake "knuckle?"
*be sure to not let brake lines be stressed
*take off rotor ...might need hammer cuz of rust
(CONTINUE SUSPENSION)
*remove sway bar link (if needed)
*take out cotter pin holding "spindle arm" and undo bolt
*support the bottom of the lower A Arm w/ a small box or something
*remove the two bottom shock bolts
*remove the whole old shock/spring assembly
*put a spring compressor on the spring and compress the spring by alternating between tightening either side untill no pressure on top rusted screw
*ATTEMPT to undo top shock screw..
*in the event (most likely will happen) that the screw is rusted solid, sawzall the shock shaft?
*try beating the nut off from the other side with the shock removed and only the shaft hanging out
*decompress the old spring and remove it
*compress the new strano spring
*place it on the KONI 4th gen shock on the higher perch
*tighten down the upper shock bolt
*decompress the strano spring
*place new shock/spring assembly on lower A arm
*attach 2 lower shock screws/bolts to lower a arm
*attach upper A arm up thru engine bay and tighten bolts 4 bolts down
*reattach spindle arm bolt and cotter pin
*reattach sway bar link
*retighten the 2 master cylinder bolts
(CONTINUE BRAKES)
*put on new rotor
*put on brake "knuckle"
*put in new brake pads
*lube outer brake pad a little on the back of it to prevent squealing?
*lube "slider bolts"
*use C clamp and old brake pad to push in brake piston
*reattach caliper
*check that the rotor freely rotates
*put rim back on
*tighten lugs in star pattern enough to hold the rim on
*lower the car barely to the ground
*fully tighten all lug nuts in star pattern
*fully lower the car

(ONCE BOTH FRONT ARE DONE)

*undo 2 of upper A arm bolts
*place UMI tower brace over bolts
*tighten the 4 bolts down on it

REAR:
*get in back hatch, undo child seat latches over carpet
*pull up carpet to access foam covering
*remove top shock bolt
*barely break free the lugs on the rim
*jack up the car until the shock is no longer compressed
*fully loosen lugs and take off rim
*undo the bottom shock bolt
*old shock should slide out
*old spring should also be free
*put in new strano spring
*put in new koni 3rd gen shock
*tighten bottom shock bolt to axle
*tighten upper shock bolt
(BRAKES NEXT)
*take off brake caliper piston
*take off old brake pads
*take off brake "knuckle?"
*be sure to not let brake lines be stressed
*take off rotor ...might need hammer cuz of rust
*put on new rotor
*put on brake "knuckle"
*put in new brake pads
*lube outer brake pad a little on the back of it to prevent squealing?
*lube "slider bolts"
*use C clamp and old brake pad to push in brake piston
*reattach caliper
*check that the rotor freely rotates
*put rim back on
*tighten lugs in star pattern enough to hold the rim on
*lower the car barely to the ground
*fully tighten all lug nuts in star pattern
*fully lower the car

(ONCE BOTH REARS ARE DONE)

*dont need to jack up the car since i'm kinda small and could probably fit under the back of the car... if i cant fit, i put jack stands under the axle right?
*remove Panhard bar bolts and old PHB
*put in new PHB set approx 1/2" shorter than stock to start with
*measure and adjust until center

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

FYI, removing the front sway-bar end links really makes removing the shock/spring assembly a lot easier!
And if you have a set of ramps(Rhino Ramps, etc...) back the car up on them and do the PHB it's also a lot easier that way!

joecar

Some diagrams that may help...

mammoth713

yeah thats a good idea! i did that to put on the LM1 and worked great


um but im a bit uneasy about the front shock assembly going ok...

like as a last resort could i just sawzall the old shock shaft? and then try and beat the shaft free from the A arm from teh backside?

because i'm going with new shocks...

mammoth713

yes that does! thanks...

1redta

I had to air cheisel the nuts off the front shock they were so rusted be prepared to have fun with that.