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Installing LT's, ORY, Catback, and poly mounts.... any advise?

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Old 02-27-2010, 10:35 AM
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Default Installing LT's, ORY, Catback, and poly mounts.... any advise?

OK I'm about to install my TSP LT headers, ory, and magnaflow catback and would like some advise. I will also be installing poly motor and tranny mounts at the same time. I wont be welding the exhaust and will be using the clamps that was sent with them, I read somewhere I should put red high temp rtv sealant on the slip fit ends.... has any one tried this before? Any tips, tricks, first hand advise is appreciated. Thanks.
Old 02-27-2010, 11:29 AM
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first off....air tools and pb blaster are your friend

as for everything else i would usually recommend unbolting your driver side motor mount so you can get that header in but since your putting new motor mounts on you already got it covered. this would also b a good time to go ahead and change your spark plugs 1 bc they're easier to reach and 2 bc having them out while putting the headers on helps out.

that's all i can think of rightn now....good luck
Old 02-27-2010, 11:37 AM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ht=motor+mount

edit: since the majority of your time will be spent doing this.
Old 02-27-2010, 11:43 AM
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Never did motor mounts but I've done the header and catback deal (no air tools either ) and it can be discouraging. After fooling with trying to get the manifolds out from under the car for a hour or so I just saws-alled all the stock crap out the way. Also had to cut lil tab off the block ont he driveside as well as dent the floor board a tad (HATED doing this but I was so pissed).
Biggest thing, get that sucker high as you can get them. I had to put my jack under a concrete block to get it jacked up high enough, and I probably could have avoided the floor board denting if I got it higher but I didnt feel safe with it as high as it was already. I took the starter out too, only takes a sec and frees up some room.
Old 02-27-2010, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by VeTTeMaNC486
Never did motor mounts but I've done the header and catback deal (no air tools either ) and it can be discouraging. After fooling with trying to get the manifolds out from under the car for a hour or so I just saws-alled all the stock crap out the way. Also had to cut lil tab off the block ont he driveside as well as dent the floor board a tad (HATED doing this but I was so pissed).
Biggest thing, get that sucker high as you can get them. I had to put my jack under a concrete block to get it jacked up high enough, and I probably could have avoided the floor board denting if I got it higher but I didnt feel safe with it as high as it was already. I took the starter out too, only takes a sec and frees up some room.

+1 on the getting the car as high as you can, and of course secure everything with jack stands, etc.....
Old 02-27-2010, 11:30 PM
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I installed the exact same headers. Everyones advice is great. For those exact headers I just grinded down some of the K-member and some of the casting on the block and the header needs to be straight up and down and push it up. I would think about welding it also instead of those clamps.. I had no luck with the y-pipe clamps and they would hit about every bump I went over... maybe Im just that bad and my car is to low, I dont know but after I welded it I have had no complaints. Good Luck!
Old 02-28-2010, 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by VeTTeMaNC486
Never did motor mounts but I've done the header and catback deal (no air tools either ) and it can be discouraging. After fooling with trying to get the manifolds out from under the car for a hour or so I just saws-alled all the stock crap out the way. Also had to cut lil tab off the block ont he driveside as well as dent the floor board a tad (HATED doing this but I was so pissed).
Biggest thing, get that sucker high as you can get them. I had to put my jack under a concrete block to get it jacked up high enough, and I probably could have avoided the floor board denting if I got it higher but I didnt feel safe with it as high as it was already. I took the starter out too, only takes a sec and frees up some room.
i was hitting the same tab and block on the driver side.. instead grinding it down i just took the 2 bolts on the steering shaft and removed it went in with room to spare

i just finished installing poly mounts headers and tps y pipe a month ago. on the y pipe don't try to fit it over the metal plate that goes across the drive-shaft tunnel (has 4 bolts)the stock y-pipe fits over but just leave it out.,.... motor mount are hell but after your done you will know how to remove and install the belts,starter,alternator, ac compressor, and pulleys. took me about 2 full days for the mounts..and a extra day for headers.
headers are the easiest thing to do after poly mounts! i put a bead of high temp copper rvt silicone to also help to let the joints move around when adjusting the y-pipe. i had to grind down a bit of the inside of y-pipe tubes were they connected to my pacesetter headers to make them easier to slide on.

also i bought band clamps all around took 6 clamps


Last edited by -98-Z28-Darkness-; 02-28-2010 at 01:09 AM.
Old 03-01-2010, 11:33 AM
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ok, I know I am going to regret this later but I didnt get a chance to do the motor mounts now because I need the car for work so i just started on the header install. I cant get the drivers side in, I banged the firewall a bit, grinded the k-member, and grinded the square piece that sticks out from the block.... still no luck. and I had the car up high with 5 ton jack stands. How do I remove the steering shaft, and is it easy or a pita? thanks
Old 03-01-2010, 11:45 AM
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I think its one bolt on the steering shaft 15 mm, putting my tsp headers on the driver side had to removed coil packs two spark plugs and steering shaft. mine fit fine with poly mounts.
Old 03-01-2010, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by D.Jones
ok, I know I am going to regret this later but I didnt get a chance to do the motor mounts now because I need the car for work so i just started on the header install. I cant get the drivers side in, I banged the firewall a bit, grinded the k-member, and grinded the square piece that sticks out from the block.... still no luck. and I had the car up high with 5 ton jack stands. How do I remove the steering shaft, and is it easy or a pita? thanks
Thats the first thing I would have did. Just make sure the steering wheel
is locked in a position that you can get to both bolts and keep it there.
Remove both bolts then lift out bottom end and slip off the top.
You may have to spread the connections a little with a flat head.
The shaft will slide in and out of the upper portion for removal and intall.
Should take 10 minutes if you can get to the top bolt without a crane. lol
Old 03-01-2010, 12:35 PM
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I didn't remove the shaft. I just stacked some boards... nail them together of course.. on top of the jack and jack it up on the k member. The collector should be basically perpendicular to the ground and it goes in. provided all of the spark plugs are out..
Old 03-01-2010, 12:43 PM
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If you put the rear tires on ramps and the fronts on jackstands it is much easier. I have never had any luck with clamps, weld together imo.
Old 03-01-2010, 12:44 PM
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+1 on changing the plugs and wires.
Old 03-01-2010, 01:51 PM
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ok, thanks, ill try to remove the steering shaft today. And yeah, the coils and plugs are removed and i bought new plugs. And I think im going to just weld the y-pipe together also. thanks, LS1 tech FTW!
Old 03-01-2010, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by D.Jones
ok, thanks, ill try to remove the steering shaft today. And yeah, the coils and plugs are removed and i bought new plugs. And I think im going to just weld the y-pipe together also. thanks, LS1 tech FTW!
Welding does a pretty good job on insuring against leaks, but should you decide you need to take the exhaust apart (for example: Installing Motor Mounts), its going to be much less difficult if you had used band clamps.

I know they're not exactly cheap, but band clamps are the way to go.

PM me if you'd like to know where I picked mine up.
Old 03-02-2010, 07:03 AM
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With much effort and more grinding of the k member and more "control" taps on the fire wall with the steering shaft removed we finally got the driver's side in and bolted up. And pm'd you Mumbles. Thanks every one for all the help.
Old 03-25-2010, 05:38 PM
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TAKE OUT MOTOR MOUNT AND PEDELSTAL...........the drivers side will slip right in........no fuss........no muss
Old 04-03-2010, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by -98-Z28-Darkness-
you know that y-pipe assembly is placed together wrong, that's how i tried it first
Old 04-03-2010, 07:50 PM
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Does anyone have a pic of how they are installing the drivers side. I almost feel like this is a big april fools joke on me

I notched the kmember, removed alt+mount - jacked up motor (also, broke the alternator wire, i guess the dealer will stock connectors?), removed oil filter, and it still wont go in.
I have enough room to stand the header straight up, but it hits the kmember and the oil filter bulge.

I need more tips/advice.

(seriously thinking about just tossing all the parts in the trunk and selling the car as non-running)
Old 04-04-2010, 12:33 AM
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remove motor M....AND pedestal........jack up engine......make sure car is HIGH UP......should be a breeze



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