Big tire decision to make - Unbiased/candid opinions needed inside!
03-04-2010, 11:20 AM
#1
Big tire decision to make - Unbiased/candid opinions needed inside! Ok guys, it's that time of the build. Some specs are in my sig, but I'll give you a quick breakdown and tell you why I'm having a tough time deciding on a front/rear tire combo.
-In addition to what is listed in my sig, will be going with a QA1/Madman/other appropriate shock/spring combo for the front.
-Car will be 3500 lbs race weight if not a little less.
-Should be about 500 RWHP.
-Car will be driven 20 miles each way to the track for the first season, plus some street time.
-Engine combo is setup to need a 6500+ RPM launch w/ the 6-speed.
-Going with the Billet Specialties 15x4 15x10 combo.
-28" tall tire
REAR SUSPENSION:
-UMI Chrome Moly Tq arm w/ relocation crossmember
-UMI Chrome Moly Rod-ended D/A LCAs w/ relocation brackets
-UMI Chrome Moly SFCs
-UMI Chrome Moly D/A Rod-ended PHB
-Wolfe Solid rear swaybar
-Comp Engineering 3-way Adj rear shocks & stock springs
I have the suspension pieces to dial this in right, and a track that is OK on prep. I KNOW I'd be best with a slick, but I'll be driving to and from the track and don't have room to put them in the car with it being a convertible. I don't think MT makes the "Sportsman" for the fronts anymore either.
Did I leave info out? I just don't know what that right tire combo is...will a MT Radial hold up out back? ET Street?? If so, what tire up front?
-In addition to what is listed in my sig, will be going with a QA1/Madman/other appropriate shock/spring combo for the front.
-Car will be 3500 lbs race weight if not a little less.
-Should be about 500 RWHP.
-Car will be driven 20 miles each way to the track for the first season, plus some street time.
-Engine combo is setup to need a 6500+ RPM launch w/ the 6-speed.
-Going with the Billet Specialties 15x4 15x10 combo.
-28" tall tire
REAR SUSPENSION:
-UMI Chrome Moly Tq arm w/ relocation crossmember
-UMI Chrome Moly Rod-ended D/A LCAs w/ relocation brackets
-UMI Chrome Moly SFCs
-UMI Chrome Moly D/A Rod-ended PHB
-Wolfe Solid rear swaybar
-Comp Engineering 3-way Adj rear shocks & stock springs
I have the suspension pieces to dial this in right, and a track that is OK on prep. I KNOW I'd be best with a slick, but I'll be driving to and from the track and don't have room to put them in the car with it being a convertible. I don't think MT makes the "Sportsman" for the fronts anymore either.
Did I leave info out? I just don't know what that right tire combo is...will a MT Radial hold up out back? ET Street?? If so, what tire up front?
Last edited by 94Z28rag; 03-05-2010 at 11:40 AM. Reason: rear suspenion info added
03-04-2010, 11:35 AM
#2
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Most radials aren't good with a 6 speed combo as it shocks the tires. I haven't had any experience on a manual combo to tell you what to use, just reporting on what I've seen and heard at the track.
Derek
Derek
03-04-2010, 11:57 AM
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Talk with TICK (the guys who are doing your 6speed). I believe they have a 6 speed car on drag radials that works really well. Seen it several times with the wheels up.
03-04-2010, 10:56 PM
#5
After fighting with traction issues most of last season, it's now clear that I need to spend the $$ on rear shocks. Go with some double adjustables to control the axle movement at launch. Also, a stiff sidewall slick will also help control the axle movement. Stick cars require ALOT different suspension tuning.....
Mike
Mike
03-05-2010, 07:10 AM
#6
WIth an Iron Block LT1 being 3500 or less will be hard and like said the DR w/ shocking the tire is a BIG issue with M6 Cars.
The M/T DR is a great tire but here is the issue with ANY DR or Bias Ply is driving it on the street takes life/stickiness out of it, not to mention road hazards and the heat cycles will further harden the tire. You need the grip and driving it on the street will be a big detraction.
IMO suck it up, put a set of street tires on it and swap at the track or trailer. Put them in a thick lawn bag and you can lay them anywhere in the back. I toss the rears in the rear seat area and fronts in the hatch as they are skinnies.
For your target weight, this car should be GUTTED. If not, then I do not know how your getting to that #.
****
As for my exp on Slicks Vs DR on M6's is that the slick is the best choice. The ONLY DR worked with the M/T and thats with a proper burnout, and being lined up with a spotter.
The M/T DR is a great tire but here is the issue with ANY DR or Bias Ply is driving it on the street takes life/stickiness out of it, not to mention road hazards and the heat cycles will further harden the tire. You need the grip and driving it on the street will be a big detraction.
IMO suck it up, put a set of street tires on it and swap at the track or trailer. Put them in a thick lawn bag and you can lay them anywhere in the back. I toss the rears in the rear seat area and fronts in the hatch as they are skinnies.
For your target weight, this car should be GUTTED. If not, then I do not know how your getting to that #.
****
As for my exp on Slicks Vs DR on M6's is that the slick is the best choice. The ONLY DR worked with the M/T and thats with a proper burnout, and being lined up with a spotter.
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03-05-2010, 11:13 AM
#8
I talked to Tick. Their black T/A isn't a Radial car, it runs a slick. It used to have a Radial on it but it was an A4 at that point.
They used to have a 3800 lb, mid 10-sec 6speed car on a Radial, but they said it took a lot of tuning to get it to hook right, as you'd expect.
They used to have a 3800 lb, mid 10-sec 6speed car on a Radial, but they said it took a lot of tuning to get it to hook right, as you'd expect.
03-05-2010, 11:29 AM
#9
I talked to Tick. Their black T/A isn't a Radial car, it runs a slick. It used to have a Radial on it but it was an A4 at that point.
They used to have a 3800 lb, mid 10-sec 6speed car on a Radial, but they said it took a lot of tuning to get it to hook right, as you'd expect.
They used to have a 3800 lb, mid 10-sec 6speed car on a Radial, but they said it took a lot of tuning to get it to hook right, as you'd expect.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/eastern-m...ay-new-pb.html
Feel free to check out, I actually did all that I planned on in the future and now I hope to get up there and run the car soon!
03-05-2010, 11:43 AM
#10
Tires Tires Tires... I just want opinions on tires, the rest has been researched to death and taken care of and is already installed on/in the car.
03-05-2010, 12:32 PM
#12
To make a M6 Car "work" it needs to be very adjustible and light, if you go with that in mind. Try the M/T 28" tall Drag Radial. IF you have difficulties or your runs are hit/miss, then sell it and buy slicks (you could compromise on ET Streets vs ET Drags).
This is coming from experience.
I predict in this path you will have runs that are great and others where you blow the tire off. It all depends if you NEED to be consistant or just looking to put up a time.
This is coming from experience.
I predict in this path you will have runs that are great and others where you blow the tire off. It all depends if you NEED to be consistant or just looking to put up a time.
03-06-2010, 02:02 PM
#13
hey man, our builds are VERY similar with similar goals. I will tell you after street driving the ET Streets will NOT work very well. My car gets driven probably 250 miles per month, and the tires after 3 months of driving are WORTHLESS at the track. I would buy another set of rear wheels with a 28x10.5S, and get some sportsmans or something to get decent life on a real street tire.
Last edited by Wicked94Z; 03-06-2010 at 02:08 PM.
03-08-2010, 11:18 AM
#15
You'd be best off with a 28x11.5 or 12.5 ET street, if you are going to drive the 20 miles and back, and M/t does make theh sportsman fronts still, friend of mine just bought a set 2 weeks ago.
The regular drag radial, I think you'll be pulling your hair out with the stick setup, especially if your track prep isn't 100% all the time.
The regular drag radial, I think you'll be pulling your hair out with the stick setup, especially if your track prep isn't 100% all the time.
03-08-2010, 11:27 AM
#19
Been there, with several people I know. Now our track prep isn't great, but it's FAR from terrible.. and I couldn't get a SINGLE car to work with a stick on a radial tire like we did once the guys just went to a strait slick. Even the ET street is a better way to go then a radial with a stick car is. 90% of people out there don't have the time or the patience to try to get that to work, so I just tell people to stay away from the radial unless you have an auto car, and that saves so many headaches it's not even funny.
03-08-2010, 11:31 AM
#20
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Yes, it made for a nightmare tuning the suspension on a marginal track. I just ended up tossing an ET street bias ply tire on the car and made life easier.
As for your 28x12.5 question, I run a 28x10.5 ET drag, which should be similiar in size. We had to trim the rear bumper cover along with the metal underneath. The wheel well was already BFH'd pretty severely due to me previously running a 325 drag radial. You will probably need to hammer a bit.
As for your 28x12.5 question, I run a 28x10.5 ET drag, which should be similiar in size. We had to trim the rear bumper cover along with the metal underneath. The wheel well was already BFH'd pretty severely due to me previously running a 325 drag radial. You will probably need to hammer a bit.