birdmaro

iTrader: (45)

Okay, i've read every thread that hard the word "excitor" in it and determined that it is a very common problem and the solutions are pretty much
1) grab a pigtail (universal gm pigtail) from a dealer or Pep Boys
2) order it off of ebay

Now my personal question is...how far up are you guys splicing in the new pigtail?

also...there should probably be some sort of mention of charging problems in the sticky...just saying.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I simply spliced mine 1 inch from where it broke. Use butt connectors, DO NOT SOLDER it. Use the butt connectors that have heat shrink on them so moisture stays out.

And the ebay one is a great piece.

.

birdmaro

iTrader: (45)

^word. i ordered a few of them (just in case kinda thing).

i couldn't possibly think of HOW to solder...from the bottom up with molten solder in my eye!

how long have you done urs for? (i saw ur post a couple years back)...any issues? i did a quick temp fix considering i have work in a few hours (using a universal pigtail) until the ebay pieces come...

bboyferal

iTrader: (9)

Please, do something GM didn't.

Make sure you add length to the original length of the exciter wire, some slack. The way they come factory, they almost beg to be ripped off at the pigtail.

4WOFURY

iTrader: (2)

why not solder it? just out of curiosity

Swedez28

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, what he said! I soldered mine and its fine no problems!

birdmaro

iTrader: (45)

i always use butt connectors...idk...never like soldering wires that move around alot....seems like its better left to circuit boards.

the pigtail off of ebay comes with 18" of wire...when that comes in i'll be trying to splice as far up the harness as possible.

soldered connections DO break...and mine is an example...i pulled the soldered splice apart with very little pressure.

on another note...i was seeing 12.7-13.0 volts at my capacitor before doing the "excitor mod"...and am now seeing 13.9-14.0 volts. there is also very little voltage fluctuation...much more steady.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

If your asking about mine, its been perfect since I did mine. I think I may have added another 6 inches of extra wire in there.

I simply bought 12" of new wire, then spliced it in. So I used 2 butt connectors. I spliced about 1 inch from the break point, then ran about 6 inches of the new wire in and spliced in my plug end.

Its fine.

.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

A friend of mine soldered his and it didn't work. He cut it out, spliced it with butt connectors and it worked.

Strange, yes. So I just used butt connectors and I tell people to do the same.

And its WAY easier and quick with butt connectors......soldering is 100% unnecessary for this type of repair.

.

birdmaro

iTrader: (45)

i had soldered connectors (and a resistor soldered inline as well) when i bought the car. the soldered connections just do not work. butt connectors are MUCH stronger, provide a much better element-resistance around the connector AND will allow you to make alterations in the future if need be.

O2Form

Proper way to join two bare wires is to interlace the bare wires together then solder the interlace and wrap with good electrical tape. Nothing will be better than this, butt spices are ok if properly lubed and protected. If you use butt splices be sure to lube the wire with a silicone based lubricant before inserting the wire and then use the proper staking tool. Stake the splice OPPOSITE side from the splt inside the metal jacket. Test the splice after staking by pulling HARD, if the wire stays in you can then apply a small amount of rtv sealant to each end of the butt splice. You are now good to go. Good Luck

By the way the factory ONLY uses the interlace method to join two wires...never butt splces......

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

My excitor wire was just butt connected, then I used a mini torch to shrink it sealed. No lube. Its been good for like 4 years now.

I also recently fixed both front blinker sockets with the same butt connectors, no lube, they're all doing good.

.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

If you are solder-inhibited, the best butt connectors I have found are from NAPA: http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...925_0063685264

Part number 785925 if the link is not allowed. It is a butt connector that has solder included, adhesive shrink wrap tubing, everything you need.
"Heavy Duty, Transparent, Adhesive Heat Shrink Tubing On A Solder Coated Terminal, Insert Wires - Crimp & Heat w/ Butane Torch Or Heat Gun, Solder Provides Certain Mechanical & Electrical Connection; Shrink Tubing Locks Out Contaminants & Corrosion While Providing The Sealed, Fully Insulated Connection Required By Many Of Todays Vehicle Electrical & Electronic Systems."
The one I listed is for 16-14AWG, but it comes in various sizes from 10 gauge to 24 gauge.

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

Are you serious? Butt connectors are weak. My guess is you don't know how to solder. There is a reason GM soldered all their wire joints. Butt connectors may be easier, but they are not better.

O2Form

I would use the electrical lube(same stuff used on the spark plug boots) when using the butt splices only because this adds ALOT of protection to the copper wire from any moisture.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

I agree. It's called dielectric grease, and if you use that, combined with adhesive-lined shrink tubing, the connection will last a very long time.

O2Form

LOl on the dielectric grease<I didn't say this cause i figured none of you would know what it was.....

What it actually does is coat the wire stopping moisture from getting into the copper and even though the butt connector is plated it can corrode too over time.
I installed driving lights on my jeep a few years ago and used quite a few butt splices not the heat shrink type. I just used the electrical grease and a good crimping tool and most of these connections are out near the bumper i the weather and still havn;t had any trouble. GREASE YER JOINTS!

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

it's a camaro, you should be using wire nuts



friend had bought a mid 80's camaro with a 383, the motor had some nut but the car was just a total p.o.s. As he was showing it he mentioned the car didn't like to turn off for about 5-10 seconds after turning the ignition off and removing the key. looking under the hood there were about 5 or more wiring connections, to the distributor, using orange and yellow wire nuts and a decent amount of wire was brown household extension wire.
seriously, the proper way to do any wiring is with solder and some sort of heat shrink tubing. Soldering is always stronger than a a crimp connection providing it's done correctly and will not have corrosion problems like a crimp connection can. For what you're doing though, crimp connections would be fine just make sure you have a decent crimp tool.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

Now I'm being stereotyped!
No, it's just common sense. My brother was complaining about his boat trailer lights, and I found a situation similar to 1 FMF's picture. I replaced all the wiring, soldered, greased and shrink-tubed everything, no more problems. Do it right, do it once.

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

so i have a question...how do you go about not breaking the excitor wire from the start? can you reach around the back of the alternator and undo it before you even take the alternator off?

also are you guys saying to buy any pigtail or a specific pigtail, or is the general idea of this thread that if you swap your alternator you should add in a 6" length of wire to the pigtail?