Batt relocation guys. Any issues on current with longer wires??
03-01-2010, 07:59 PM
#1
Batt relocation guys. Any issues on current with longer wires?? Getting ready to get the burkhart setup but want to make sure there are no adverse effects on the batt/charging system with the longer travel of the wires. My main concern would be on the fuel pump voltage. Already a factory issue do not need it worse with a batt relocate kit. Just wanting to know if there are any electrical negatives to doing this before I order one up. Also, what is the prefered batt to use in the back? Thanks.
03-02-2010, 06:24 AM
#2
I can tell you what I did... I have a racetronix setup in my car. I took the red wire that ran to the ALT, and attached it to the shutoff switch... so that way it's getting power right from the shutoff switch, rather then running the wire all the way to the front of the car.
The substantial shortening of this wire, should have decreased the voltage drop a good bit, and being that it's hooked up essentially right to the battery, there shouldn't ever really be any issues with the voltage the pump sees.
I do plan to ditch the factory tank, and just run a 2 gallon in the nose, once I do that I'll have to put an A1000 pump on for the EFI being that the factory stuff will be gone, nitrous will get it's own pump as well.
Hope this helps.
The substantial shortening of this wire, should have decreased the voltage drop a good bit, and being that it's hooked up essentially right to the battery, there shouldn't ever really be any issues with the voltage the pump sees.
I do plan to ditch the factory tank, and just run a 2 gallon in the nose, once I do that I'll have to put an A1000 pump on for the EFI being that the factory stuff will be gone, nitrous will get it's own pump as well.
Hope this helps.
03-02-2010, 12:38 PM
#5
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when i had my battery in the trunk it would start fine when it was cold, but when it got up to operating temp. it wouldnt start at all. thats all the problems i had. needless to say my batt is back up front now lol
03-02-2010, 01:20 PM
#7
The racetronix hotwire, what it does is when you turn the key and power the fuel pump it takes the wires that run to the fuel pump, and hook them to a relay, and then the relay hooks power up to the pump via a larger ga. wire that runs strait from the back of the ALT.
If the batt's in the trunk you can just hook the wire up to the shutoff switch, that way when you kill pwr to the car you will kill the fuel pump too.
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03-02-2010, 06:40 PM
#9
When we do them we use 1/0 or 0 gauge wire to the front of the car. 4 gauge from the altinator to the cutoff switch and a 0 gauge ground from battery to the rear frame rail and add a 4 gauge ground from the motor to the frame. Never had a problem with voltages.
For a fuel pump in the stock location just feed it from the cutoff switch and use the existing pump wire to control the relay.Pretty simple.
For a fuel pump in the stock location just feed it from the cutoff switch and use the existing pump wire to control the relay.Pretty simple.
03-02-2010, 07:33 PM
#10
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Our kit has 1/0 for the bat run and the ground. Most issues are from a poor ground source.
If we did one at the shop we would weld a lug to the cage or another solid ground point and use that.
I had mine grpounded to the rear seatbelt lug for a bit and never had issues. Now it's on the cage. Chuck is a picky fu#$ about that
If we did one at the shop we would weld a lug to the cage or another solid ground point and use that.
I had mine grpounded to the rear seatbelt lug for a bit and never had issues. Now it's on the cage. Chuck is a picky fu#$ about that
