Generation IV Internal Engine - 6.0 lq4 in a 1998 SS camaro

Ok, so I know there are lots of threads about putting an lq4 or lq9 into an f-body, but I still haven't found one that answers all my questions.

I have heard that a 99-00 lq4 block will NOT bolt up to a t-56, is this correct?

Do you just use the ls1 wiring harness and ecu?

I have heard the 99-00 have iron heads, are they still 317's? Any downfall to them being iron?

Thanks..

- not sure about the t-56
- yes, just reuse your ls1 wiring harness
- 317's are aluminum, so no. Iron (fe) is heavier, not as smooth, so I would just find a cheap set of used heads on here. You can get a set of used 317's for ~$200

also, aluminum heads dissipate heat faster/better

A T-56 should bolt up, I mean why wouldn't it? There's a lot of guys running 6speeds and iron blocks.

Maybe someone smart will let you know for sure though :lol:.

A T-56 should bolt up, I mean why wouldn't it? There's a lot of guys running 6speeds and iron blocks.

Maybe someone smart will let you know for sure though :lol:.

I was told that a 99-00 lq4 has a bigger crank end so it gets in the way of bolting up the tranny.

I thought it was just a spacer that needed removed. I've got an '02 block, so mine should bolt right up, I believe. And yes, you just use the LS1 wiring harness. Not sure on the heads.

I was told that a 99-00 lq4 has a bigger crank end so it gets in the way of bolting up the tranny.

Ok, I know what your talking about now. Yeah the 99-00 or whatever has a long crank end or something. I just ended up putting a stock LS1 crank in my 6.0L instead of worrying about it.

With the longer end on the crank I don't think it will bolt up. Here's a thread I found you might be able to find a little more info. Depends on if the end is machined or has a spacer.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1237043-lq4-lq9-will-fit.html

How hard is it to swap cranks? lol, I have never done any internal motor work but I have done pretty much everything on the outside.. so this is pretty new to me..

How hard is it to swap cranks? lol, I have never done any internal motor work but I have done pretty much everything on the outside.. so this is pretty new to me..

It's not too bad. Is it already together or what? Also, is the end of the crank machined or does it have the spacer?

On my LQ4 two of the alternator mounting points were not there. For one, the boss was on the block but had to be drilled and tapped. For the other, there was no boss and it would have had to go into the water jacket, so I was not able to use that bolt. The two bolts in the front and one on the side is plenty IMO.

It's not too bad. Is it already together or what? Also, is the end of the crank machined or does it have the spacer?

Yea its a longblock and It doesn't have the spacer, its a 00 block.

Yea its a longblock and It doesn't have the spacer, its a 00 block.

Yeah I'd just get a stock LS1 crank and be done with it. Just pop the main caps off and rod caps and drop a crank in it. Might as well put some ARP rod bolts and ARP mains in it while it's apart.

Lingenfelter sells an electronic plug and play module to convert 58x reluctor signal to 24xfor around 250 bucks. Search it out this way you wont have to drop the crank. Some guys compain that when they get hot they go screwy so keep that in mind if you go that route to isolate it from heat as best you can and maybe wrap the sucker with good high heat reflective insl

Lingenfelter sells an electronic plug and play module to convert 58x reluctor signal to 24xfor around 250 bucks. Search it out this way you wont have to drop the crank. Some guys compain that when they get hot they go screwy so keep that in mind if you go that route to isolate it from heat as best you can and maybe wrap the sucker with good high heat reflective insl

I thought the reason the t56 wouldn't bolt up is because the crank was physically too big?

Lingenfelter sells an electronic plug and play module to convert 58x reluctor signal to 24xfor around 250 bucks. Search it out this way you wont have to drop the crank. Some guys compain that when they get hot they go screwy so keep that in mind if you go that route to isolate it from heat as best you can and maybe wrap the sucker with good high heat reflective insl

I think your talking about an LS2? He has an iron block 99-00'. The crank end is bigger (which in his case) is a machined on spacer.