Installing LT's, ORY, Catback, and poly mounts.... any advise?
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Sunshine State
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Installing LT's, ORY, Catback, and poly mounts.... any advise?
OK I'm about to install my TSP LT headers, ory, and magnaflow catback and would like some advise. I will also be installing poly motor and tranny mounts at the same time. I wont be welding the exhaust and will be using the clamps that was sent with them, I read somewhere I should put red high temp rtv sealant on the slip fit ends.... has any one tried this before? Any tips, tricks, first hand advise is appreciated. Thanks.
#2
On The Tree
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Houston,Tx
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
first off....air tools and pb blaster are your friend
as for everything else i would usually recommend unbolting your driver side motor mount so you can get that header in but since your putting new motor mounts on you already got it covered. this would also b a good time to go ahead and change your spark plugs 1 bc they're easier to reach and 2 bc having them out while putting the headers on helps out.
that's all i can think of rightn now....good luck
as for everything else i would usually recommend unbolting your driver side motor mount so you can get that header in but since your putting new motor mounts on you already got it covered. this would also b a good time to go ahead and change your spark plugs 1 bc they're easier to reach and 2 bc having them out while putting the headers on helps out.
that's all i can think of rightn now....good luck
#3
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: San Diego
Posts: 625
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ht=motor+mount
edit: since the majority of your time will be spent doing this.
edit: since the majority of your time will be spent doing this.
#4
Launching!
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Walterboro SC
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Never did motor mounts but I've done the header and catback deal (no air tools either ) and it can be discouraging. After fooling with trying to get the manifolds out from under the car for a hour or so I just saws-alled all the stock crap out the way. Also had to cut lil tab off the block ont he driveside as well as dent the floor board a tad (HATED doing this but I was so pissed).
Biggest thing, get that sucker high as you can get them. I had to put my jack under a concrete block to get it jacked up high enough, and I probably could have avoided the floor board denting if I got it higher but I didnt feel safe with it as high as it was already. I took the starter out too, only takes a sec and frees up some room.
Biggest thing, get that sucker high as you can get them. I had to put my jack under a concrete block to get it jacked up high enough, and I probably could have avoided the floor board denting if I got it higher but I didnt feel safe with it as high as it was already. I took the starter out too, only takes a sec and frees up some room.
#5
On The Tree
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Houston,Tx
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Never did motor mounts but I've done the header and catback deal (no air tools either ) and it can be discouraging. After fooling with trying to get the manifolds out from under the car for a hour or so I just saws-alled all the stock crap out the way. Also had to cut lil tab off the block ont he driveside as well as dent the floor board a tad (HATED doing this but I was so pissed).
Biggest thing, get that sucker high as you can get them. I had to put my jack under a concrete block to get it jacked up high enough, and I probably could have avoided the floor board denting if I got it higher but I didnt feel safe with it as high as it was already. I took the starter out too, only takes a sec and frees up some room.
Biggest thing, get that sucker high as you can get them. I had to put my jack under a concrete block to get it jacked up high enough, and I probably could have avoided the floor board denting if I got it higher but I didnt feel safe with it as high as it was already. I took the starter out too, only takes a sec and frees up some room.
+1 on the getting the car as high as you can, and of course secure everything with jack stands, etc.....
#6
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Denver
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I installed the exact same headers. Everyones advice is great. For those exact headers I just grinded down some of the K-member and some of the casting on the block and the header needs to be straight up and down and push it up. I would think about welding it also instead of those clamps.. I had no luck with the y-pipe clamps and they would hit about every bump I went over... maybe Im just that bad and my car is to low, I dont know but after I welded it I have had no complaints. Good Luck!
#7
Never did motor mounts but I've done the header and catback deal (no air tools either ) and it can be discouraging. After fooling with trying to get the manifolds out from under the car for a hour or so I just saws-alled all the stock crap out the way. Also had to cut lil tab off the block ont he driveside as well as dent the floor board a tad (HATED doing this but I was so pissed).
Biggest thing, get that sucker high as you can get them. I had to put my jack under a concrete block to get it jacked up high enough, and I probably could have avoided the floor board denting if I got it higher but I didnt feel safe with it as high as it was already. I took the starter out too, only takes a sec and frees up some room.
Biggest thing, get that sucker high as you can get them. I had to put my jack under a concrete block to get it jacked up high enough, and I probably could have avoided the floor board denting if I got it higher but I didnt feel safe with it as high as it was already. I took the starter out too, only takes a sec and frees up some room.
i just finished installing poly mounts headers and tps y pipe a month ago. on the y pipe don't try to fit it over the metal plate that goes across the drive-shaft tunnel (has 4 bolts)the stock y-pipe fits over but just leave it out.,.... motor mount are hell but after your done you will know how to remove and install the belts,starter,alternator, ac compressor, and pulleys. took me about 2 full days for the mounts..and a extra day for headers.
headers are the easiest thing to do after poly mounts! i put a bead of high temp copper rvt silicone to also help to let the joints move around when adjusting the y-pipe. i had to grind down a bit of the inside of y-pipe tubes were they connected to my pacesetter headers to make them easier to slide on.
also i bought band clamps all around took 6 clamps
Last edited by -98-Z28-Darkness-; 02-28-2010 at 01:09 AM.
Trending Topics
#8
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Sunshine State
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok, I know I am going to regret this later but I didnt get a chance to do the motor mounts now because I need the car for work so i just started on the header install. I cant get the drivers side in, I banged the firewall a bit, grinded the k-member, and grinded the square piece that sticks out from the block.... still no luck. and I had the car up high with 5 ton jack stands. How do I remove the steering shaft, and is it easy or a pita? thanks
#10
11 Second Club
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: CLARENCE, NY
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok, I know I am going to regret this later but I didnt get a chance to do the motor mounts now because I need the car for work so i just started on the header install. I cant get the drivers side in, I banged the firewall a bit, grinded the k-member, and grinded the square piece that sticks out from the block.... still no luck. and I had the car up high with 5 ton jack stands. How do I remove the steering shaft, and is it easy or a pita? thanks
is locked in a position that you can get to both bolts and keep it there.
Remove both bolts then lift out bottom end and slip off the top.
You may have to spread the connections a little with a flat head.
The shaft will slide in and out of the upper portion for removal and intall.
Should take 10 minutes if you can get to the top bolt without a crane. lol
#11
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Denver
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I didn't remove the shaft. I just stacked some boards... nail them together of course.. on top of the jack and jack it up on the k member. The collector should be basically perpendicular to the ground and it goes in. provided all of the spark plugs are out..
#14
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Sunshine State
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok, thanks, ill try to remove the steering shaft today. And yeah, the coils and plugs are removed and i bought new plugs. And I think im going to just weld the y-pipe together also. thanks, LS1 tech FTW!
#15
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
I know they're not exactly cheap, but band clamps are the way to go.
PM me if you'd like to know where I picked mine up.
#16
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Sunshine State
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
With much effort and more grinding of the k member and more "control" taps on the fire wall with the steering shaft removed we finally got the driver's side in and bolted up. And pm'd you Mumbles. Thanks every one for all the help.
#19
11 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
Does anyone have a pic of how they are installing the drivers side. I almost feel like this is a big april fools joke on me
I notched the kmember, removed alt+mount - jacked up motor (also, broke the alternator wire, i guess the dealer will stock connectors?), removed oil filter, and it still wont go in.
I have enough room to stand the header straight up, but it hits the kmember and the oil filter bulge.
I need more tips/advice.
(seriously thinking about just tossing all the parts in the trunk and selling the car as non-running)
I notched the kmember, removed alt+mount - jacked up motor (also, broke the alternator wire, i guess the dealer will stock connectors?), removed oil filter, and it still wont go in.
I have enough room to stand the header straight up, but it hits the kmember and the oil filter bulge.
I need more tips/advice.
(seriously thinking about just tossing all the parts in the trunk and selling the car as non-running)